[password] kudzuu1114
[position] 08 38.85s 115 27.45e
[weather]1011.6hPa 90F Wind N2-4kts
[speed] 2.3 motoring
[heading] 92T
[status]Motoring back from Bali to Lombok across the Selat Lombok against a 5kt current... There's been no wind to help us and the south setting current is a constant here regardless of what the tides might be doing. We're grateful not to be fighting the 8 kts that sometimes flows through here! Egad, I've just measured our progress and discovered that we've made only 18 miles over the ground in the five and a half hours since departing Bali Marina this morning at Benoa Harbour. We knew this would be the case, and have just made the turn over the top of Lembongan Island which should soon put us in favourable current for the balance of the trip to Gili Gede. Still, and I haven't told His Robbiness this yet, I don't see us anchoring before dusk. Dusk if we're lucky. So many of you have asked, so I will report here that Robbie survived the dental work at Bali 911 Dental Clinic in Denpasar and he was pleased with the clinic, the professionals and their services. How they can do so much work for USD$200 is beyond me, but they run a nice, clean, organized operation and they are busy busy busy working on Australians who come to Bali with dental tourism on the itinerary. On Wednesday we hired a car and young driver and made our way up into the mountains to the village of Ubud, the arts capital of Bali, and to nearby Batuan, particularly known for its paintings. 24 year old Tio drove expertly, weaving in and out among the motor scooters, autos and pedestrians, delivering us first to a huge Denpasar batik factory where one can stop on the huge covered tile portico at the entrance and watch the artists, all ladies as far as I could see, drawing their wax resist designs on new fabric, then enter the store to admire and purchase the finished product. I was happy to pick up a few new sarongs in soft blues, greens, purples, my tropical garment of choice ever since we were in Mexico, and I am now at liberty to discard a few old ones that are reduced to tatters from constant use and catching on the refrigerator door. The village of Batuan is similar in character to Mata Ortiz, the famous arts community in Chihuahua, Mexico, where everyone is an accomplished potter, but the artists in Batuan are painters all. Dutch painter Arie Smit spent time in Batuan in the 1930s and encouraged the gifted local painters. even teaching youngsters to paint in a simple naive style that has become known as the Young Artists School. We purchased an acrylic on canvas, "Rice Harvest," by I Ketut Soki, now in his eighties, reputed to be the most accomplished of Smit's original young artists. Finally, something to hang on the only wall in the boat, the space above the dining settee. It's been vacant now for six years. About time. As soon as we have Internet access, I'll show you a photo which, though it doesn't do the painting justice, gives a glimpse of the interesting, colorful, intricate style. We visited at least eight galleries, several in Batuan and a few in Ubud itself (Oooo boood). Each village has several schools of painting with unique styles, Ubud artists produce jewelry and sculpture in addition to paintings, and we saw some fantastic art, resisting additional purchases only by applying a healthy measure of disciplined restraint. Luncheon at Swept Away riverside restaurant tucked in a scenic mountain valley at The Samaya Resort was leisurely and delicious - next time I make satay I'm going to skewer them with lemongrass stems, what a great idea. The Sacred Monkey Forest was another obligatory and highly amusing stop near Ubud and I regret not having allowed the monkeys to climb on me. I was so tempted, decided to act like an adult and keep back from the monkeys, and I've been sorry ever since. Next time I see wild monkeys who are accustomed to humans I'm going to have fun. Don't even bother to lecture me, it will fall upon deaf ears. IAnd if I ever return to southern Bali I shall make straight for Batuan and Ubud, hole up in a mountainside villa or boutique hotel with fresh air and cool breezes, eat great Indonesian food, buy more paintings and give Denpasar a pass. Will reunite tomorrow with Sail Indonesia Rally friends in Medana Bay. Bev.
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