[password] pilot25041
[position] 14 96.9s 147 63.6w
[status] Tuesday (FP time) ..... as we got nearer to Rangiroa on Sunday evening the clouds mostly cleared and we had a lovely starry night, the moon also making an occasional appearance. We motored up the western end and along the top of the atoll (which is the second biggest in the world at 40miles long & 17 wide) and past the first entrance Passe de Avatoru which is quite narrow and tricky, however, it was clearly marked and the leading lights coincided exactly with where we were on the chart plotter. Another 5miles later and we could see the wider entrance Passe de Tiputa with a clear 'red' port hand marker, however, despite being exactly on 'track' on the chart plotter no leading lights were visible, we could make out a southerly cardinal flashing away inside the reef entrance and not far off where the leading lights should have been showing, so we entered with caution and the engines on idle as the 'flood' tide carried us in at 3.5kts on a flat sea. The information on
Charlie's Charts identifies overfalls and rip currents through these passes when the tide runs, but we had a smooth passage. Once inside we headed on towards the southerly cardinal to go around an island just inside the entrance, then headed back up to the anchorage where we could see 10 or so other yachts already settled for the night.

The 205nm passage had taken us about 32hrs, so a cold beer was consumed before turning in!

Monday dawned with a clear sky and virtual millpond sea, we are surrounded by hundreds of different fish, which gave us a great early snorkelling opportunity, we then ventured ashore to locate the gendarmerie and check in, it is no longer located just past the Kia Ora Hotel, and is now close to the first pass into the lagoon. So we walked back down to the main wharf area, spoke to some of the dive shops about the 'drift snorkelling' through the pass (6000FP - 80$NZ each and done in the morning when the tide is flowing in, for that you get 3 drifts and a snorkelling opportunity) then got some fresh bread for lunch and returned aboard. Early afternoon a party set off to find the gendarmerie and book us in, a bit of an epic dinghy ride later to the other side of the airport and near the western most pass, mission was accomplished. A bit more snorkelling then followed until it was time for sundowners and put the oven on as we cooked roast chicken for dinner. Bizarrely and comp
letely against the norm for this area we had no wind all day, which meant the temperatures were on the rather hot side. Overnight the wind did get up, so Ruth dug Barry in the ribs at stupid o'clock to turn the wind generator off ...... as it was keeping her awake, and something of a repeat of similar occasions on our yacht Summer Wine!

This morning Allan ventured ashore first thing to do his drift snorkelling (a long time wish list item of his), but the dive shop wasn't open, so the 3 amigos set off in the dinghy, against a building wind and white caps to get to the pass. A rather wet and bumpy ride later Steve stayed on the dinghy Allan & Barry went over the side and drifted through the pass. Quite spectacular fish life and coral could be seen as we drifted at probably 3kts back into the lagoon, back outside again we went to repeat the operation, and then a 3rd time, this time Steve & Barry swopping roles as safety man in the dinghy. The only downside was Barry's underwater camera had a flat battery ........ despite changing it for one from his 'charger' before departing, the bonus being we saved ourselves some money and will go again another day with a 'charged' camera battery!

We're currently not sure how long we'll stay here or where else in the lagoon we'll explore before departing elsewhere.

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