[password] zara1010
[status]
:position 22 34.383s 167 31.080e
We have just moved deeper in to Baie de Ugo and are now anchored off the Meridian resort, the most expensive in New Cal. So we moved not because we wanted to watch the rich and possibly famous but because last night at anchor was like going down wind in 20 kn with full sails up, things we didn't know could move were making noises and we felt quite queasy - we didn't really sleep with the torrential rain, sheet lightening and hectic wind, plus the necessity of bracing even lying in bed.
This morning the sun was out to help us navigate the reefs, and it was calm and lovely, even pumped up the paddleboard and explored the bay, looking through crystal water to the anemones and corals,spotting blue lipped giant clams, floating past dainty clouds of damsels and several turtle. All changed now with clouds and strong winds, and tonight there's another front to come through but tucked in behind the coral here all is much calmer.
[status]
:position 22 34.164s 167 31.171e
:date 08/08/2013
Visited the main town of Vao for a few provisions, you anchor in front of an incongruous shrine, a silver sprayed kitch Jesus benevolently looking down from his pillar, surrounded by a wall of wonderfully carved wooden poles, the traditional guardians for the people of these islands. Then we had an interesting time working our way out of the lagoon through uncharted coral strewn waters, luckily the sun was lighting the water so it was easy to see, then the afternoon clouded over as we beat north to an anchorage protected from the westerly that is forecast. Little agile dolphins, possibly Long Snouted Spinner Dolphins, entertained us and schools of fish lit the surface, glinting as they leapt from the jaws of the predators below. It was a good sail, and we arrived in the tiny bay of Ugo just before the squall cloud reached us.
[status]
:position 22 41.189s 167 30.360e
:date 07/08/2013
It was a calm and sunny day and we could at last explore the lagoon, first though we'd heard that the small Islot Moro, just 3nm away was a breeding place for Sea Kraits - banded sea snakes with a poisonous bite - and huge spiders, we had to see. We dinghied over and started the search, nothing, then nothing, then I saw one, then we suddenly saw plenty of them. Thank goodness we hadn't scrambled up the dark earth bank at the back of the beach thinking of spiders, as there were dozens of gold and brown shiny snakes soaking up the sunshine and heat. The search for spiders was less successful, and we had to get back so we could move Roxi. That afternoon we explored by dinghy again, this time up a narrow shallow pass into Baie d'Upi, an almost enclosed lagoon of deep blue water with wonderful silver and grey limestone formations embossed with coral prints and topped with masses of vegetation, incredible that trees can grow on what looks like decorative cement.
[status]
:position 22 39.616s 167 26.460e
:date 05/08/2013
We're in Isle de Pins and for those of you who read our updates, I apologise for their lack of interest and regularity, but the weather has been unusually unseasonally untropical, just day after day of grey, back to that UK feeling of living in a tupperware box with the lid on. No good at all for trying to work your way through coral strewn waters and explore the reefs and bays as the charts all have warnings saying don't rely on them as it is insufficiently surveyed, we need to use eyeball navigation, and that's not possible in the flat grey light. So there's not much to tell. The last sail we had was chilly, wet - and fast, difficult to see the pass through the reef and no good at all for whale spotting with all the waves and wind blown spray, it is the season the humpbacks are here with their babies - we're still hoping to see one.
We did get to Isle de Pins though and it is very lovely, quite different from the main island of New Caledonia, far less developed, and it's great weather for walking. We hiked to the peak, N'ga and could see almost the entire island. We stood there and planned which bays to visit, where would be a great dinghy trip, and where would be wonderful to paddleboard - all of course on that morning when we wake up to the turquoise waters of the tropics.
We had another walk where I was gathering armfuls of pumice and trying to hold onto my bundle of treasures, whilst keeping my eyes peeled for the next perfect piece, I do know it floats, but somehow I tried to walk across a patch of pumice which turned out to be hiding a knee deep pool. Thank goodness no-one saw the embarrassing slip as the ground disappeared beneath my feet and I stumbled and tripped into the hole - didn't drop my precious goodies though.
We are in Baie de Kuto and the water is clear, several turtles live around here and it's lovely watching their huge heads apear and listening to them draw in a deep breath before subsiding again. We also have 'The Boys' living under our boat - a group of large aggressive ramoras - which are fun to watch when you chuck scraps over for them to gobble and squabble over.
Fingers crossed for the beautiful island blues and greens to reappear very soon.
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