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new caledonia

July 31, 2013 - 18:07
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roxi really went amazingly fast on our trip north from nz, we had a wonderful moon all the way, so bright we could read by it - actually the kindle paperwhites were amazing - almost the best thing on the boat, the other great thing was having made meals and frozen them, cooking would have been interestingly challenging during some of our hectic trip - heating was no problem at all. high dark hills materialised on the horizon as dawn on the sixth day lightened, there were no waves to help find the pass - you avoid the waves and look for the smooth areas, but for us it all looked smooth. we found the pass, sailed through and by lunch time customs had cleared us in.
new caledonia has a reputation for being expensive, and it's true a trip to the supermarket is scary, even the local market is expensive, but whilst in the city we did the cultural things; museums, botanical gardens, the tjibaou cultural centre (stunning) - all really interesting and the bus fares and entrance fees were cheap. the lagoon surrounding new caledonia has unesco heritage status and many areas are a marine reserve, so we're looking forward to exploring under the water.
it's been grey, chilly and wet since last we arrived and i wore my merino for the first five days and we still need the duvet but yesterday we managed to leave the marina under a veil of drizzle and grey and headed to a marine reserve on the outer reef which was lit from above by bright blue. wonderful to arrive, anchor in the sun and eat a perfect baguette for lunch. if proof were needed that we were in a marine reserve; we threw over a floating thermometer to test the sea temp, it was instantly assaulted by two large ramora and several snapper type fish - so glad i hadn't jumped in. then a loud exhalation announced the appearance of a huge turtle - we're still discussing which species - it had large protruding eyeballs. we sailed over the flat seas inside the reef, keeping an eye on the depth as it's not possible to see through the sea surface and spot the coral reefs when it's overcast - until we found shelter behind a tiny island which is another marine reserve. we thought it would be peaceful here out of the city, but the noise of the fish all night were enough to wake you up. another day sail across flat blue seas where we could see through to the reefs, this time surrounded by hills showing deep red mining scars amidst the green foliage and past chimneys of a processing plant adding their clouds to the sky. tonights stop is just 40nm from isle de pins, our intended destination and an idyllic spot with good walking and snorkelling.
thought we were in the middle of nowhere, but i've just been hand feeding a duck that turned up.

fiji continued

July 25, 2013 - 17:45
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we left koro island on 17 june and had a beautiful sail to ngau island. after a quick tiki tour around the reported anchorages, stopped in herald bay - a stunning day and bay. the sunset awesome. did sevu sevu at the village of sawaieke the next morning when the tide was high having now discovered that most of the villages are easiest to access at high tide. the chief was in the bath so we left our kava with his grandson! we left gnau at 5pm that day as the wind had veered to the ne and we wished to use the wind to sail down to matuku island the most sw island in the lau group.
matuku island is a very sheltered harbour being inside what must have been a crater lake. arrived through the reef soon after dawn followed in by liberation (from nelson) and later 3 other yachts all of whom had sailed from suva (2 other nzrs) who were on their way to falanga (another 100 miles or so away to the east but meant to be the best island/lagoon in the lau group). not long after we were treated to a spectacular electrical storm and torrential rain so everyone was out collecting water and washing themselves!! the other boats either stayed one night only or simply had a sleep before moving on. we ended spending nearly a week here with no other boats about as we decided that there was no hurry until the wind and swells had abated and we could have a comfortable sail. the village at the head of the harbour is very small but very hospitable. chico the mayor of the village had been with the military in sinai and was a very interesting man whose family looked after us very well. on the sunday i joined them for church and gavin came in later for lunch put on by the whole village - a wonderful experience (and gourmet delight including an enormous sea crab, taro leaves done in coconut juice and island cabbage similarly). left matuku for totoya island on the 27th june having said our goodbyes and printed off some of the photos we had taken of them all. the $39 photocopier has been a very good investment and we have yet to change the colour cartridge!!. the villagers just love seeing themselves in print and such a small thing to give them in appreciation.
arrived on the western side of totoya island after a windward sail (se 15 - 20kts) about 2pm at the recommended anchorage straight in from the reef in a very pretty bay which was surprisingly sheltered. the wind eased in the evening and we were able to enjoy the beauty of the place, once again the only boat. the next morning walked across the isthmus to the eastern side of the island (following an old railway track) intending to do sevu sevu at the village on the other side but high tide meant we could not get along the foreshore to the village. so took lots of photos for a friend in nz whose father came from here. a truly beautiful island although not really one for the cruisers as the main villagers are all inside the main lagoon inside the island which is entered on the se coast and therefore very exposed to the se winds! left totoya at 5pm to sail overnight to komo island - a beautiful night sail.
komo island is very small but has a wonderful anchorage inside the reef with turquoise waters and little coral. arrived soon after dawn and spent an amazing day here in truly tropical weather. three other yachts already here - two of whom introduced themselves. we were given a mackerel from one for dinner - yum! we have been rather lazy with our fishing on passage. only spent one night here as the wind was forecast to increase to se 25kts the next day and the position of the island is such that we expected that it would not be that sheltered (veers around the headland). left at noon to sail to lacemba or failing that, to bavatu harbour in vanua balavu (the northern lau group). unfortunately, lacemba was not a viable option as the anchorage on the western side was too exposed to the strong se wind and the visibility poor with the rain squalls, so we pushed on to bavatu harbour. and what a good choice that was.
bavatu harbour is incredibly protected and very scenic, although the charts are inaccurate and entry through the reef is therefore a visual one using the leads and markers if in place. we were welcomed in by "streetcar", a yacht from the uk, who answered the vhf when we called the royal exploring isles yacht squadron. they were looking after the place for a couple of weeks. this is a small yacht club set up by tony philps, who owns the copra plantation there. he is keen for everyone visiting to use the facilities he has set up which are quite something and is also happy for visitors to walk the various tracks he maintains around the copra plantation. this includes a small village who it seems help maintain the place in a very tidy way. his home at the top of the hill is incredible and the view well worth the short walk. we were able to view the seas around us from there which we did on the second day when it was blowing 30 - 35 kts outside the reef, while we had no wind in th e inner harbour. met kate and rory off streetcar and vaughn and sharon off "reality", an american yacht, whom we spent time over drinks at the yacht club and/or walking the tracks. on the third day we visited the villagers who were making coconut oil - a labour intensive process but fascinating to watch. took lots of photos which we will post later. left bavatu harbour on the friday to sail back to savu savu on a beautiful day with a 10kt se.
arrived in savu savu the next morning and discovered that our friends lisa and lester on "obsession" (whangarie) were also there. we had been hoping to catch up with them as we met them originally in samoa on our last cruise in 2010 and ended up then going onto wallis island with them. it was a great evneing and ended up all having a chinese meal at our favorite chinese restaurant.had a great couple of days catching up and joined them on their last night anchored off cousteaus' resort. we returned to savu savu the next morning to finish re-provisioning. unfortunately the weather was not the best (rain on and off) and by the end of the week we decided to leave fiji and head north to wallis island, for some better weather hopefully. the weather window looked reasonable although wet and so the decision was made and we left savu savu on 12 july early afternoon after clearing customs.

Namuka-I-Lau

July 22, 2013 - 16:08
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11/7/2013 we have now left fulaga and are now gradually, and i say gradually, making our way back to savu savu. our first big trip out of fulaga was 20 miles up to namuka-i-lau. trolled two lures all the way but no fish!! this is a very pretty anchorage with a nice sandy bay to anchor in. only enough room here for four boats, maybe five at the most. walked across to the village to do sevu sevu.
the walk was a good hour each way and the track quite overgrown.
good school which is australian aid funded.

Fulaga, Southern Lau

July 22, 2013 - 16:07
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22/6/2013 anchored in fulaga in the southern lau along with 22 other boats!!!! this is certainly a lovely and very safe anchorage. white sandy beaches, swaying palm trees and clear blue water.
a well supplied boat is essential as there is no local store or market to visit. trading is certainly different here. we 'trade' 1,2,3 (or however many) cigarettes for crab, lobster, bananas etc. they also love magazines, playing cards, makeup, nail polish, scarves, medical supplies (band aids, etc) had a few good dives here with excellent clarity.
the trip to the dive sites, which are on the outside of the reef, have to be carefully planned and thought about. it is important to go out the pass on the incoming tide, dive and then head back inside the reef. it is vital not to get the tide too low as there is a lot of water rushing out a small pass and the pressure waves get rather big!! a rather scary looking entrance. water a bit cooler and this is the first time jock has had to wear a wet suit in fiji!!!!

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