Navara
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Navara
Synopsis
Navara
Three Sixty Blue
Three Sixty Blue
Sun Nov 6 7:40 2016 NZDT
GPS: 35 50.214S 174 28.133E
Run: 314.2nm (568.7km)
Avg: 6.5knts
24hr: 155.1nm
Avg: 6.5knts
24hr: 155.1nm
We arrived at Marsden Cove (Whangerei), New Zealand last night at 9:30pm. All is well on board and we're happy to be here after a challenging passage!
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Fri Nov 4 7:03 2016 NZDT
Speed: 7 knts
knts GPS: 31 23s 175 34e
Run: 126.7nm (229.3km)
Avg: 5.4knts
24hr: 128.6nm
Avg: 5.4knts
24hr: 128.6nm
Weather: 18 knts from SSW 15% cloud cover seas 1.5m from SSW baro 1012
Rough day yesterday transiting the low's embedded depression. We had very confused 3m seas, winds 30 gusting to over 40. Much better now and we think we have the barn door in sight.
Thu Nov 3 7:24 2016 NZDT
Speed: 10-12 knts
knts GPS: 29 35s 175 58e
Run: 187.9nm (340.1km)
Avg: 7.8knts
24hr: 187.5nm
Avg: 7.8knts
24hr: 187.5nm
Weather: 30 knts from NW 100% cloud cover seas 3m from NW baro 1008
Despite our efforts to stay north and west of approaching low, we seem to have caught up to it. We are wondering when and where we'll reach the lighter west and southwest winds? All is well on board but we'd rather be motor caravaning at this point!
Wed Nov 2 7:21 2016 NZDT
Speed: 6 knts
knts GPS: 27 16s 177 35e
Run: 155.5nm (281.5km)
Avg: 6.6knts
24hr: 157.8nm
Avg: 6.6knts
24hr: 157.8nm
Weather: 5 knts from NNE 20% cloud cover seas 1.5m from SSE baro 1017
We are now motor sailing after winds backed and nearly died during the night. All is well onboard. It's about time to switch to long pants and long sleeve shirts at night! 536 miles remaining to Marsden Cove.
Tue Nov 1 7:42 2016 NZDT
Speed: 7.5 knts
knts GPS: 25 09s 178 26e
Run: 173.9nm (314.8km)
Avg: 7.2knts
24hr: 172.5nm
Avg: 7.2knts
24hr: 172.5nm
Weather: 18 knts from SSE 20% cloud cover seas 1.5m from SSE baro 1014
Laptop charging crisis averted! Surgery and some soldering fixed damaged plug. All is well on board. We decided to bypass Minerva Reef on this passage and are now heading for Marsden Cove, New Zealand. ETA sometime Saturday 5, October.
Mon Oct 31 7:30 2016 NZDT
Speed: 7 knts
knts GPS: 22 47s 179 22e
Run: 156.7nm (283.6km)
Avg: 6.5knts
24hr: 157nm
Avg: 6.5knts
24hr: 157nm
Weather: 18 knts from ESE 1000% cloud cover seas 1.5m from SSE baro 1011
105 miles NW of Minerva Reef. All is well on board except laptop PC charger has failed. we will soon loose email capability and have to rely on SSB Vox for position reporting and WX info. Minerva continues to be an upwind beat so we're considering continuing straight to NZ. ETA would be Saturdau the 5th. What are David's thoughts about timing of passing fronts we'll encounter?
Sun Oct 30 7:33 2016 NZDT
Speed: 6.5 knts
knts GPS: 20 31s 179 25e
Run: 160.9nm (291.2km)
Avg: 6.8knts
24hr: 162.3nm
Avg: 6.8knts
24hr: 162.3nm
Weather: 18-22 knts from SE 70% cloud cover seas 1.5m from SSE baro 1013
Sailing from Savusavu to Minerva Reef. "Noserly" winds, short period, lumpy seas. All is well on board.
Sat Oct 29 7:45 2016 NZDT
Speed: 6.5 knts
knts GPS: 18 12s 179 40e
Run: 181.8nm (329.1km)
Avg: 7.6knts
24hr: 181.5nm
Avg: 7.6knts
24hr: 181.5nm
Weather: 14 knts from SE 100% cloud cover baro 1012
Sailing from Savusavu to Minerva Reef working our way to windward through the inconveniently-placed islands of the Koro Sea. All is well on board.
Fri Oct 28 7:42 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 46.600S 179 179.19.725E
Departing Savusavu for Minerva Reef this morning. Should arrive there on the morning of Monday, October 31st, just in time for a Halloween party. I think we'll dress as lobsters. We'll play there for a few days while looking for a good WX window for the remainder of the trip back to NZ. [Wind 7 knots form ESE, 95% cloud cover, barometer 1011, humidity 78%]
Thu Oct 27 8:08 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 46.600S 179 179.19.725E
Moored in Savusavu. Will probably leave tomorrow for Minerva or perhaps straight to NZ. [Wind 9 knots from SE, 70% cloud cover Barometer 1012]
Wed Oct 26 7:04 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 46.600S 179 179.19.725E
Run: 175.9nm (318.4km)
Avg: 7.5knts
24hr: 179.1nm
Avg: 7.5knts
24hr: 179.1nm
Moored in Savusavu, Fiji. Gusty winds and rains showers began in the night. [Wind 15-20 from SE, 100% cloud cover, barometer 1014, humidity 84%]
Tue Oct 25 7:30 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 46.600S 179 19.726E
Run: 34.6nm (62.6km)
Moored in Savusavu, Fiji. Pre-passage provisioning and re-fueling planned for today. Still looking at a Thursday or Friday departure for NZ via Minerva Reef. [Wind 6 knots from SE, 95% cloud cover, barometer 1013, humidity 78%]
Mon Oct 24 7:02 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 45.018S 179 51.096E
Run: 2.4nm (4.3km)
Anchored at Dakuniba Bay, Vanu Levu, Fiji. [Wind calm, 10% cloud cover, barometer 1011, humidity 84%]
Sat Oct 22 7:09 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 45.027S 179 53.281E
Moored in Viani Bay, Vanua Levu, Fiji. [Wind 10 knots from SE, 95% cloud cover, barometer 1012, humidity 84%]
Fri Oct 21 7:58 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 45.027S 179 53.281E
Moored at Viani Bay. [Wind 5 knots from SW, 80% cloud cover, barometer 1012, humidity 85%]
Thu Oct 20 7:10 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 45.027S 179 53.281E
Run: 12.7nm (23km)
Moored in beautiful Viani Bay on Vanua Levu, Fiji. [Wind calm, 5% cloud cover, barometer 1011, humidity 89%]
Wed Oct 19 7:48 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 56.015S 179 54.005E
Moored at Paradise Resort, Taveuni Island, Fiji. Spectacular morning! [Wind 10-12 knots from SE, 10% cloud cover, barometer 1012, humidity 84%]
Tue Oct 18 7:26 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 56.015S 179 54.005E
Moored at Paradise Resort, Taveuni, Fiji. Like rain now falling after periods of heavy rain through the night. [Wind 5 knots from NE, 100% cloud cover, barometer 1015, 84% humidity]
Mon Oct 17 7:23 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 56.015S 179 54.005E
Run: 54.8nm (99.2km)
Moored at the Paradise Resort on Taveuni Island, Fiji after a salty, windward bash from Namena yesterday. [Wind 8-10 knots from ESE, 98% cloud cover, barometer 1014, 78% humidity]
Sat Oct 15 7:06 2016 NZDT
GPS: 17 06.772S 179 05.563E
Anchored at Namena Island, Fiji. Another great dive yesterday at "Grand Central". All is well on board. [Wind 5 knots from NE, 5% cloud cover, barometer 1013, humidity 85%]
Fri Oct 14 6:49 2016 NZDT
GPS: 17 06.772S 179 05.563E
Run: 1nm (1.8km)
Anchored at Namena Island in Fiji. Perfect night here last night...the anchorage all to ourselves, smooth sea, gentle warm breeze with low humidity and a bright moon overhead. It doesn't get much better. [Wind 5-7 knots from east, 10% cloud cover, barometer 1012, humidity 83%]
Thu Oct 13 7:03 2016 NZDT
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 17 06s 179 06e
Run: 27nm (48.9km)
Weather: 10 knts from SE 5% cloud cover baro 1012
Anchored at Namena Island.
Wed Oct 12 7:40 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 46.600S 179 19.726E
Run: 175.9nm (318.4km)
Avg: 7.3knts
24hr: 174.5nm
Avg: 7.3knts
24hr: 174.5nm
Moored in Savusavu. [Wind 4 knots from ESE, 100% cloud cover, barometer 1012, humidity 81%]
Tue Oct 11 7:29 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 46.600S 179 179.19.725E
Moored in Savusavu. Heavy rain began here late afternoon yesterday. By 9pm wind had shifted from NE to west and skies began to clear. [Wind calm, 95% cloud cover, barometer 1008, humidity 85%]
Mon Oct 10 7:18 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 46.600S 179 179.19.725E
Run: 175.6nm (317.8km)
Avg: 3.7knts
24hr: 88.7nm
Avg: 3.7knts
24hr: 88.7nm
Moored in Savusavu. Had a few showers yesterday but mostly dry night. [Wind 5-10 from NE, 100 cloud cover, barometer 1008, humidity 81%]
Sat Oct 8 7:48 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 46.60S 179 20E
Run: 175.6nm (317.8km)
Avg: 7.3knts
24hr: 175.3nm
Avg: 7.3knts
24hr: 175.3nm
Moored in Savusavu waiting until the forecast tropical depression passes. [Wind 15 knots from SE, 90% cloud cover, barometer 1015]
Fri Oct 7 7:45 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 46.600S 179 179.19.725E
Run: 175.9nm (318.4km)
Avg: 3.6knts
24hr: 87.6nm
Avg: 3.6knts
24hr: 87.6nm
Moored in Savusavu, Fiji. Did some very nice dives yesterday at Namena Island Preserve. [Wind calm, 5% cloud cover, barometer 1017, humidity 85%]
Wed Oct 5 7:34 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 46.592S 179 19.726E
Run: 34.9nm (63.2km)
Moored in Savusavu, Fiji. All is well on board after an easy passage from Tonga. [Wind calm, 60% cloud cover, barometer 1013, 84% humidity]
Tue Oct 4 7:36 2016 NZDT
Speed: 6 knts
knts GPS: 17 09s 179 41e
Run: 165.1nm (298.8km)
Avg: 6.8knts
24hr: 162.7nm
Avg: 6.8knts
24hr: 162.7nm
Weather: 7 knts from E 10% cloud cover baro 1012
Motor sailing in light air. 37 miles from Savasavu. All is well on board.
Mon Oct 3 7:15 2016 NZDT
Speed: 6 knts
knts GPS: 18 33s 178 17w
Run: 145.7nm (263.7km)
Avg: 6.1knts
24hr: 147.5nm
Avg: 6.1knts
24hr: 147.5nm
Weather: 9 knts from SE 10% cloud cover baro 1013
En Route fron Ha'apai, Tonga to Savusavu, Fiji. Approaching Oneata Passage in southern Lau Group. Land in sight! Lost our wind around midnight so motorsailing now. Wind starting to increase...hope to sail soon. All is well on board.
Sun Oct 2 7:33 2016 NZDT
Speed: 6 knts
knts GPS: 19 06s 176 08w
Run: 123.7nm (223.9km)
Avg: 2.6knts
24hr: 61.8nm
Avg: 2.6knts
24hr: 61.8nm
Weather: 12 knts from SE 40% cloud cover baro 1015
About 300 miles from Savusavu. All is well onboard
Fri Sep 30 7:29 2016 NZDT
GPS: 19 50.46S 174 24.35W
Run: 12.8nm (23.2km)
Anchored at Uoleva Island, Ha'apai Tonga. Leaving tomorrow for Savusavu Fiji. A weather update from David would be greatly appreciated. [Wind 3 knots from NE, 40% cloud cover, barometer 1013, humidity 88% (we are breathing through gills)]
Thu Sep 29 6:41 2016 NZDT
GPS: 20 01S 174 28W
Anchored at Limu Island, Ha'apai Tonga. Spectacular dislay yesterday of Mammatus clouds beneath a passing T-storm anvil. I've seen this just once before, in Texas, beneath a storm that produced damaging tornados. This one certainly got our attention! [Wind 3 knots from E, 20% cloud cover, barometer 1011]
Mammatus clouds in passing thunder storm
Wed Sep 28 7:10 2016 NZDT
GPS: 20 01S 174 28W
Run: 28.4nm (51.4km)
Anchored at Limu Island in Ha'apai, Tonga. [Wind 10 knots from WNW, 5% cloud cover, barometer 1010, humidity 89%...yuck..]
Tue Sep 27 7:27 2016 NZDT
GPS: 20 17S 174 48W
Anchored at Nomuka Iki Island in Tonga. We are looking at leaving Pangai for Savu Savu, Fiji on Saturday. We see light SE winds for the 3 day passage arriving midday on Tuesday. What are David's thoughts?
[Wind 3 knots from NNW, 60% cloud cover, barometer 1012]
Mon Sep 26 7:22 2016 NZDT
GPS: 20 17S 174 48W
Anchored at Nomuka Iki Island in Tonga. Spectacular day here yesterday with more clear skies and light winds this morning.
[5 knots from E, 5% cloud cover, barometer 1014]
Sat Sep 24 6:29 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 17S 174 48W
Run: 36nm (65.2km)
Anchored at Nomuka Iki Island. More whale swimming planning for today with the folks from Whale Discoveries.
[Wind 1 knot from SE, 0% cloud cover, barometer 1013]
Fri Sep 23 4:40 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 52S 174 28W
Run: 15.8nm (28.6km)
Anchored off Luangahu Island in Ha'apai, Tonga.
[Wind 7 knots from SW, 0% cloud cover, barometer 1011]
Thu Sep 22 6:51 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 43S 174 17W
Anchored off Nukunamo Island in Ha'apai, Tonga. Word of our import permit extension woes is spreading through the cruising community and the Tongan business owners that we've patronized are very upset. Media attention is likely. Small correction to yesterday's post...It is the Ministry of Revenue and Customs that handles temporary import permits. The Ministry of Tourism has now been advised of the situation.
[Wind 5 knots from WNW, 20% cloud cover, barometer 1011]
Wed Sep 21 5:54 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 43S 174 17W
Run: 69.8nm (126.3km)
Anchored off Nukunamo Island in Ha'apai, Tonga. Here is some important information for cruisers planning to spend a season in Tonga. Temporary import permit extensions beyond the original 4 month period are no longer being given. The following is an email we received from the CEO of the Ministry of Revenue and Customs when we requested just a 2 month extension.
Dear Mark,
Thank you for your responding to the email.
Please note that we don’t allow Yachts to remain in Tonga for 12 Months period. The hurricane season here in Tonga starts in October. The weather is amble now for sailing if you are intending to sail to NZ, waiting until November is more vulnerable for you.
Secondly, the Ministry’s concern for pleasure Craft is the transportation of drugs and doing illegal businesses here in Tonga during the Whale Watching Season. This has caused us to discourage yachts and pleasure craft to stay in Tonga longer than 4 months.
We want to encourage and promote our tourist industry but not the yachts as it doesn’t have much impact on our economy.
Therefore am only granted you an extension of one month, which implied that you will be legally permitted to remain in Tonga until the 24th of October.
Malo ‘Aupito,
It appears that, as sailors, we are suspect for engaging in illegal activities and, despite all that we've spent here, don't contribute enough to Tonga's tourism economy. At present, we are not feeling very welcome here!
[Wind 4 knots from SE, 90% cloud cover, barometer 1013]
Fri Sep 9 5:26 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 43S 174 08W
Run: 6.6nm (11.9km)
Anchored in the Blue Lagoon near Hunga Island, Vava'u Tonga. Wind 6 knots from E, 10% cloud cover, barometer 1013.
Thu Sep 8 5:52 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 42S 174 02W
Run: 4nm (7.2km)
Anchored at Port Maurelle. Wind 6 knots from E, 10% cloud cover, barometer 1016.
Tue Sep 6 6:54 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 40S 173 59W
Run: 8.4nm (15.2km)
In Neiafu Harbour, Vava'u Tonga. Wind 10-12 from ESE, 60% cloud cover, barometer 1017
Mon Sep 5 5:37 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 43S 174 06W
Run: 11nm (19.9km)
Anchored at Vaka'eitu Island in Vava'u, Tonga. Winds were fresh from SE over the weekend but now easing and backing a bit. Wind 10-14 knots from E, 60% cloud cover, barometer 1017.
Fri Sep 2 5:43 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 42S 173 56W
Run: 5.6nm (10.1km)
Anchored at Kenutu Island in Vava'u, Tonga. More clouds returned during early morning hours. Winds remain fresh. Wind 20 knots from SE, 100% cloud cover, barometer 1014.
Thu Sep 1 6:02 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 45S 174 00W
Anchored at Ngau Island in Vava'u, Tonga. Skies cleared late yesterday after a day of moderate to heavy rain. Rain returned early this morning but has now ended. Beautiful sunrise!
Wind 4 knots from N, 95% cloud cover, barometer 1013.
Wed Aug 31 6:21 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 45S 174 00W
Run: 4.1nm (7.4km)
Anchored at Ngau Island in Vava'u, Tonga. We sighted and photographed a 2 meter long Leopard shark while snorkeling yesterday. Very cool!! Wind calm, 89% humidity, 100% cloud cover, barometer 1015.
Tue Aug 30 6:59 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 42S 174 02W
Anchored at Port Maurelle in Vava'u, Tonga. A few gentle showers fell during the night but skies are mostly sunny this morning. Wind 7 knots from E, 40% cloud cover, barometer 1017.
Mon Aug 29 6:35 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 42S 174 02W
Run: 4nm (7.2km)
Anchored at Port Maurelle in Vava'u, Tonga. Spectacular late afternoon swim yesterday through Swallows' Cave with a massive school of bait fish.
Thu Aug 25 6:15 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 40S 173 59W
Run: 75.2nm (136.1km)
Avg: 3.2knts
24hr: 75.8nm
Avg: 3.2knts
24hr: 75.8nm
Anchored in Neiafu Harbor after a lively and fast passage north from Ha'apai yesterday. Guests from home are arriving on Saturday.
Wind 8 knots from SE, 80% cloud cover, barometer 1018.
Wed Aug 24 6:27 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 43S 174 17W
Run: 6.3nm (11.4km)
Anchored at north end of Foa Island. Leaving this morning for Vava'u. Beautiful sunny day here. Wind 14 from SE, 10% cloud cover, barometer 1017
Tue Aug 23 7:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 47s 174 21w
Run: 731.4nm (1323.8km)
Avg: 29.4knts
24hr: 706.4nm
Avg: 29.4knts
24hr: 706.4nm
Weather: 9 knts from ESE 98% cloud cover baro 1016
Anchored near Pangai on Lifuka Island. Glorious sunshine here yesterday. We are planning to sail north to Neiafu tomorrow.
Mon Aug 22 6:09 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 50S 174 24E
Run: 728nm (1317.7km)
Avg: 1292.9knts
24hr: 31030.7nm
Avg: 1292.9knts
24hr: 31030.7nm
Wind 12 from SE, clear skies, barometer 1016
Mon Aug 22 5:35 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 50S 174 24W
Run: 21.7nm (39.3km)
Anchored at Uoleva Island. Beautiful, sunny day yesterday for pleasant sail from Ha'afeva. Heading back north to Vava'u this week to meet guests flying in from the States.
Sun Aug 21 6:18 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 19 56s 174 43w
Weather: 13 knts from SE 80% cloud cover baro 1012
Anchored at Ha'afeva Island. We moved to east side of island yesterday as wind backed to the west. We had a peaceful night serenaded by the sound of singing whales clearly heard through our hulls.
Sat Aug 20 6:48 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 19 56s 174 43w
Weather: 6 knts from NW 100% cloud cover baro 1012
Anchored at Ha'afeva Island. Moderate rain falling. We're beginning to grow moss between our toes.
Fri Aug 19 6:21 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 19 56s 174 43w
Run: 22.8nm (41.3km)
Weather: 7 knts from SW 100% cloud cover baro 1012
Anchored at Ha'afeva Island after a pleasant motor-sail yesterday from Nomuka Island. No rain at present but dark clouds in all quadrants.
Thu Aug 18 6:27 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 15s 174 49w
Weather: 18-20 knts from SSE 100% cloud cover baro 1010
Anchored at Nomuka Island. South wind shift at 0300 accompanied by heavy rain.
falling.
Wed Aug 17 6:33 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 15s 174 49w
Weather: 7 knts from N 100% cloud cover baro 1014
Repositioned at Nomuka Island for backing winds. Moderate rain falling.
Tue Aug 16 6:21 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 15s 174 49w
Weather: 11-13 knts from SE 100% cloud cover baro 1014
Anchored at Nomuka Island.
Mon Aug 15 6:03 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 15s 174 49w
Run: 1.1nm (2km)
Weather: 12-15 knts from SE 98% cloud cover baro 1015
Anchored at Nomuka Island near Whale Discoveries "Beach Barn".
More whale swimming adventures on tap for today.
Sun Aug 14 6:45 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 15s 174 48w
Run: 2.3nm (4.2km)
Weather: 11 knts from SE 98% cloud cover baro 1016
Anchored at Nomuka Island. We still smiling from another awesome experience of swimming with whales yesterday...memories that will last a lifetime!
Sat Aug 13 6:33 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 17s 174 48w
Weather: 15 knts from E 60% cloud cover baro 1018
Still anchored at Nomuka'iki Island. More whale swimming planned for today.
Fri Aug 12 6:27 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 17s 174 48w
Weather: 15-17 knts from ESE 98% cloud cover baro 1018
Still anchored at Nomuka'iki Island. We had some sunshine yesterday with lighter winds and a fantastic experience with the folks at Whale Discoveries. We spent time in the water with a very friendly and curious Humpback and got some amazing, up close and personal video and stills. What a day!!
Thu Aug 11 6:03 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 17s 174 48w
Weather: 14-16 knts from SE 98% cloud cover baro 1017
Still anchored at Nomuka'iki Island. Heading out with a local company today for swimming with whales
Wed Aug 10 6:03 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 17s 174 48w
Weather: 23-25 knts from ESE 98% cloud cover baro 1015
Still anchored at Nomuka'iki Island. Boatbound yesterday with rain and fresh winds. Hoping for better weather today!
Tue Aug 9 6:36 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 17s 174 48w
Weather: 7 knts from E 98% cloud cover baro 1016
Anchored at Nomuka'iki Island. We enjoyed the snorkeling and beach combimg here yesterday despite the gloomy weather. Looks like more of the same for today.
Mon Aug 8 6:36 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 17s 174 48w
Run: 14.2nm (25.7km)
Weather: 8-10 knts from E 100% cloud cover baro 1013
Anchored at Nomuka'iki Island. Wind shifted from NW to SE at noon yesterday and we experienced one significant squall with heavy rain and wind gusts to 30 knots. Holding here is excellent with nearby reefs and islands providing reasonable protection.
Sat Aug 6 5:51 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 05s 174 45w
Run: 19nm (34.4km)
Weather: 4 knts from WSW 10% cloud cover baro 1012
Anchored in crystal clear water at Wickham Reef. Moving to O'ua Island this morning
Fri Aug 5 5:48 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 01s 174 28w
Run: 3.6nm (6.5km)
Weather: 6 knts from ENE 40% cloud cover baro 1014
Anchored at lovely Limu Island. Moving to O'ua or Ha'afeva today after scuba diving at Wickham Reef.
Thu Aug 4 6:32 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 58S 174 29W
Run: 1.6nm (2.9km)
Anchored at Uonukuhihifo Island. Wind E at 10-12 Knots, Sky clear, barometetr 1017
Wed Aug 3 5:46 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 57s 174 28w
Run: 7.6nm (13.8km)
Anchored at Tofanga Island. Wind SSE at 18-20 kts, sky 10% cloud, barometer 1013
Tue Aug 2 6:21 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 51S 174 25W
Wind WSW at 5kts, 100% cloud cover, barometer 1011
Mon Aug 1 5:24 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 51S 174 25W
Peaceful night at Uoleva Island with occasional light rain showers. Wind slowly backing to NNW. Wind currently 9 knots from N, sky 70% cloud, barometer 1011
Sat Jul 30 6:21 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 51S 174 25W
Run: 15.4nm (27.9km)
Still anchored at Uoleva Island. Wind ESE 7, 60% cloud cover, barometer 1015. We walked the entire circumference of the island at low tide yesterday (about 5 miles) and our feet are feeling a bit tender this morning.
Thu Jul 28 6:14 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 40S 174 17W
Run: 50.7nm (91.8km)
Anchored at Ha'ano Island in Tonga"s Ha'apai Group. Wind ESE 12-14, sky 20% cloud, barometer 1017. All is well on board.
Wed Jul 27 7:35 2016 NZST
Speed: 7.5
knts GPS: 18 57S 174 07W
Run: 14.2nm (25.7km)
Weather: ESE12, 1m se swell
in sight of Gypsea Heart on the way to Hapaais, Tonga
Thu Jul 21 6:31 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 45S 174 04W
Run: 5.9nm (10.7km)
Anchored next to "Whistler" off Mounu Island in Vav'au. We're looking forward to our first kite boarding lesson today. Wind 15-17 from SSE, 50% cloud cover, barometer 1016.
Mon Jul 11 5:46 2016 NZST
No position sent.
Back aboard after 6 weeks in the States. Now anchored at Kenutu Island in Vava'u, Tonga. Wind NW at 5kts, less than 10% cloud cover, barometer 1012. Looks like another spectacular day in the tropics!
Wed Jun 1 6:24 2016 NZST
Speed: 5 knts
knts GPS: 18 40s 174 05w
Run: 133.6nm (241.8km)
Avg: 5.6knts
24hr: 135.4nm
Avg: 5.6knts
24hr: 135.4nm
Weather: 5 knts from E 20% cloud cover baro 1016
Arriving Neiafu after a pleasant overnight sail from Kelefesia.
Tue May 31 6:43 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 30s 174 44w
Weather: 5 knts from E 10% cloud cover baro 1017
Anchored at Kelefesia Island. Leaving soon for Neiafu.
Mon May 30 6:27 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 20 30s 174 44w
Run: 45nm (81.5km)
Weather: 5 knts from E 20% cloud cover baro 1018
Anchored at spectacular Kelefesia Island. Will continue north to Vava'u tomorrow.
Sun May 29 5:58 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 21 02s 175 08w
Run: 17.4nm (31.5km)
Weather: 8 knts from NE 60% cloud cover baro 1017
Anchored at lovely Molinoa Island. Heading north to Kelefesia today.
Sat May 28 6:52 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 21 16s 175 02w
Run: 12.6nm (22.8km)
Weather: 7 knts from NNE 100% cloud cover baro 1018 light rain
Anchored in the rain at Pangaimotu getting ready to head for Neiafu.
Wed May 25 7:00 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 21 08s 175 10w
Run: 38.6nm (69.9km)
Weather: 5 knts from E 10% cloud cover baro 1016
Anchored at Pangaimotu in front of Big Mama's with 11 other yachts.
Tue May 24 6:24 2016 NZST
Speed: 6 knts
knts GPS: 21 19s 175 44w
Run: 144.3nm (261.2km)
Avg: 6.1knts
24hr: 145.9nm
Avg: 6.1knts
24hr: 145.9nm
Weather: 4 knts from S 10% cloud cover baro 1015
30 miles from Egeria Channel entrance to Nuku'alofa. Motoring.
All is well on board. Burgers and beers at Big Mama's tonight!
Mon May 23 6:40 2016 NZST
Speed: 4 knts
knts GPS: 22 40s 177 27w
Run: 114.5nm (207.2km)
Weather: 11-13 knts from SSW 100% cloud cover baro 1012
Departed N. Minerva yesterday en route to Nuku'alofa Tonga. All is well on board.
Sat May 21 7:07 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 23 39s 178 54w
Weather: 6 knts from E 90% cloud cover baro 1014
Anchored at North Minerva. All is well on board. Looking at possible midweek departure for Vava'u.
Fri May 20 6:45 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 23 39s 178 54w
Weather: 5 knts from SE 40% cloud cover baro 1018
Anchored at North Minerva. All is well on board.
Thu May 19 6:40 2016 NZST
Speed: 0 knts
knts GPS: 23 39s 178 54w
Run: 46.2nm (83.6km)
Weather: 10 knts from SSE 10% cloud cover baro 1016
Anchored at North Minerva. All is well on board.
Wed May 18 6:46 2016 NZST
Speed: 6 knts
knts GPS: 24 12s 179 19w
Run: 143.8nm (260.3km)
Avg: 5.9knts
24hr: 141.4nm
Avg: 5.9knts
24hr: 141.4nm
Weather: 15-18 knts from SE 40% cloud cover baro 1016
17 miles from South Minerva. ETA 10am. If conditions are too bumpy there, we'll continue to North Minerva. All is well on board.
Tue May 17 6:22 2016 NZST
Speed: 6 knts
knts GPS: 26 08s 179 50e
Run: 163.8nm (296.5km)
Avg: 7knts
24hr: 167.3nm
Avg: 7knts
24hr: 167.3nm
Weather: 5-7 knts from S 30% cloud cover baro 1015
Motor sailing in pleasant conditions. All is well on board.
Mon May 16 6:52 2016 NZST
Speed: 5 knts
knts GPS: 28 14s 178 36e
Run: 159.4nm (288.5km)
Avg: 6.6knts
24hr: 157.8nm
Avg: 6.6knts
24hr: 157.8nm
Weather: 5-7 knts from NE 10% cloud cover baro 1016
Rough, wet and windy day yesterday as we transitioned convergence zone.
Lots of very heavy rain, some lightening and winds 25-30 knts. Nice today, all is well on board.
Sun May 15 6:37 2016 NZST
Speed: 5.5 knts
knts GPS: 30 25s 177 45e
Run: 149.4nm (270.4km)
Avg: 6.2knts
24hr: 148.6nm
Avg: 6.2knts
24hr: 148.6nm
Weather: 9 knts from NE 100% cloud cover baro 1018
Pleasant sailing with some motoring yesterday. Winds remain fairly light and now nearly on the nose so started motor sailing again at 0600. All is well on board except that poor Anne has a nasty cold.
Sat May 14 6:29 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.0 knts
knts GPS: 32 21s 176 37e
Run: 146nm (264.3km)
Avg: 6knts
24hr: 143.9nm
Avg: 6knts
24hr: 143.9nm
Weather: 3 knts from WSW 5% cloud cover baro 1021
Perfect day of sailing under sunny skies yesterday. Winds went light at sunset so our speed dropped to around 4 knots through the night. Winds are now light and variable so we started motor sailing at 0600. All is well on board.
Fri May 13 6:08 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.5 knts
knts GPS: 34 17s 175 36e
Weather: 15 knts from SW 10% cloud cover baro 1017
Departed Marsden Cove yesterday at 1300. Motorsailed in light air till 1600 then picked up 14-16 knt from NW. Good sailing through the night. All is well onboard though not sure yet about the catamaran's motion at sea. It's not really bad, just different from good old "Blue Rodeo".
Thu May 12 6:28 2016 NZST
No position sent.
Leaving Marsden Cove for Minerva this afternoon.
Wed May 11 6:35 2016 NZST
No position sent.
Now at Marsden Cove. Leaving here for Tonga via Minerva Reef tomorrow.
Mon May 9 7:28 2016 NZST
No position sent.
Leaving Town Basin for Marsden Cove tomorrow. Heading for Tonga via Minerva at the end of the week.
Sun May 1 21:12 2016 NZST
No position sent.
In Whangarei waiting for Tonga weather window
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Bravado
Bravado
Tue Nov 29 20:39 2016 NZDT
Speed: 7 kn
knts GPS: 34 36.512S 174 12.291E
Run: 90.9nm (164.5km)
Avg: 8knts
24hr: 192.2nm
Avg: 8knts
24hr: 192.2nm
Weather: wind 14kn W , Seas 0.5m lazy, 0 % cloud cover, 1016 baro.
Cheers Al & Shirl Reynolds
Welcomed to NZ by dolphins this evening. great sail past Nth Cape once Westerly kicked in at 1530. Swell gone & reaching down coast, lookin to be stunning sunset soon, no clouds, last night at sea and it looks to be a beaut. All crew looking forward to seeing their loved ones at Marsden tomorrow mid-day.
Tue Nov 29 9:18 2016 NZDT
Speed: 7 kn
knts GPS: 33 22S 173 41E
Run: 106.5nm (192.8km)
Avg: 7.4knts
24hr: 177.5nm
Avg: 7.4knts
24hr: 177.5nm
Weather: wind 8-10kn SSW , Seas 2.0m lazy SW swell, 1m chop , 20 % cloud cover, 1018 baro.
Sailed till 0230 then motor sailed into headwinds & 2 m swells. Our world has now been on an angle for 5 days.
All looking forward to level land. Closest land only 1 km away but unfortunately its straight down & we dont want to go there.... Next land 69 nm to Nth Cape.
All well onboard. ETA Marsden aprox Wed noon.
Mon Nov 28 18:54 2016 NZDT
Speed: 6 kn
knts GPS: 32 10S 172 32E
Run: 60.7nm (109.9km)
Avg: 5.8knts
24hr: 140.1nm
Avg: 5.8knts
24hr: 140.1nm
Weather: wind 13kn SSW , Seas 3.0m lazy SW swell, 1m chop , 60 % cloud cover, 1014 baro.
Cheers Al & Shirl Reynolds
Cheers Al & Shirl Reynolds
Headwinds straight out from Langs Beach, thanks Shirl....Pushing 2kn tide this afternoon so motor sailing in 2 m rollers most of the day and into tonight. Seas bit sloppy . Roast Chicken Dinner on the go... Cloudless sky now.
All well onboard.
Mon Nov 28 8:30 2016 NZDT
Speed: 7 kn
knts GPS: 31 23S 172 04E
Run: 98.1nm (177.6km)
Avg: 8.1knts
24hr: 193.8nm
Avg: 8.1knts
24hr: 193.8nm
Weather: wind 13kn SSW , Seas 3.0m lazy SW swell, 1m chop , 60 % cloud cover, 1014 baro.
Cheers Al & Shirl Reynolds
Good SW winds of 14-18kn last night had us reaching at 7-8 kn through the night. At 0500 an unexpected rain squall got the crew up & motivated us to reef quickly. Great crew work. Blue sky with cumulus clouds to windward, looks like a bumpy, great day ahead.. 300 n miles to Go All well onboard
Sun Nov 27 20:21 2016 NZDT
Speed: 6.6kn
knts GPS: 30 08S 171 17E
Run: 76.4nm (138.3km)
Avg: 6.6knts
24hr: 158.8nm
Avg: 6.6knts
24hr: 158.8nm
Weather: wind 12kn SSW , Seas 3.0m. 60 % cloud cover, 1014 baro.
Cheers Al & Shirl Reynolds
Beautiful sailing most of day in light winds and sunny Sky. Boys powering through novels, lots of relaxing & snoozing going on. Heading into 4th night at sea and all aboard happy. Light head winds forcast for the rest of the trip. 380 n miles to go. ETA still Marsden Wednesday all going to plan....
Sun Nov 27 8:48 2016 NZDT
Speed: 6.2kn
knts GPS: 29 07S 170 47E
Run: 69.7nm (126.2km)
Avg: 5.6knts
24hr: 134.9nm
Avg: 5.6knts
24hr: 134.9nm
Weather: wind 7kn S , Seas 1.0m. 30 % cloud cover, 1015 baro.
Cheers Al & Shirl Reynolds
Motorsailed straight into it last night with quite a few bangs to keep us on our toes. Wax earplugs resulted in good sleep for all off watch despite the movement.
Suns out on a beautiful morning and all onboard are feeling good.
Passed 1/2 way mark yesterday.
Expect to sail later this morn as wind clocks through Sth to SW as we get closer to this high.
.Thanks for your YIT messages and big thanks to Kingsley for accurate weather routing info.
Sat Nov 26 20:24 2016 NZDT
Speed: 5.5kn
knts GPS: 28 10S 170 24E
Run: 67.9nm (122.9km)
Avg: 6.3knts
24hr: 152.3nm
Avg: 6.3knts
24hr: 152.3nm
Weather: wind 18kn SE, Seas 2.5m. 60 % cloud cover, 1013 baro.
Big difference going into tonight. 18kn head winds and 2.5m seas with sharp wind chop on top has us banging & into it. Wind & seas should ease tonight we trust as we are heading towards a high.... Holding on and having Chilli Concarne for dinner.
Crew all O.K
Sat Nov 26 9:42 2016 NZDT
Speed: 6.0kn
knts GPS: 27 31S 169 34E
Run: 109.3nm (197.8km)
Avg: 7.2knts
24hr: 173.1nm
Avg: 7.2knts
24hr: 173.1nm
Weather: wind 8kn NW, Seas 1.0m. 100 % cloud cover, 1012 baro.
Cheers Al & Shirl Reynolds
Left Code 0 up till 0300 in calm star lit night with bright phosphorescence. Good sleep for everyone and shifts went quick.
Luckily performance of crew improved before Captains review meeting with 1 x tuna landed and 1 x Huge Blue Marlin dropped (phew) after spectacular hookup 25m from stern. The hookup occurred as Robbie was discarding the eggshells from breakfast...Burley ??? Now motoring in 8kn NW cloud getting lower by the hr..... 1/3 of the way home. Crew happy.
Fri Nov 25 18:33 2016 NZDT
Speed: 6.0kn
knts GPS: 26 12S 168 35E
Run: 277.7nm (502.6km)
Avg: 28.3knts
24hr: 680.1nm
Avg: 28.3knts
24hr: 680.1nm
Weather: wind 10kn NE, Seas 1.0m. 80 % cloud cover, 1011 baro
Cheers Al & Shirl Reynolds
Beautiful day today reaching in 8 - 17kn.NE Sun & Code 0 out all day and its still real warm here. Lots of reading and snoozing happening among the crew. Seas dropped & real comfortable now.
Lots of bird life but No Fish...Crew performance review scheduled AM tomorrow if this does not improve...
Front expected over us at midnight tonight.
Now 219nm fm Ilse des Pins, 658nm to go to Whangarei heads....
Fri Nov 25 8:45 2016 NZDT
Speed: 7.0kn
knts GPS: 22 12S 168 10E
Run: 44.4nm (80.4km)
Avg: 3.6knts
24hr: 86.3nm
Avg: 3.6knts
24hr: 86.3nm
Weather: wind 15-18kn NE, Seas 1.5m. 90 % cloud cover, 1010 baro
Cheers Al & Shirl Reynolds
All good aboard after 1st night at sea with thunder lightening all around us. We dodged the rain cells thru the night to aviod getting zapped. Good sailing, bit bumpy and winds up & down.
Doing 0800 8752 sched so look out GH Radio, just need a weather guru and we are in business...
Thu Nov 24 20:24 2016 NZDT
Speed: 7.0kn
knts GPS: 22 41.589S 167 43.220E
Run: 16.9nm (30.6km)
Weather: wind 15 kn NE, Seas 1.5m. 50 % cloud cover, 1012 baro
Cheers Al & Shirl Reynolds
Dinner on the go bit bumpy out here on the start of the first night. Great days sail doing 8kn plus with True Blue then passing Eerie Spirit..
Thu Nov 24 11:48 2016 NZDT
Speed: 7.8kn
knts GPS: 22 47.788S 167 28.787E
Run: 9.8nm (17.7km)
Weather: wind 15 kn NE, Seas 1.5m. 50 % cloud cover, 1012 baro
Cheers Al & Shirl Reynolds
3 POB Ground Control to Major Tom, Anchors up & Jackets on.
Left Ilse des Pins 1000 NZ daylight time.
True Blue left same time as us.
Great start to trip to NZ...warm breeze & romping along.
Mon Nov 21 9:50 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 39.590S 167 26.405E
Run: 0.2nm (0.4km)
Weather: E 20-25 100% Cloud & Rain. Baro 1015
Hoping to leave Ilse des Pins maybe Wednesday as soon as this low departs and winds abate. All good onboard, stores running low and beer rationing is in full force. Trading with others in bay has us with fresh ginger crunch and date loaf swapped 4 caned butter. Good score for the boys..
6 yachts waiting with us. Movie & book day in the rain...
Mon Nov 14 8:02 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 39.59913S 167 26.55179E
Run: 0.3nm (0.5km)
Weather: NE 5kn . 5% Cloud. Baro 1012
It's looking like Wednesday/Thursday departure from here now. Thanks David & Patricia for the great weather insights.
Rigged furling inner forestay & test sailed yesterday. Great weather here at present.
Sat Nov 12 7:52 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 39.818S 167 26.687E
Run: 0.4nm (0.7km)
Weather: 10kn S 50% cloud.
Back afloat after leaving Bravado on Marina at Noumea for 12 days & returning to NZ. During which time someone stole entire ignition assembly from outboard ...so no outboard ....At Ile des Pins now after nice sail fm Noumea. Waiting weather window for trip to NZ
Tue Oct 25 18:31 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 39.526s 167 26.456e
Run: 49.2nm (89.1km)
Ilse of Pines , Kuto. Shirl saw her 1st Dugon when we were enjoying the sunset in beanbags on forward deck last night. Too quick for a pic. Lots of big Remora's (sucker fish) under Bravado enjoying our scraps..
Great place for beach walks...
Sat Oct 22 9:21 2016 NZDT
Speed: 0 kn
knts GPS: 22 20.547S 166 45.089E
Run: 11.7nm (21.2km)
Weather: wind 15 kn ENE, Seas 0.0m. 20 % cloud cover, 1018 baro
Anchored Baie Ue. Paddle Boarded up interesting River at head of bay at full tide yesterdsy. Heading to Isle Casy today to feed resident Dog today
Thu Oct 20 16:08 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 17.867S 166 34.476E
Run: 11nm (19.9km)
Ilot Bailly , Tucked in behind beautiful island in (Nature Reserve). Left moving it a bit late after fresh provisioning at Noumea this morn. Breeze builds mid morning & up to 20kn hard on nose so stopped 1/2 way.
Wed Oct 19 10:41 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 19.94753S 166 24.39738E
Run: 9.4nm (17km)
Ilse Maitre. Nature reserve so lots of big fish in clear water around free moorings. Here with Fusio & Sharpe Focus. Lots of laughs & sundowners last night with everyone. .Elliotts dominate this beautiful spot. Sundowners booked on Bravado tonight....
Sat Oct 15 1:12 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 12.66406S 166 20.46748E
Run: 16.2nm (29.3km)
Baye Maa. Nice bay .Prob stay till Monday. Real calm here tonight.. Great sail here today in 8-10kn. Yep ...code 0 again.
Fri Oct 14 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 06.109S 166 07.057E
Run: 8.3nm (15km)
Ile Ndukue . Big explore mission in dinghy around surrounding reefs & islands. Brilliant corals lots of turtles & big black tip shark.
Thu Oct 13 11:08 2016 NZDT
GPS: 21 59.84578S 166 3.13142E
Run: 56.3nm (101.9km)
Excellent sail up coast in 12-20kn., yea yea...code 0 again.. Calm sunny morning with Baie des Moustiques to ourselves..
Thu Oct 6 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 21.363S 166 50.521E
Run: 13.8nm (25km)
Ilot Casy . Picked up regional park mooring, ashore for sundowners & was met by & fed Moose the dog, the sole resident. He took us for guided walk around island on excellent well maintained tracks. Cool spot.
Wed Oct 5 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 33.111S 166 47.841E
Run: 10.8nm (19.5km)
Weather: Stunning. Oily calm w no cloud.
Ilot Mato. One of our favorites. Climbed to top for best ever views. Mirror calm, so paddle boarded around outer reef. Big shark followed Shirl for a while... Lots of Turtles. & small black tip sharks in shallows. Beers w Sharp Focus in evening.
Tue Oct 4 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 42.460S 166 48.516E
Run: 4.6nm (8.3km)
Ilse Ua. Great Snorkelling & Paddleboarding at another beautiful anchorage in sand..Lots of small sharks in the shallows & snakes ashore.
Sun Oct 2 21:03 2016 NZDT
Speed: 0 kn
knts GPS: 22 46.437S 166 48.074E
Run: 41.5nm (75.1km)
Weather: wind 5 kn S, Seas 0.0m. 0 % cloud cover, 1015 baro
Anchored behind Ilse Kouare in Southern Lagoon on sand in 7m of water as clear as Gin. Spectacular coral. Lots of snakes ashore.
Sat Oct 1 22:25 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 39.53412S 167 26.44345E
Run: 3.3nm (6km)
In Kudo , beautiful beach & heaps of large turtles popping up in the calm anchorage. Ashore last night for sundowners & dinner at beachside Hotel Kou-Bugny for the worst & rudest service. Deena & Brad off on ferry this evening after excellent week together.
Fri Sep 30 8:01 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 42.164S 167 27.752e
Run: 13.8nm (25km)
Weather: Wind 5kn E, 20% high cloud..
Another beautiful anchorage, Ilse Brosse. Sundowners ashore last night . Hand feeding friendly Ramora's that think we are their mother ship...
Fri Sep 30 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 30.627S 167 24.317E
Run: 8.5nm (15.4km)
Sailed around top of Ilse of Pines. Dropped Deenz & Brad off in dinghy on east coast to explore Baye de Gadji & met them on the west side....
Sun Sep 25 14:20 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 34.262S 167 31.289E
Run: 8.1nm (14.7km)
Baie De Ugo or Oro ?? Anchored in paradise. Deenz & Brad off exploring in dinghy. Here for a few days till Westerly dies...Couldnt get much better than this...
Sat Sep 24 22:27 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 39.810s 167 26.661E
Run: 69.5nm (125.8km)
Great 10 hr sail fm Noumea in light winds yesterday to Ilse of Pines. Brad & Deenz arrived on 0930 ferry this morn . Good to catch up .Stunning day of swimming & enjoying the sun..
Fri Sep 23 0:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 16.631S 166 26.404E
Run: 39.9nm (72.2km)
Up early , off to fresh fruit & vegie markets, then immigration, then supermarket, then pack & be ready to leave for Isle o pines early tomorrow....no rest for the wicked....Good to be here...
Wed Sep 21 7:33 2016 NZST
Speed: 7 kn
knts GPS: 22 19.972S 167 03.690E
Run: 180.2nm (326.2km)
Avg: 7.6knts
24hr: 182.5nm
Avg: 7.6knts
24hr: 182.5nm
Weather: wind 8 kn S, Seas 0.5m. 90 % cloud cover, 1015 baro
Entering Havanah Pass. New Cal.. Motoring into head SW winds last night but only 8-11 kn. Motorsailig now. Clearing in later today. Yeee haaaa....
Tue Sep 20 7:51 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.7 kn
knts GPS: 21 21.610S 169 40.100E
Run: 193.7nm (350.6km)
Avg: 8knts
24hr: 192.9nm
Avg: 8knts
24hr: 192.9nm
Weather: wind 5kn NE, Seas 1.0m. 20 % cloud cover, 1017 baro
Yesterday another great day of Code 0 sailing in 12-18 kn, shared between Otto Von Helm and Capt Al. Wind died off to 5 kn by 0100 this morning so turned on Viki Vulva ( Motor) for what may appear to be the rest of the run to Noumea..
ETA Havanah Pass dawn tomorrow....
Mon Sep 19 7:45 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 58S 172 16E
Run: 200.7nm (363.3km)
Avg: 8.6knts
24hr: 206.3nm
Avg: 8.6knts
24hr: 206.3nm
Weather: wind 12.5kn SE, Seas 1.5m. 25 % cloud cover, 1016 baro
Day 3 now and its turned out to be fantastic passage. Yesterday morning Day2 calmed off and we had 10- 17 kn allowing some great Code 0 sailing in the morning. 8-9 kn 2 sail reaching into the evening. Great sunset then big moon. Lots of sleep last night for the capt and admiral. The seas have calmed down to 1-1.5m. Wind at 120deg and 12knSE, ideal.... Code 0 up again letting admiral off to after long morning shift..
Sun Sep 18 8:24 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 39.414S 175 00.774E
Run: 161nm (291.4km)
Avg: 7.7knts
24hr: 185.4nm
Avg: 7.7knts
24hr: 185.4nm
Weather: wind 13.5kn ENE, Seas 1.8m. 20 % cloud cover, 1014 baro
Sloppy 1st night with a few cockpit focused waves in 18-22 kn. Full moon made it bearable. 2 reefs in main & headsail for night. Wind eased to 13-15 this morning. Suns out. 2 POB all well
Sat Sep 17 11:33 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 41.231S 177 14.544E
Run: 10.4nm (18.8km)
Leaving Fiji. Heading to New Cal . Stunning day today 6 kn SE.
Tue Sep 13 7:29 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 38.546S 177 23.601E
Run: 9nm (16.3km)
Weather: Wind 0 kn, Cloud 90% , Baro 1018
In Sawini Bay getting a shower of sugar cane fire ash , Checked back in to customs, looking at leaving later this week for New Cal........
Tue Sep 6 11:27 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 46.372S 177 22.903E
Run: 12.6nm (22.8km)
Back at Denarau Marina .Getting everything ready for 1100km trip to New Cal, prob leaving Fri/Sat weather permitting.
Fri Sep 2 0:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 46.259S 177 11.392E
Run: 42.3nm (76.6km)
Musket Cove for last night w Phil & Colleen. Brilliant week up to Yasawas and back. Great crew & lots of fun & I think the boys are still better at 500 than the girls...
Wed Aug 31 7:49 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 9.50559S 177 12.22918E
Run: 10.4nm (18.8km)
Another stunner day yesterday w no wind . Ashore for beach walk & to visit Lisa's stingray & tell it how good her foot had healed since it stabbed her in 2013...couldn't find it..... Had great snorkel in pass at hi tide with Manta Rays and huge bait schools . After the other boats left we found the Rays again circling a school of fish on the surface and doing underwater back flips. We had our own private show. Skurfing at sundown in mirror calm topped off another great day.
Manta ray girl Shirl
Mon Aug 29 21:51 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 16.53539S 177 6.32064E
Run: 13.4nm (24.3km)
Motored up Waya to Octopus. Another stunning windless day with 10kn S in afternoon. Swims then ashore for sundowners and dinner with Phil & Colleen. This is another beautiful anchorage....we bit sloppy at night.
Sundowners at Octopus Resort
Sun Aug 28 0:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 27.606S 177 02.633E
Run: 31nm (56.1km)
In Navandra for night. Great sail in perfect Code 0 conditions to get here. Cloudless sky... Lots of swims in Luke warm clear water and good walks ashore.. This is a beautiful place. Became uncomfortable and squally for a period at night. Calm again by morn....
Sat Aug 27 7:20 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 46.34119S 177 22.92767E
Run: 37.9nm (68.6km)
On Denarau Marina. Supplies & New batteries stowed & installed. . Very social life on the marina.... Phil & Colleen arrive today. Heading out tomorrow....
Wed Aug 24 8:03 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 23.548S 177 47.763E
Run: 67.4nm (122km)
Weather: 2 kn SE, Cloud 80% , Baro 1015
Arrived al Longick Bay ( for the lack of another name) at 1645 after great trip fm Leluvia in 15-23 kn. inside the reef. Great very sheltered anchorage.
Up early & off to Saweni Bay or Denarau today, in oily calm conditions at present.
Mon Aug 22 20:04 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 48.629S 178 43.236E
Run: 202.1nm (365.8km)
Said our goodbuys to Vulanga & host family, were fed ,entertained & drank Kava, given presents and hugs. Also farewell to Blinder for a little while. Loved the card games in the rain, snorkeling the pass & the Blue holes.
Now at Leluvia after boisterous o/night sail fm Vulanga. Arrived here in rain squalls and 20-25kn SE.
Still grey and rainy. Early to bed as didn't sleep last night.
Wed Aug 10 8:42 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 09.171S 178 32.372W
Run: 2.2nm (4km)
Weather: wind 18kn ESE, Seas 0.0m. 100 % cloud cover, 1016 baro
Rain Rain go away, we have had enough of you for today. Rained & Blew since Saturday. Looking to clear sometime today and slowly improve from here. Postponed village Sevusevu due to rain deluges but will prob do it later today with Blinder. Sky on the ESE horizon looking like lifting at last.
Mon Aug 8 7:33 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 08s 178 34w
Run: 206nm (372.9km)
Avg: 4.7knts
24hr: 112.5nm
Avg: 4.7knts
24hr: 112.5nm
Weather: 100%cc, drizzle, 13SE, 1013
moaning about lack of sunshine!
Sat Aug 6 11:36 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 09.135S 178 32.367W
Run: 91.3nm (165.3km)
Weather: wind 10kn NE, Seas 0.0m. 20 % cloud cover, 1011 baro
Arrived 0745 Falanga, or Vulanga Is in Southern Lao. Enjoyable sail yesterday in 10-14Kn, East backing NE overnight easing in early hrs so motorsailed. Once safely in the narrow reef pass it was well worth the effort. What an unreal stunning location housed in a huge aqua blue lagoon. We can now see why boats come here for months.....
Vulanga, Sandspit anchorage.
Paradise.
Thu Aug 4 18:25 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 44.675S 179 46.280W
Run: 2nm (3.6km)
Qamea Is, NW Anchorge, stunning day, walk ashore, white sandy beach, blue warm water, yacht friendly locals, what more could you wish for. Dinghy on deck ready for early 0700 sail to Fulanga. ETA 0700 Sat.
Qamea Is. Shirl ready for shell hunting ashore...
Wed Aug 3 8:52 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 43.815S 179 44.680W
Run: 34.8nm (63km)
Matagi Is anchored in wot appears to be an beautiful old volcanic crater. Oh well, more snorkeling , paddle boarding & exploring ...then cards & yelling w Blinder..
Blinder enjoying Matagi Anchorage
Mon Aug 1 16:11 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 43.534S 179 43.79e
Run: 29.8nm (53.9km)
Stocked up again at Savusavu this morn then motor sailed with Code 0 to Fawn Harbour in lovely calm seas & 6-9 kn breeze. Now at anchor in afternoon rain shower.... off in morn to Taveuni and Qamea Is with Blinder.
Fawn Harbour in morn w Blinder,
Heading to Taveuni . Love my wife & code 0 in that order.
Sat Jul 30 7:52 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 48.618S 179 17.290E
Run: 3.5nm (6.3km)
Away at last from the ease of life on a Copra Shed Berth. 10 days of being 5 m from the Copra SHed Bar , delivery meals to our cockpit, fresh fruit & vegie market & real social friendly scene...So easy to stay another day but great to be back at anchor. Blinder arrived yesterday so now waiting weather window to head SE.
Walk up hill fm Cousteau's Resort.
Mon Jul 18 8:24 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 46.582s 179 19.639E
Run: 162.6nm (294.3km)
Avg: 6.5knts
24hr: 155.2nm
Avg: 6.5knts
24hr: 155.2nm
Weather: wind 5kn ESE, Seas 0.0m. 10 % cloud cover, 1017 baro
Arrived 0530 Savusavu, Fiji. Enjoyable broad reach yesterday in 14-20Kn, overnight bit light, died off 0330 so motored last 2 hrs. Napping now & awaiting customs clearance. Good passage, will done Shirl xxxx
Copra Shed, Savusavu
Sun Jul 17 7:15 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 36s 178 22w
Run: 184.7nm (334.3km)
Avg: 7.7knts
24hr: 185.1nm
Avg: 7.7knts
24hr: 185.1nm
Weather: wind 12- 18kn ESE, Seas 1.5m. 100 % cloud cover, heavy showers 1017 baro
Great night ,motored all night in light winds. Awoke this morn to grey skies and rain squalls around us. Seas now confused 1.5m. Bout to set sail again once rain squall passes. Pilot house sailors try not to get too wet, Are we soft or wise, or both ?.... ETA Savusavu Monday morn. All well onboard
Sat Jul 16 7:18 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 13s 175 38w
Run: 112.3nm (203.3km)
Weather: wind 12 kn SE, Seas 1.0m. 80 % cloud cover. 1018 baro
Departed Vavau 1730 last evening heading Savusavu. 2 POB. Wind variable with good reaching up to 10kn boat speed to periods of motoring. Main up & down last night lots. Overcast but lovely bright night. All well onboard.
By net time they reported cloud 70%. And wind 12SSE. No shwrs.
Thu Jul 7 7:31 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 41.839S 173 59.855W
Run: 2.7nm (4.9km)
Lisa Beach #10 & tied back to trees ashore. Oily Calm & beautiful here. Paddle boarding and big walk ashore planned for today..
Bravado at Lisa's Beach #10 Tied to Tree Ashore.
Tue Jul 5 12:56 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 39.618S 173 58.952W
Run: 4.2nm (7.6km)
Neiafu Harbour for Kings Birthday &Independence Day Yacht race last night. Good fleet of 20 yachts. We got start wrong by so had to go around & back over line.... started behind fleet.....Won Race by 4 1/2 min. Great night ashore at Mangos.
Out in Front & Loving the Code 0.
Mon Jul 4 7:15 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 42.022S 174 01.870W
Run: 3.9nm (7.1km)
Weather: wind 8kn E. Cloud 85% , Baro 1017.
Back in Port Maurelle . Kings Birthday today so everyone gets a holiday....us too.
Wed Jun 29 17:59 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 45.215S 174 00.815W
Run: 7nm (12.7km)
Pau Is for great day ashore on sandpit w Carlie Alan & Cody . Stunning anchorage.
Tue Jun 28 0:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 39.417S 173 58.943W
Run: 9.9nm (17.9km)
Nuku Is. Great afternoon swimming & playing ashore This anchorage is what screen-savers of tropical islands are all about...
Hunter Family, Alan Carlie & Cody ready to go ashore.
Mon Jun 27 0:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 41.885S 174 07.631W
Run: 9.9nm (17.9km)
Hunga Lagoon. Walked to Village w Alan & Cody for a bit of culture, passion fruit & coconut trades. Less than 1m under keel on narrow entry,
Cody greeting local kids with a "Hi Five" at Hunga.
Sat Jun 25 0:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 39.362S 173 58.948W
Run: 4.5nm (8.1km)
Into Neiafu. Collected Carlie Alan & Grandson Cody (2) fm airport. Great 2 see them all well. Not sure who was the most excited, Shirl or Cody... Off to Port Maurelle for swims.
Mon Jun 20 7:09 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 42.061s 174 01.871w
Weather: wind 5 kn SE, Seas 0.0m. 70 % cloud cover. 1013 baro
Arrived Port Maurelle at sundown. Beautiful Night, Calm Anchorage. Good to be in Vava'u again. Off to Neiafu today to extend Visas and do crazy cruising permit again.
Mon Jun 20 7:09 2016 NZST
GPS: 18 42.061s 174 01.871w
Run: 55.1nm (99.7km)
Avg: 2.5knts
24hr: 60.3nm
Avg: 2.5knts
24hr: 60.3nm
Weather: wind 5 kn SE, Seas 0.0m. 70 % cloud cover. 1013 baro
Arrived Port Maurelle at sundown. Beautiful Night, Calm Anchorage. Good to be in Vava'u again. Off to Neiafu today to extend Visas and do crazy cruising permit again.
Sun Jun 19 9:13 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.5kn
knts GPS: 19 28s 174 16w
Run: 22.4nm (40.5km)
Weather: wind 10 kn ENE, Seas 1.0m. 20 % cloud cover. 1015 baro
Enroute Ha'apai to Vava'u. Great to be sailing again.
Fri Jun 17 8:15 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 46.892s 174 20.956w
Weather: wind 7 kn NE, Seas 0.0m. 90 % Hi cloud cover. 1016 baro
Still in NE Corner of Pangai by Airstrip. Awaiting E or SE for nice sail to Vava'u. Expect to leave in next day of so.
Mon Jun 13 7:02 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 46.876S 174 20.936W
Weather: Wind E 1Kn 100% Cloud, Rain easing, Baro 1014
Walking to airport in rain to make sure Bub & Gra get on the plane & take this horrid wet weather back to NZ with them. Rain stopping today. Very Good Anchorage in the NE blow.
Ha'apai & Rain Stopped for a bit
Fri Jun 10 7:07 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 46.892s 174 20.956w
Run: 5.4nm (9.8km)
Weather: wind 15-20 kn NE, Seas 0.0m. 100 % cloud cover. 1015 baro
Moved to NE Corner of Pangai by Airstrip. 4 boats here. Good anchorage in NE winds. Looks like a lot of rain & wind coming in next 18hrs so its cards, books & movie time today.
Welcome to the Tropics.
Wed Jun 8 7:12 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 43.533s 174 17.459w
Run: 0.3nm (0.5km)
Weather: wind 15 kn E, Seas 0.0m. 40 % cloud cover. 1019 baro
Tucked in a bit further along beach. Hiding from the predicted NE as front goes thru in next few days. Sunny between showers. Beautiful beach ashore. Shirl flies in today..
Sun Jun 5 18:35 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 43.320s 174 17.230w
Run: 12.1nm (21.9km)
Weather: SE 15kn , 80% cloud cover , baro 1016
Great sail to Uoleva but alas this year, no pirate party to greet us. Now at Foa, ashore for sundowners. Stunning anchorage, worth zooming in on this one. Prob here till the Shirl the Admiral arrives on Wednesday
Sat Jun 4 0:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 19 50.964S 174 24.855W
Run: 45.4nm (82.2km)
Avg: 2.9knts
24hr: 68.5nm
Avg: 2.9knts
24hr: 68.5nm
Uoleva , clear warm water & large friendly barracuda hanging around Bravado made us look b4 jumping in.
Fri Jun 3 8:06 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 26s 174 44w
Run: 55.2nm (99.9km)
Weather: wind 10 kn E, Seas 0.5m. 15 % cloud cover. 1017 baro
Enjoyed Kelefecia anchorage last night again. Up early & heading 4 Ha'apai's b4 the wind gets up.. Would like more South in todays wind please. Looks like a day hard on the wind....I didnt order this on my trip.. Bub settling after calling to "Ralf" yesterday....
Thu Jun 2 8:06 2016 NZST
GPS: 21 07.5126s 175 09.6931w
Run: 23.2nm (42km)
Weather: 20%CC, 11e, 1017
BACK TO kAELEFESIA TODAY
Wed Jun 1 6:55 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 50.98971S 174 57.43652W
Run: 25.1nm (45.4km)
Dropped boys off & topped Diesel up. Dinner at Big Mumma's. Nice & calm anchorage
Tue May 31 6:57 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 32s 174 46w
Run: 33.8nm (61.2km)
Weather: wind 10 kn E, Seas 0.5m. 20 % cloud cover. 1017 baro
Left Kelefecia, sloppy anchorage this morn, heading Nuku'alofa for crew swap & provisions. Murf & Mark off, Bub on tomorrow. Nice day for a sail.
Sat May 28 7:34 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 02.8 S 174 42.95 W
Run: 16.8nm (30.4km)
moved to Oua yesterday, caught tuna on the way (as usual)
Fri May 27 7:33 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 16.6S 174 48W
Weather: Ene18
One other boat here at Namuka where they are tucked in
Thu May 26 7:40 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 16.6S 174 48W
Run: 60.9nm (110.2km)
Weather: 5NN, 10%cc
had a great saill up yesterday and looking forward to being in the water today. great radio signal
Thu May 26 7:36 2016 NZST
No position sent.
Weather: 5NNE, 10%cc
anchored at Namuka after great sail up yesterday
Tue May 24 6:42 2016 NZST
Speed: wind 5 kn SSE, Seas 1.0m soft swell. 20 % cloud cover. 1015 baro
knts GPS: 21 02.108s 175 16.813w
Run: 173nm (313.1km)
Avg: 7.3knts
24hr: 174.7nm
Avg: 7.3knts
24hr: 174.7nm
Yesterday was SW 10-13kn, Code 0 only sailing in big swells 4-5m. Motored all night in easing seas. Another bright moonlit night and what looks like a beautiful day ahead, Now Arriving at Tongatapu about to go thru Egeria Channel. Not a splash of salt water on deck and the fruitbowl stayed on the cockpit table the whole 1180 nm trip fm NZ.
Mon May 23 6:56 2016 NZST
Speed: wind 11 kn SSW, Seas 4m soft swell fm Sth, 98 % cloud cover. 1013 baro
knts GPS: 22 20s 177 35w
Run: 124.3nm (225km)
Avg: 5.3knts
24hr: 127.7nm
Avg: 5.3knts
24hr: 127.7nm
Left for Nuku'alofa @ 1400 in 20kn SW slowly dying to 8-12 kn. Big following sea 4-5m with messy 1m confused top chop made for an uncomfortable night motorsailing. Full Moon was good. Cottage Pie was great. All Well.
Sun May 22 7:34 2016 NZST
Speed: wind 16 kn SW Sea Calm in here, 90 % cloud cover. 1011 baro
knts GPS: 23 38s 178 56w
Calm sunny day yesterday for more awesome snorkelling @Nth Minerva. Anchored in NW cnr. Interesting morning when at 0330 - 25-35kn NW & rain visited us.
Leaving for Nuku'alofa mid morning , expected arrival Tuesday AM.
Sat May 21 8:11 2016 NZST
Speed: wind 0.0kn NE Sea Calm 100 % cloud cover. 1015 baro
knts GPS: 23 38s 178 56w
Run: 124.6nm (225.5km)
Avg: 5knts
24hr: 119.6nm
Avg: 5knts
24hr: 119.6nm
Superb snorkel for the morning in lagoon of Sth Minerva then motored 20nm to Nth Minerva. Caught Tunas & GT enroute in smooth seas & sunny skys.
Fri May 20 7:11 2016 NZST
Speed: 0.o
knts GPS: 24 44s 179 30e
Weather: 3knts SE Sea Calm SE 30% cloud cover to the S.
Yet another great day reaching in beautiful conditions 08-14kn SE. Ran Code 0 all day and arrived Mineva Sth 1600. Caught 2 Tuna but Murfs knot gave one to the sharks.
Thu May 19 7:13 2016 NZST
Speed: 7.5
knts GPS: 24 44s 179 30e
Run: 179.3nm (324.5km)
Avg: 7.3knts
24hr: 175.9nm
Avg: 7.3knts
24hr: 175.9nm
Weather: 12knts SE Sea 1.5m SE 20% cloud cover.
Yet another great day & night reaching in beautiful conditions. 08-14kn SE. Ran Code 0 all day & thru the night.
Even though it boys only delivery a chick turned up on deck last night. I thought it was a Surefooted Big Breasted Brown Boobie but Tony W will have to confirm fm our photos. As you would expect, she shat all over the windows & left this morning without any thankyou. We are all defriending her from facebook.
ETA Sth Minerva 1600 .
Wed May 18 6:45 2016 NZST
Speed: 7.7
knts GPS: 27 15s 178 48e
Run: 181.4nm (328.3km)
Avg: 7.7knts
24hr: 185.7nm
Avg: 7.7knts
24hr: 185.7nm
Weather: 14knts at 165T SE 1.0m 20% cloud cover. Rain Cloud to NE of us.
Another great day reaching & running in beautiful conditions. 13-19kn Sw backing to SE. Poled out headsail till evening . All well onboard enjoying TV series "Black Sails". Dying breeze had us motoring again till 0230. SE 12-15kn gave us a great predawn starlit sail.
ETA Minerva tomorrow late.
Later at GHRadio sked time. We talked to Al. Fantastic radio signal.
Tue May 17 7:18 2016 NZST
Speed: 7.8
knts GPS: 29 44.827s 177 52.773e
Run: 177.1nm (320.6km)
Avg: 7.3knts
24hr: 175.3nm
Avg: 7.3knts
24hr: 175.3nm
Weather: 16knts at 144deg SW 2.5m . 20% cloud cover.
Turned Mtr off at 0830 ,Ran Code 0 doing 7kn in 8.5kn breese till 1230 then back to motoring in calm seas and fine skys. 0230 broke out code 0 again. All good onboard.
Mon May 16 7:03 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.2
knts GPS: 32 11.053s 176 57.522e
Run: 181.8nm (329.1km)
Avg: 7.6knts
24hr: 182.8nm
Avg: 7.6knts
24hr: 182.8nm
Weather: 7knts SW 2.5m swell from the SW with N 1.0m swel on top. 15% cloud cover.
Motored most of yesterday in calm seas & blue skys and last night throughout the most amazing mirror calm starlit night. 2.5m swells rolling fm SW in last 1/2 hr. Hope breese builds soon. All good onboard.
Sun May 15 7:11 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.2
knts GPS: 34 36.946s 175 45.281e
Weather: 12knts W 0.5m swell from the w 10% cloud coveron eastern horizon.
send@yit.co.nz
subj: Bravado
Nice 1st night at sea , motorsailed till 0500. All good onboard.
Sun May 15 7:11 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.2
knts
No position sent.
Weather: 12knts W 0.5m swell from the w 10% cloud coveron eastern horizon.
send@yit.co.nz
subj: Bravado
Had a pleasant night, with mostly light winds, motored a bit. 150mile day.
Sun May 15 7:11 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.2
knts GPS: 34 36.946s 175 45.281e
Run: 152.7nm (276.4km)
Avg: 11.1knts
24hr: 267.2nm
Avg: 11.1knts
24hr: 267.2nm
Weather: 12knts W 0.5m swell from the w 10% cloud coveron eastern horizon.
Nice 1st night at sea , motorsailed till 0500. All good onboard.
Sat May 14 17:28 2016 NZST
GPS: 36 37.788s 174 38.264e
Run: 16.6nm (30km)
Ignore last post. setting up stuff & pressed the oops button.
Great day , nice sunset, code 0 up, dinner in oven, crew happy
Sat May 14 9:44 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.2
knts GPS: 36 49.301s 174 49.090e
Run: 3.6nm (6.5km)
Weather: Wind W 2.4kn , 20% cloud.
Cleared customs & leaving NZ, stunning day , motoring over mirror calm seas, heading for Minerva.
Thu May 12 21:05 2016 NZST
GPS: 36 50.535s 174 45.537e
Final loading at Akl Viaduct for departure fm Auckland on Sat Morning heading Tonga via Minerva.
No blogs available for this yacht.
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SV Stylopora
SV Stylopora
Wed Nov 16 10:35 2016 NZDT
GPS: 27 27.214S 153 11.526E
Run: 11nm (19.9km)
Manly Marina - home. We're now ready and available for grandparent duties. :)
Supermoon at sunset
Moon rising over yacht Simpatico
The Supermoon - the next one in 2038
Sat Nov 12 3:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 27 30.4S 153 21.7E
Run: 15nm (27.2km)
Horsehoe Bay, Peel Island.
We've joined the RQYS Sail Cruising Group for this month's cruise. Lovely to catch up with friends.
After 6 months cruising in the Pacific and with no really bad weather we've had two storms in two nights. Saturday night with 40 knot winds that came around from the SW leaving us on a lee shore. Sunday night, a humdinger with NW winds. 60 knots wind from the NW and hail. This storm was something else and quite daunting. I hope it's a long time before I see those wind speeds again.
Before Saturday's storm
Saturday - clearing but raining on Stradbroke Is.
Saturday - after the storm
Saturday evening sundowners
Fri Nov 11 3:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 27 17.5S 153 23.8E
Run: 44.9nm (81.3km)
Sandhills, Moreton Island
Joined Scott & Rachel on Heemskirk and Laurie & Carolyn on Kea Lani for welcome home celebrations.
Fri Nov 4 3:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 26 41.207S 153 7.76E
Run: 73.7nm (133.4km)
Mooloolaba
Relaxing at Mooloolaba, visiting grandchildren, swimming in the surf.
Double Island Point Lighthouse - 1884
Arriving at Mooloolaba
Tue Nov 1 17:49 2016 NZDT
GPS: 25 37.791S 152 58.389E
Run: 8.1nm (14.7km)
Garry's Anchorage, Great Sandy Straits
We're anchored with an armada of boats making their way south from North Queensland and the Pacific islands. Just watched the Melbourne Cup on board Phase 2 - talk about back to Australia...
Tue Nov 1 0:48 2016 NZDT
GPS: 25 30.855S 152 57.259E
Run: 63nm (114km)
Anchored just before Sheridan Flats in the Great Sandy Straits - one step closer to home. We're anchored with a group of yachts waiting to cross the flats at high tide in the morning.
Sun Oct 23 3:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 24 45.603sS 152 23.282eE
Run: 95.9nm (173.6km)
Avg: 3.6knts
24hr: 85.2nm
Avg: 3.6knts
24hr: 85.2nm
After a last minute rush to beat a potentially nasty weather change, we arrived at the mouth of the Burnett River, Bundaberg just as the rain commenced. Out with the wet weather gear to anchor in the dark surrounded by a myriad of assorted navigation lights, shore lights and boat lights. Anchor down at 12.30am with time for at least 6 hours straight of sleep before moving to the marina and arranging for Australian Border Control for our formal clearance into Australia.
Our welcome back to Australia
More welcome to Australia
Sat Oct 22 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 23 48.1s 153 29.3e
Run: 141.2nm (255.6km)
Avg: 5.9knts
24hr: 141.2nm
Avg: 5.9knts
24hr: 141.2nm
Motoring at 6kn, heading 217 Winds 5kn variable. Seas 1m. 1000.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Fri Oct 21 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 26.7s 155 09.0e
Run: 27.3nm (49.4km)
Avg: 4.8knts
24hr: 116nm
Avg: 4.8knts
24hr: 116nm
Sailing at 6.5kn, heading 218 Winds 14kn ESE. Seas .5m. 1300 Very excited. Geoff turned the radio on the this morning and heard 4BU in Bundaberg. Not bad for 200NM from the coast.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Thu Oct 20 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 22 10.156s 155 27.349e
Run: 85.5nm (154.8km)
Avg: 3.6knts
24hr: 85.5nm
Avg: 3.6knts
24hr: 85.5nm
Anchored at Bird Islet in Wreck Reefs in 15kn SE winds. Clear water 3m deep with bommies. Very beautiful. 230NM from the Queensland coast. The water 1 mile away is over 3km deep.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Duality anchored at Bird Islet
Why is it called Bird Islet?
Hello! What are you doing here?
Cute baby
Hermit Crabs
More birds
Are we having fun yet?
Wed Oct 19 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 21 23.4s 156 29.4e
Run: 113.7nm (205.8km)
Avg: 19.8knts
24hr: 474.6nm
Avg: 19.8knts
24hr: 474.6nm
Motor sailing at 5.5kn, heading 219 Winds 9kn E. Seas .5m. 1130.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Tue Oct 18 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 20 14.9s 157 46.2e
Run: 51.6nm (93.4km)
Sailing at 5kn, heading 242 Winds 7kn E. Seas .5m. 1600.
Sailing with spinnaker. Catamaran Even Keels has been in sight all day. Nice to have company. Hope to be in Bundaberg over the weekend before the weather deteriorates.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Mon Oct 17 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 19 53.3s 158 28.0e
Run: 88.4nm (160km)
Avg: 3.7knts
24hr: 88.4nm
Avg: 3.7knts
24hr: 88.4nm
Anchored at Chesterfield Reef Winds 20kn SE. Seas flat. 0845.
After 48 hours of large swells on our beam and 25 to 30 knot winds, we bounced tired and relieved into Chesterfield lagoon along with the catamaran, Even Keels at 1030 today. Very pretty and we can't wait to explore - after we sleep.... Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Hello!
Very funny...
Very cute
Nice chatting - Bye!
Off for some dinner
Sun Oct 16 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 19 23.8s 159 43.2e
Run: 178.9nm (323.8km)
Avg: 7.5knts
24hr: 178.9nm
Avg: 7.5knts
24hr: 178.9nm
Sailing at 5kn, heading 242 Winds 26kn ESE. Seas 2m. 1700.
Tiring day battling the swell but better than yesterday, although lower speeds than yesterday's 7 to 8 knots. Not as exhilarating for Geoff but happier for me. Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Sat Oct 15 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 18 24.100s 162 14.700e
Run: 52.9nm (95.7km)
Avg: 28.6knts
24hr: 686.4nm
Avg: 28.6knts
24hr: 686.4nm
Sailing at 6kn, heading 229 Winds 18kn ESE. Seas 1m. 1400.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Fri Oct 14 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 18 02.227s 162 57.239e
Anchored at Ilot Huon with winds15kn E andsqually. A lovely place to catch up on some sleep. Ilot Huon is a large lagoon and just beautiful. The wind has died out and the lagoon is flat and glassy. We're surrounded by dozens of massive, amorous turtles and huge numbers of birds who are not the least bit frightened of us. As I was at the bow anchoring, a huge Booby hovered beside my head to check I was doing it correctly, then looked me in the eye and flew off. As we snorkeled this afternoon Geoff was joined by a large turtle. The birds have been taking turns at landing on different parts of the boat and posing for photos. My camera's been working non stop.. We plan to leave in the morning and if possible stop at Chesterfield Reef in a couple of days.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Personable Booby.
Amorous turtles
Happy turtles
A little privacy please!!
Birds at sunset
Wed Oct 12 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 16 54.650s 163 23.630e
Run: 151.7nm (274.6km)
Avg: 6.3knts
24hr: 151.7nm
Avg: 6.3knts
24hr: 151.7nm
Motor sailing at 6kn, heading 190 Winds 6kn ENE. Seas .5m. Noon.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Tue Oct 11 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 15 15.470s 164 53.864e
Run: 99.9nm (180.8km)
Avg: 26.6knts
24hr: 639.4nm
Avg: 26.6knts
24hr: 639.4nm
Sailing at 6kn, heading 268 Winds 17kn SSW. Seas 1m. Still waiting for the SE change. Still so far north that at this rate we will be lucky to hit Cooktown...
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Mon Oct 10 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 15 46.9s 166 53.9e
Run: 25.2nm (45.6km)
Avg: 6knts
24hr: 144nm
Avg: 6knts
24hr: 144nm
Sailing well at 4kn, course 270.
Winds 13kn SSW. Seas flat.
date: 10/10/2016
Thu Oct 6 3:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 15 32.255S 167 10.801E
Run: 117.7nm (213km)
Avg: 4.9knts
24hr: 117.7nm
Avg: 4.9knts
24hr: 117.7nm
Luganville, Espiritu Santo
Ah! Back to civilisation where all we have to worry about was weather forecasts and how to get our internet working. Drinks with friends, cook more meals for the trip and in a small way, help Jim beach 'Sweet Dreams' ready for more repairs repairs. 'Sweet Dreams' is a beautiful yacht and we wish Jim and his family well with their repairs. Unfortunately though, he has to beach her in Luganville to make more temporary repairs before sailing her to Brisbane 1000 miles away where there are suitable facilities to bring her back to her former state. Then 1000 miles back to his current home in Vanuatu!
The weather reports are conflicting but in spite of a circular low forming over Fiji, none of the forecasts are predicting strong or particularly adverse weather. We've been to the markets, packed the boat and paid our tab at Aore Resort so we plan to leave in the morning for Huon Reef at the top of New Caledonia, where we'll have a nap before sailing on to Bundaberg.
Good-bye to Vanuatu and her friendly people, beautiful scenery and fabulous sailing. Hello Australia and our family, friends - home!
The beautiful yacht, 'Sweet Dreams'
Ready for repairs
Sitting on the bottom
Wed Oct 5 3:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 13 52.442S 167 33.207E
Run: 11.9nm (21.5km)
Sola, Vanua Lava Island
Our return to Sola to formally clear out of Vanuatu at Customs and Immigration was a reminder of the challenges of travelling in Vanuatu. We'd previously confirmed in Luganville that we could clear out of Sola. We'd vowed never again to attempt to clear out on a Monday or Friday as we've been so often daunted by the seemingly never ending public holidays. Who would have anticipated one on a Wednesday?? We chatted with Ketty, the Secretary-General of the provincial government of Torba who we ran into on the beach. She advised us that Thursday and Friday were also most likely not going to work for clearing out. The long awaited and most auspicious signing of a trade agreement between the Solomon Islands and the Banks Group was happening on Thursday and Friday on the neighbouring island of Mota Lava. The policeman who organises passport stamping was there and not returning until Monday. Perhaps we would like to clear out in Luganville? Sure, it's only a 90 mile overnight, windward sail away!!! Ketty was, in fact very helpful and, on the off chance that he could help, directed us to the customs officer who was waiting at the air strip for a flight to Luganville. Sadly not, though.
With only a small sigh (we're becoming very laid back ourselves now), we returned to the boat. On the way we stopped at a lovely yacht, Sweet Dreams as we'd heard they'd been badly damaged after an altercation with a reef. Three days earlier, their navigation software had automatically upgraded itself. Jim, the skipper and owner had followed his previous track out of the bay at night only to find himself hard on a reef. He compared the new chart with the non-upgraded version on his back-up I-Pad. Shocked, he discovered a discrepancy of around .5km in the new chart that had now put his track over the reef. After three dramatic days, he and the crew from 'Field Trip', together with a local freighter pulled his yacht off the reef. Unfortunately a large hole was torn in the hull as it came off. After numerous complications, they made temporary repairs to get them back to Luganville. With high powered bilge pumps operating continually on 'Sweet Dreams', all three boats set off on a nerve-wracking but uneventful overnight return to Luganville.
Sun Oct 2 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 13 49.645s 167 22.934e
Run: 11.5nm (20.8km)
Waterfall (Leon) Bay, Vanua Lava Island
Colossal rocky cliffs indented with dark, gloomy caves and interspersed with waterfalls extend the length of the western Vanua Lava and were an amazing backdrop as we sailed comfortably along in a 15 knot breeze.
Mark and Hayley from 'Duality' were anchored on our waypoint when we arrived at Waterfall Bay with its Twin Waterfalls. We spent several happy days enjoying this idyllic anchorage with its white sandy beach, black sandy beach, and great snorkelling.
Mark and Hayley took us to an isolated, high waterfall about a mile north only to find a group of locals hunting there. We were excited to see what we thought was our first Megapode bird until we realised that it was actually dead and was going into the pot that night. The guided walk up to the pool at the bottom of the waterfall was spectacular and the locals were as usual very friendly. Afterwards, we cooled off with a game of frisbee in the pool at the bottom.
On arrival back at the twin waterfalls, Carolyne, from the local village was waiting to take us on a trek to the top of the twin falls. Ouch! Ok, we can do two waterfall walks in one day! Up and up we climbed again to more expansive views. These falls have a shallow pool at the top where one person can sit, waist deep in water and look down over the edge to the children in the swimming hole at the bottom, then over the rocky beach and way out to sea. After an exhausting hike including a visit to their irrigated taro gardens and to the new house that Carolyne and her husband are building, we paddled our kayak back to the boat only to jump off it for a refreshing swim before relaxing on the poop deck with a gin and tonic to watch the sun set on another glorious day.
This was our last village before clearing out of Vanuatu at Sola so we packaged up all of the trade goods we had left and presented them to Chief Jimmy to share amongst the villagers. He in return presented us with a farewell dinner, where as guests, we ate first while everyone else looked on. Afterwards, the family, both young and old, sang us a farewell song and waved us off for our next adventure. How easy it is to become attached to these very poor, but happy and hospitable new friends.
The anchorage
Caves and waterfalls
Hunting
The hunting party
Tonight's dinner
The first waterfall
Frisbee in the pool
Cool balance
Swimming at the twin falls
Over the top of the twin falls
Relaxed after our second climb
Beautiful twin falls
The top of the twin falls
Carolyne with her prawn traps
Carolyne's huge kitchen
Village childen
So long, farewell...
Sat Oct 1 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 13 49.558s 167 33.194e
Run: 26.4nm (47.8km)
Sola, Vanua Lava Island
Sola is the main administrative centre for Banks Group but in reality it's little more than a village with very few facilities and unfortunately for us, another rolly anchorage. We anchored for about five minutes and then moved to the northern section of the bay where, after avoiding some unexpected large rocks, we were happier to have strong wind and a lee shore, but no swell. Not feeling inclined to leave the boat (again), we left the following morning for Waterfall Bay on the Western side of the island.
Fri Sep 30 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 14 12.495s 167 34.196e
Run: 64.5nm (116.7km)
Avg: 27.5knts
24hr: 658.8nm
Avg: 27.5knts
24hr: 658.8nm
Lusa Lava, Gaua Island
Lusalava (also called Lesalav Bay) had a coral entry which we entered without difficulty, into a bay inundated by an uncomfortable rolly swell. Gaua has a live volcano which is inactive, but considered highly dangerous if it were to erupt. Around the eastern side is a large moon shaped lake which is luke warm towards the sea and boiling closer to the volcano. Apparently locals catch fresh water prawns in the warm section and take them to the hot water to cook. We hoped to do the three hour walk to the lake, passing the massive Siri Waterfall on the way. Large outrigger canoes would be waiting there to carry us across the lake through rare and exotic wildlife including the threatened Megapode bird, to arrive at a plateau where we would camp for the night. Neither of us were comfortable leaving the boat alone in the unprotected and uncomfortable anchorage surrounded by reef, so disappointed, we left the following morning for Vanua Lava Island.
Wed Sep 28 0:00 2016 NZDT
GPS: 15 00.666s 168 03.773e
Run: 25.6nm (46.3km)
Naone, Maewo Island.
Naone is our last stop before heading to the Banks group of islands 60NM to the north. Our plan was to anchor here overnight then leave for Gaua Island at midnight to arrive with the sun overhead at lunch time. We anchored in 10-12m of water clear enough to see the anchor chain trailing along the sandy bottom. At first glance, the land looked uninspiring and we had no information to tell us otherwise, but the first sound as we anchored was the raucous laughter of happy children. Out with the binoculars. There they were! Under the trees we found the small rocky entrance to a creek. The creek was surrounded by cascades. Playing in the cascades and on the rope that spanned it, there seemed to be hundreds of children. Wow! Of course, the dinghy which wasn't going to be launched was launched and we went in for a visit. By the time we landed, most of the children had gone for dinner. Donya, a lovely young lady with a 5 month old baby told us that all of the village children, together with the students at the local boarding school play in the cascades after school every day. You must go and see the waterfall as well, she told us. Great, a waterfall too! The walk to the waterfall the next day took us through the village gardens, all terraced and irrigated by a continuous flow of water from the falls. Growing happily were taro and coconut for export to Port Vila, yams, kumera, basil, bananas, papaya, spring onion, island cabbage; more than enough to support a sizeable village. We climbed onwards and upwards along logs over creeks, over rocks and through steps cut into the waterfall; until we stopped at a small crystal clear pool which disappeared into the base of a cave. Our guide and his three young friends told us we could swim in this beautiful oasis as a reward on our way down. A large swimming hole at the bottom of the falls looked inviting too, but we had an appointment with the view at the top. Climbing up the waterfall proper, we didn't stop to look back. The outstanding view at the top however, looked over the waterfall, into the large swimming hole beneath and then further down the mountain and out to sea where the mast of our boat was just peeping over the trees. It hit us that if we'd anchored 100m further south-west, the boat would have been framed perfectly in the photo and we'd have had the best photo of our trip. Aaagh! For those anchoring here in the future, here are waypoints that we think would put your boat in the best position. 15 0.720S 168 3.707E. We didn't move the boat and go back and check, although I wanted to...
The afternoon's shenanigans in the pool were enormous fun. An old WW2 American causeway covered by running water and slippery moss runs along the top of the cascades. Into it, the children ran squealing, then tried to slide the full width of the mossy road before falling or diving into the deeper water beyond. The only interruption was when one of the two cars in the village drove cross the causeway delivering passengers to or from the local airstrip. Later, Geoff tried to outpace a large pack of boys jumping from the cascade into the creek below. Who enjoyed it the most? Who came home starving, fell into bed and slept really well that night? Hmmm!!!
Our anchorage at Naone
View from the top of the waterfall - our mast just showing...
Swimming hole at the bottom of the waterfall
Looking out from the cave swim
Climbing right up the waterfall
Let's just slide across the mossy road and then dive into the pool beyond
The 'Big Kid Award' goes to...
Are we having fun yet?
Kids off the waterfall - the car needs to drive across the top.
Lots of helpers
Fri Sep 23 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 15 22.524S 168 07.988E
Run: 11.4nm (20.6km)
Asanvari - Maewo Island
Asanvari is a cruiser's paradise. Best of all, a straight forward entry - no coral or rocks to negotiate. Then clear, deep water where we could see our anchor eight metres down; a black sand beach to the left, a white sand beach to the right and a waterfall with swimming hole in the middle. A safe anchorage with flat water, fabulous snorkelling with deep crevasses, a lovely walk over the headland overlooking the yachts and a cave swim on the opposite side of the island - what more could we want? Well, friendly local villagers and a cafe where the set meal included fresh water prawns. To top it off, there were four other boats, all of whom we'd encountered at different anchorages previously. Hieracon (French), Bumpy Dog (Dutch and Chinese from New Zealand), Allure (Swiss-German) and Calista (Australian) provided an energetic and social gathering.
Geoff spent some time sorting out a water connection to the kitchen of the cafe and then scrounging parts for the gas hot plates of an enterprising village trying to start a new cafe. We spent five days of perfect weather relaxing and enjoying this idyllic spot before departing for the Banks Group of islands in the north.
Our anchorage at Asanvari
Freshwater prawns at the local cafe
Gathering at the waterfall
Churchgoers
Ready for the cave dive
Cave dive
Cave dive
The end of the cave
Unexpected audience at the end of the cave
Thu Sep 22 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 15 17.12452S 167 59.36393E
Run: 53.6nm (97km)
Lolowai - Ambae Island
We sailed across a shallow rocky entry between a high cliff and several large rocks; and into the caldera of an extinct volcanoe. It was an amazing experience and after anchoring, we sat on the back deck with a drink each, trying to adjust to spending the night in a volcanoe.
On shore the next morning, we came across Shirley, a New Zealand nurse who is working with a Rotary project refurbishing the Lolowai Hospital. This is the only hospital for the three islands of Ambae, Pentecost and Maewo. Shirley showed us the work they are doing and the improvements were huge. The buildings not yet upgraded were in very poor state with holes in the ceiling, few lights, no fans, and paint that has been there since 1930. Electricity is very hit and miss and rarely operational. The dentist's chair was a nightmare. The upgraded sections had changes to the layout, freshly painted walls, lights and fans. Connection to a large bank of solar panels is nearly complete. The windows sported bright new curtains. The mood lifted dramatically. The best building seemed to be the reasonably new cafe which sits on the hillside with a lovely view over the bay. We enjoyed our teabag and cup of Nescafe with Shirley and her co workers, a wonderful group of people who were working away in very hot weather and making a huge difference. Good on you Shirley and co.
Lolowai entrance
Shirley & co
Ambae at sunset
Tue Sep 20 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 15 22.398S 167 11.441E
Run: 11.4nm (20.6km)
Aore Island/Ratua Island/Palikulo Bay/Oyster Island - Espiritu Santo
The great white hunter has boarded the jet en route to Australia, the fish of Vanuatu have taken a collective sigh of relief, and Geoff and I are planning the next leg of our cruise through Vanuatu.
We welcomed Ann and Bruce on board at Aore Resort and immediately departed for Ratua Island just south of Aore. Bruce is a keen fisherman and we were looking forward to picking up some tips from him. Fishing in Vanuatu is restricted by village ownership of reefs, as well as by the limited fish available in many places due to overfishing. We did our best to fish in the correct places and caught only enough fish for our meals. We did hope though, that we could catch something big to share with a local village as they catch mostly small, inshore fish and welcome yachties arriving with something bigger. We didn't manage the big one, but had lots of fun catching our daily feed.
The weather was beautiful all week and we snorkelled the reefs outside Ratua Island, Palikulo Bay and Oyster Island. Ann and I found the elusive (for us) wreck of a WW2 fighter plane at Oyster Island while Geoff and Bruce snorkelled the outer reef and the larger bay outside the island.
Another highlight was the kayak versus outrigger canoe derby. A very friendly local family in Palikulo Bay agreed to exchange their outrigger canoe for our kayak so we see how the other half paddled. The experiment was a laugh a minute on both sides. Bruce is a very tall man and he was perched on the outrigger as though it were a toy. One of the young girls sat face to face with her sister in the front bay of the kayak resulting in some shenanigans as they both tried to paddle. Geoff and their father certainly got some speed up as they sped across the anchorage together in our kayak. That night, we joined the family for some kava at a local festival and then shared lap lap, chicken and chocolate brownie on our boat the following night.
On Saturday, we were up early with our packed lunch ready for the Millennium Cave Tour and were organised to be collected at Club Nautique, near our anchorage. Club Nautique was a well-known yacht club in Palikulo Bay and was blown away by a cyclone in the 1980's. It was never rebuilt due to ownership disputes but the concrete slab is still there and everyone still refers to the location as Club Nautique. The cave tour was amazing if more demanding than we expected. Our taxi took us high into the hills and deposited us at a small village, from which we negotiated a muddy track and a high bamboo bridge to the further village of Vundspef, where the real trek began. The fit young group of young French couples with their guide were the first to leave and set a cracking pace - we didn't see them again until the end of the day. The four of us, with the husband and wife crew from the Swiss yacht 'Allure' made up the geriatric group. We followed in the young group's footsteps slipping ingloriously down the muddy slopes, climbing down steep ladders that clung to the steep cliffs, and puffing our way up steep, mossy waterfalls. The ground was brown, muddy and slippery but the landscape was green and lush, with a large variety of gingers, palms and other plants which we were shown by our guides on the way. In one of the photos you can see Ann with a 'velcro' plant stuck to her top. We scrambled over rocks in flowing water for the full six to seven hundred metres of the cave, the walls of which soared fifty to eighty metres over our heads. Bats and swallows flew overhead and crickets clung to the walls. Further on, we found prawns climbing the walls and fish swimming around our legs.
Earthquake - Once through the cave we were sitting on a rock in the sun when they put on an earthquake for us that measured 6.0 on the Richter scale. How strange to feel the earth vibrating beneath us and how unnerving to imagine the soaring stone walls beside us collapsing. After our earth shattering experience, it was into the water (not too cold) for a gentle float downstream through ravines 120 metres high on either side. Some of us thought this was the best part of the trip. It was certainly the easiest and the most fun. The climb out was short, but nearly straight up through waterfalls and very steep ladders. We returned to the village through their gardens of very healthy corn, bok choy, island cabbage, taro, manioc and numerous other exotic vegetables, and all agreed it was a day of surprises and something we'll always remember.
The week with Ann and Bruce passed all too quickly and before we knew it we were delivering them to the taxi for the airport. It was a happy and memorable interlude in our trip. Ann, I hope you get time to read your book now that you're home and as they say in the book, Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy: Bruce - thanks for all the fish!
Ann, Bruce and Geoff in Palikulo Bay
The biggest fish
Sunset in Palikulo Bay
Canoe derby
Unusual technique
Faster than the outrigger, but not as stable
Intrepid explorers
Millennium Cave Tour
There must be a mighty climb after all this down hill
Down, down, down
Millennium Cave
Swimming through the ravines
And out again..
Anchored in lovely weather off Oyster Island Resort
Recuperating from a big day climbing
Fri Sep 9 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 15 32.328S 167 10.782E
Run: 5.7nm (10.3km)
Aore Resort, Luganville.
We're on a mooring here again while we wash, clean and restock before Ann and Bruce arrive on Tuesday. A lovely place to hang around.
Aore Resort
Wed Sep 7 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 15 29.495S 167 14.975E
Run: 9.1nm (16.5km)
Palikulo Bay, Espiritu Santo.
We're on our way back to Luganville to meet Ann and Bruce. The weather's lovely and the water here crystal clear so we've explored the bay by dinghy and the shore by foot. Uneventful but very enjoyable.
Paradise
Tug boat washed up in a cyclone
Another wreck
Wreck
Repairs on the run
There goes the sun
Mon Sep 5 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 15 22.398S 167 11.441E
Run: 9nm (16.3km)
Oyster Island, Espiritu Santo.
The entry into the Oyster Island lagoon has a notoriously shallow entrance dotted with coral and is only passable (for us) on a half to full tide, so we anchored in an outer bay to await the tide. There are some 'beacons' made of pipe which lie flat on the water at low tide and these were shown on Navionics together with a series of 'virtual' marks. It was all very unclear, the coral so big and water level so low, that we took our Samsung tablet and Dad's old lead line in the dinghy to check the route first. Once that was done, the marks all proved to be perfect and with a minimum of .3m under our keel on the way through, we were soon anchored in front of a lovely sandy beach in front of Oyster Island Resort. Between this and Turtle Bay Resort, a short dinghy sail away at the end of the lagoon, I've been quite spoiled for my birthday.
We've been the only boat at most of our anchorages so far and have wondered where the other boats were. What happened to the stories of catching up with the same boats (and their crews) regularly along the way and sharing happy hour at exotic locations? Thankfully we've found them in Santo, between Luganville and Oyster Island, and we can understand why they're here - these are perfect cruising waters. Wonderful to see the crews of Big Galah, Duality, Bold Spirit and Chi with the occasional glimpse of Phase 2.
Oyster Bay Resort
A great place for a dinghy sail
Snorkeling
Snorkeling
No bakery here
Big Galah waiting to enter 'the leads'
Big Galah waiting for the queue of boats exiting
Sun Sep 4 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 15 29.395S 167 14.975E
Run: 41.3nm (74.8km)
Palikulo Bay, Espiritu Santo.
We rounded the point into Palikulo Bay and searched for the buoy and stick that the guidebook said marked the two most difficult points between the coral maze into the bay. No, of course they weren't there and it was a confusing and difficult entry. The bay was lovely with white sandy beaches and local children swimming, laughing and making the most of the last day of school holidays. We snorkeled directly off the boat and found lots of healthy coral and small colourful fish.
Anchorage: Very protected once you navigate the coral. Not to be done without good overhead sun. A short taxi ride to either Luganville or Million Dollar Point.
Old wreck of a tug - apparently Vanuatu's only one
Old tug
Sat Sep 3 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 15 20.142S 166 39.080E
Run: 20.1nm (36.4km)
Wusi, Espiritu Santo.
We awoke to a lovely morning and departed early for Wusi, only 16NM and just one more cape away. Once we left the bullets behind in Lisburn anchorage, the wind dropped and we motored to Wusi. A substantial swell rolled into this anchorage, knocked the boat around and then crashed onto the beach where we needed to land our dinghy. At the end of the day, we voted for wind over roll, and after visiting the village, returned to another night of bullets at Lisburn.
The people of Wusi were friendly but didn't speak a lot of English so communication was difficult. We managed to inspect a small number of pots made by two of the women and bought three. The village was fronted by a hot black sand beach and was very dry. It seemed quite impoverished and we ended up trading assorted clothes, sunglasses and other goods for some pamplemous, before getting very wet launching our dinghy and returning to our boat. Then 16NM back to Lisburn and its bullets.
Sailing beside the west coast mountains
Wusi village
My new pot
Unloading the groceries - Wusi style
Fri Sep 2 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 15 36.027S 166 46.597E
Run: 26.6nm (48.1km)
Lisburn Anchorage, Espiritu Santo.
The remote village of Wusi on the rugged western side of Santo is the only place in Vanuatu making pottery, and the villagers continue to use their traditional methods. The final step sees the pots cured directly in fire rather than in a kiln. I was keen to see their pottery and Geoff suggested we sail there so we could buy some for my birthday. With a distance of thirty miles, and winds predicted at 14kn from the south east, we anticipated an easy sail. As we turned into the channel between Aore Island and Malo Island though, the waves began to grow and the boat started to roll. By the time we passed South Cape we were wondering about our sanity, but by the time we rounded Cape Mataavea we were certain we had a screw loose. The swell rolled in just behind our beam with strange in-between waves caused by currents around the capes and affected by wind gusts driven from the mountains lining up along Santo's south and eastern coasts. Finally rounding into the bay at Lisburn and expecting refuge, we were shocked to be hit by 30kn gusts and white caps right across the bay. Eventually we settled into an anchorage very close to shore where the water was quite flat, but we spent the night being hammered by 20 to 25 knot bullets.
Winds funnel through these mountains
Rocky headland at Lisburn Anchorage
A lovely sunset after we settled in
Tue Aug 30 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 15 36.700S 167 10.551E
Run: 5.1nm (9.2km)
Ratua Private Island - Espiritu Santo
Karen and Leigh spent their honeymoon here and were evacuated because of the imminent arrival of Cyclone Pam. They encouraged us to visit because of its beauty and interesting accommodation. The buildings commenced life in a small village in Bali in the early 1800's and were purchased intact, dismantled and transported here in 2005 to become a high quality, eco resport with all profits going to local education.
We'd been here for only a couple of hours when Mark and Hayley arrived on 'Duality' with friends on a two week visit from Australia. We spent the afternoon paddling through the passage between the resort and Aore Island where a very neat and prosperous Seventh Day Adventist village stands. Returning a little tired Geoff was easily talked into going ashore to watch the sunset on one of their lounges. Mr and Mrs Duality and friends arrived around five and we moved to the informal lounge area set up on the beach for a drink and catch-up. In honor of Karen and Leigh, we stayed for a enjoyable dinner serenaded by a local string band.
Anchorage: This anchorage is well protected by the island to the east, the reef to the south and Aore Island to the north. The bottom is mostly sand with some fairly visible reef and the western extremity is marked with a buoy. There are two free moorings in 10m water available for visiting yachts. The moorings are fairly close together. The lines to the bottom are fairly tight and there are no floating ropes attached, but once moored, we enjoyed our position on the southern one. The resort welcomes yachties but it's an exclusive resort and they expect good behaviour.
Balinese bungalows
Beach lounge
All ready for sunset
Gorgeous sunset
Catch-up at the beach lounge
Fri Aug 26 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 15 32.238S 167 10.782E
Run: 42.8nm (77.5km)
Aore Resort - Luganville - Espiritu Santo
Our visit to Luganville was planned as a stopover to stock up our groceries, buy outboard fuel, dispose of our rubbish and most of all do our washing. Washing has been tricky because it uses such a lot of water and we've not really had any to spare except for what we catch in the dinghy. Sounds terrible, I know, but because the bung sits slightly above the bottom of the boat, any grit settles to the bottom and the rest actually comes out very clean. Geoff attaches a hose to the bung and drains it off into containers. I wouldn't fancy drinking it, but it's been a bonus for the washing.
Aore resort is very friendly and we picked up a mooring right out front in 25m water which fell away very quickly to a reef with poor coral but quite decent fish (for snorkeling - no fishing allowed here). We ate at the resort, used their pool and just relaxed (from our strenuous lifestyle) and pretended we were on holidays - oh, yes, we are on holidays. Unfortunately they no longer do laundry or rubbish disposal so we took our dinghy across the passage to Beachfront Resort which also welcomes yachties, although it doesn't have as nice an anchorage. It does however do laundry, take rubbish and have the fastest wifi in Vanuatu (in my opinion).
The Big Galah arrived and we had sundowners with Jim and Sharon. Thanks to Robyn Willey for letting them know to look out for us. The Galah is a big and lovely 50ft catamaran that would make for a very comfortable holiday anywhere. We have to admit to being just a little envious...
Clothes clean, rubbish gone, food stocked up and feet getting itchy, we're ready to move on. Because of the stronger winds expected over the next two weeks, we've decided to visit the western side of Santo via Ratua Island.
Jim and Sharon picking us up to go shopping
Sat Aug 20 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 26.519S 167 47.039E
Run: 6.9nm (12.5km)
Lakatoro - Port Stanley - Malekula.
A beautiful spinnaker sail with 15kn winds from the SE. Port Stanley is a challenging anchorage with reefs extending for long distances straight out into the bay, but we found a nice spot not far from the village of Lakatoro which is the main administrative centre for Malekula. Our main reasons for visiting Lakatoro were to withdraw money from their ATM and refill our gas bottles. Sadly the ATM only works for local accounts and the bank couldn't help us either, so we counted our few remaining vatu, visited the market and bought enough veges, eggs and meat for a few days until we could sail to Luganville. The gas refill turned out to be an exchange; which we didn't want because we didn't want to lose our brand new gas cylinder. Geoff was happier though when he found out that they were exchanging our 4.5kg cylinder for a 6.5kg one - which luckily just fitted into our gas locker.
On our first day here we were visited by a cheeky bunch of four children in an outrigger canoe. It was mid-term break and they were looking for some excitement, so we were it. Over several days they brought us mandarins, oranges, pamplemous, paw paws, fish, bait (hermit crab bodies) and coconuts. We, in turn gave them story books, writing books, clothes and caps. Full of spirits, they were particularly keen to inspect the boat so climbed aboard, checked out their village through the binoculars, ate some biscuits and made themselves right at home. On one visit they saw me sitting on the stern from some distance and sang as they paddled - quite the comedians.
The Naiint Big Namba's first cultural festival at Mae turned out to be an event to remember. The purpose of the festival was to encourage the young people of the village to become involved in, and learn more about their heritage. Villagers not participating were encouraging from the sideline. The dances were traditional grade making ceremonies and two had apparently never been performed in public before. The devil dance had the children all screaming in mock terror. Different coloured body paint and decorations were used for different dances requiring some frantic back-stage preparations. The drummers played the tam tams until they should have been exhausted but continued on. The dancers, all strong and fit, stamped their feet and the noise from the nut pods tied around their ankles filled the air as they thumped faster and faster, louder and louder, to the beat of the drums. We were enthralled.
We tourists were obviously invited to raise funds, but because everyone in the village was there as well, we felt we were involved in an important part of their lives rather than watching a performance with the sole purpose of raising money. In between the dances we learned to weave mats, make kava (men only), make laplap and start a fire with just wood. Geoff had a go at this one and it was announced over the pa system that the Australian tourist lightem fire. Yeh! I'm starting to understand Bislama. We were warmly welcomed and we would recommend this festival to anyone visiting Malekula in August - it was certainly a highlight of our trip.
Spinnaker sail
Canoe crew
Fun and games
Singing along
Double trouble
Berthing at the Litslits wharf
Big Nambas' dance
Young Nambas
Big Nambas' dance
Change of costume
Warriors
Technology comes to Vanuatu
Warriors with paddles
Fire starting demonstration
Photo shoot
Not sure about these crowds...
Big Namba women
The smallest dancer
Mat weaving demonstration
Instructions on fire lighting
I can do this
Yeh! I did it!
Grating coconut
Thu Aug 18 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 31.840S 167 49.782E
Run: 4.3nm (7.8km)
Peskarus Village - Uliveo Island - Maskelyne Islands - Kidnapped! Political prisoners...
As we were motoring out of the Maskelynes, we were hailed by three local men in a tinnie. Keith was hoping to be elected to a position on Malekula local government and needed a photo of himself for both ID and future advertising. Because the printer at the school was out of ink he would have had to go to Port Vila or Luganville unless we could assist. We were happy to help - hey, we don't have any appointments. Keith promised to show us somewhere good to anchor while we organised the photo, so we followed him in his dinghy; and we followed; and followed, asking each other where he was taking us. We passed several suitable anchorages and it took so long that we joked about being kidnapped. Finally we ended up back at our previous anchorage at Sakau Island. Keith and his friends came aboard and after we lent him one of Geoff's shirts, we took some photos and printed them for him. The whole process took some time and during the discussions waiting for the printer to do its thing, we agreed to anchor at Keith's village of Peskarus for a night or two. With Keith at the bow as guide (or kidnapper?), we tied his big tinny to our stern, departed for Uliveo Island and hoped he knew what he was doing. We passed close to two exposed reefs covered by breaking waves and crossed half a mile of massive rolling waves, all the time wondering whether the big dinghy would stay upright. Keith asked for our walkie talkie headsets, and installed at the bow, talked Geoff through a narrow entrance with breaking water on both sides and a minimum of 1.5m under our keel. He led us all the way into a lovely u-shaped bay enclosed by reef that we would never have found on our own. It was certainly not shown as an anchorage in any of our cruising guides, and both Navionics and our plotter showed it has very shallow at all tides.
Keith invited us home to meet his family and gave us a delicious mud crab for our help. We were taken on a two hour walk around the island and through the three villages, passing a small Chinese owned sea cucumber processing plant, a locally owned coconut oil soap factory and several groups of men making kava for the evening's session. We walked along one of the best roads in Vanuatu with no traffic - there are no cars here. The road had lush tropical gardens to the edge for most of the way around the island. Geoff was invited to the kava bar both nights and I was told quite politely that I could wait on the boat. Men only...
Did Geoff enjoy the kava nights? Here's his version:
Kava is an interesting concoction but am I about to become a raving convert? Well no. It has the consistency of muddy water, tastes like radish mixed with celery and is skulled in one not so thirst quenching gulp. It was interesting talking to the local men about how they make it from the kava plant but it's really a cordial and not brewed. Anyway that's what they have so I guess you get used to it. The Kava Bar opens at 4.30pm and closes when there is no more Kava or drinkers about. It's cheap at 100 vatu ($1US) per round but that seems to be its sole redeeming feature - at least in my experience.
Our kidnapper
Happy children at Peskarus
Making kava for the kava bar
Dinner
Local boat building
Wed Aug 17 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 28.126S 167 49.027E
Run: 2.2nm (4km)
Maskelyne Islands - Gaspard Bay - 2.
With a change of wind direction in the morning we motored back to Gaspard Bay to search for the elusive dugongs. This time, they were more sociable and continued to show themselves throughout the day. We quietly paddled across to the shore to get closer and I slid quietly into the water with my underwater camera, but they were camera shy and disappeared to the opposite end of the bay, not to return until I was safely out of their water and onto the boat. This was a fabulous day and an experience that we will always remember.
Dugong
Quick - another one!
Disappearing act
Mon Aug 15 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 29.875S 167 48.350E
Run: 2.2nm (4km)
Sakau Island - Vanbuai Bay - Maskelyne Islands
Our next anchorage at Sakau Island was flat with no wind and because of the deep water we were anchored very close to shore - very nice! We avoided a buoy in the bay when we anchored but discovered later when it drifted closer to us that it was attached to a very long rope. A family on shore explained to us that no one lived on the island because of rising sea water, although their village's gardens remained and they paddled over in their dugout canoe daily to work them. The family was camping there overnight because the local trading boat, 'Big Sista' was due in at 3am and yes, she'd be using the errant buoy. As 'Big Sista' is a steel catamaran about 70ft long and carries both passengers and freight we thought it prudent to move further away from their buoy. With reef on both sides though there wasn't a lot of room, but we did our best and were more comfortable with our new position.
Local boats, both paddle and motor, arrived throughout the evening and partied on the beach while they awaited the arrival of the freighter. At 3am we were startled awake by bright light coming through the windows of our cabin. What the!!!! Yes, 'Big Sista' had arrived - all solid 70 feet of her and no more than 20 metres away with three monstrous spot lights aimed solidly at our boat. Once we recovered from the shock, we sat on deck and watched the proceedings, after all we had a very good vantage point. Two tinnies were unloaded by a crane and loads of people and goods went backwards and forwards for about half an hour and then it was all over as quickly as it began. 'Big Sista' threw her mooring and motored off towards her next stop and immediately every other boat in the bay either zoomed or quietly paddled off to their respective villages - all without navigation lights!
Anchored at Sakau Island
Close to the upside down car
Watch out for cars in the water
Crab holes by the hundreds
Coming to meet 'Big Sista'
Sun Aug 14 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 28.050S 167 48.825E
Run: 28.4nm (51.4km)
Gaspard Bay - Maskelyne Islands.
This is a pretty part of Vanuatu made up of a group islands on the southern tip of Malekula Island. The main entrance is protected by reefs and there are numerous reefs inside to trap the careless sailor.
We anchored in a recommended spot in windy Gaspard Bay with the sole aim of seeing dugongs. After a very windy night and with no sightings we gave up on the dugongs to leave for a more protected anchorage, only to have five of them surface around us as we left - how contrary! We both voted to return on our way out of the Maskelynes a few days later.
Fri Aug 12 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 43.68S 168 8.693E
Run: 40.1nm (72.6km)
Avg: 7knts
24hr: 168.9nm
Avg: 7knts
24hr: 168.9nm
Revolieu Bay - Epi Island - revisited.
We were a little concerned about our reception back at Revolieu having left in the middle of the night when we'd promised to be ashore the following morning to prepare for lap lap. However, we were greeted warmly and everyone understood our departure as the bay was very rough on the morning of our disappearance. Ruth was the only one at home when we arrived and she told us that the five year taboo on the reef had been lifted for two weeks; and that everyone else was at the beach harvesting Trochus shells. We made our way through the large family garden to the beach and received a great welcome and an offer to stay for lunch.
The processing of these sea snails was a family event with the young men diving the reef from outrigger canoes and everyone else helping to cook, clean, eat and pack. We tried to pull out weight and got stuck into the cleaning; first banging the cooked shell continuously onto a log until the snail fell out, then removing its guts & messy bits; and finally washing the edible portion in sea water. Of course it seemed that it was one for me, one for the pot with some of the helpers but as the first harvest in five years, it was a special occasion.
There's no waste in this process - the snail is eaten, the messy bits are fed to the pigs and the shells are sold to China for a good price. There's a world-wide reduction in Trochus stocks but it seems to me that if everyone monitored their stocks the way these people do, there would be no problem. Their solution is simple. They only collect them for a short period every few years when the stocks are well up and even then they have a size restriction which we saw being complied with.
Betty and the other children were on the beach with their own little process. The young children were catching and preparing hermit crabs for bait and the older children were fishing. Between them they independently caught, cleaned and cooked their own lunch. I got to cuddle a couple of the toddlers and they loved the same teddy bear game that our grandchildren love - sniff, sniff.. One cute little boy eventually got brave enough to touch my skin and then couldn't stop doing it - very funny.
They've made us very welcome and they have so little, but whilst there are obviously things that we can and will do to help them, we haven't felt in anyway pressured. At the end of the day they gave us some more veges from their prolific garden and we gave them some clothes, fish hooks and baking powder, then exchanged contact details. It was sad to go, and we hope to see them again, but it is time for the Maskelyne Islands and then up to Luganville to meet up with Ann and Bruce.
Cooking the Trochus shells
Trochus shells - sea snails
Cooked snails
Cleaning them
The children cooking their lunch
Wed Aug 10 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 08.8S 168 06.6E
Run: 29.7nm (53.8km)
Avg: 6.4knts
24hr: 153.6nm
Avg: 6.4knts
24hr: 153.6nm
Hot Water Bay - Ambrym Island.
We sailed across the top of Ambrym and stared into a massive, billowing cloud of fine ash and vapour that spread towards the southern tip of Pentecost twenty miles away and originated at the top of Ambrym's twin volcanoes. Our anchorage for the night was well protected and because of the steep slope of the shore, very close to the black sand beach. We were disappointed though that there was no view at all of the volcanoes as we'd read that at anchor we'd be able to see their glow quite clearly at night. After dinner, the half-moon lit up the sky and we almost gave up on seeing anything at all, however about 9.00pm it was all there - two deep orange glows that rose and fell in time to the volcanoes eruptions. All lights off and the boat in darkness, we sat on deck with a bar of chocolate and watched the entertainment.
Ash and vapour cloud
The twin volcanoes
Volcanoe sunset
Misty morning
Local bus to Craigs Cove
Cattle race for transport via boat
To market. To market.
Tue Aug 9 21:21 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 26.455S 167 47.044E
Run: 0.1nm (0.2km)
Planter Point - Port Sandwich - Malekula Island.
Our stay in Port Sandwich has been quiet. The anchorage is as flat as can be, it's been overcast & rainy, and we've spent our time doing some easy jobs around the boat. This is the first time in ages we've been anchored with other boats and we have nine of them so it's been fun chatting to some other cruisers and seeing where they've been. The highlight, though has been The Rainbow Store which is a small shop at Planters Point operated by the very helpful Rock and Noella who cater primarily for the yachts who anchor here. They bake fresh bread on site every Monday, Wednesday and Friday and get eggs in from Port Vila on the inter-island trader, 'Big Sista' every second day. They will also provide fresh water when their reticulated water is working or if not you can leave your containers and they'll fill them for you when it comes on again. This friendly couple set up their shop to service visiting yachts and aim to be your on-site advisers in all things local. This is an excellent anchorage and bullet proof from any direction. If you are sailing this way, do drop in and pay them a visit.
Planter Point anchorage
A walk in the country
Hmmm! Which way?
Relaxing afternoon
Rainbow Store
Noella & Rock, Rainbow Store
Thu Aug 4 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 16 43.622S 168 08.751E
Run: 26.7nm (48.3km)
Revolieu Bay - Epi Island.
We anchored using the most conservative waypoints in the Tusker Guide and with the gloomy, overcast weather couldn't have managed without them. We anchored in 8 metres of crystal clear water, tucked in behind a long reef in a large and pretty bay with black sand beaches.
There are numerous villages here and we found ourselves adopted by the Sarginson family who were as keen to hear about our lives as we were to hear about theirs. Weackly and Janet gave us a guided tour of their large garden and gave us samples of just about everything we passed. Weackly picked a cacao fruit off a tree for us to taste. Who knew that there are a heap of seeds inside the 5 inch fruit and if you suck them they taste like lollies?
On Friday, Weackly, Janette and their 14 year old daughter Betty joined us for lunch on the boat. Betty immediately asked if she could climb the mast so after lunch Geoff put the harness on her and sent her up as far as the spreaders. We sat around on the foredeck in the shade chatting for some time and enjoying the breeze after a very hot day and then joined Betty for a swim off the boat until the weather looked like changing and we returned them to shore with the agreement that we'd come back in at 8am Saturday to help prepare for a lap lap dinner on that night. Very excited.
The weather certainly changed and by 6pm we were rolling from gunwale to gunwale with saucepans rattling in cupboards, creaks and groans from all sorts of places and in spite of our expectations it did not get better after high tide. We discussed leaving several times but didn't want to break our promise to go ashore the next day. Eventually we faced the fact that it was not going to improve and I was seasick at anchor for the first time ever, so we decided to go around the island to Lamen Bay and then return the next day if possible. Great Plan! The swell in Lamen Bay was also atrocious and much more exposed so we sailed on for another five hours to the protected waters of Port Sandwich on Malekula Island, dropped anchor and both slept for the afternoon. We hope to return to Revolieu Bay via Ambrym later in the week if the weather permits.
Weackley
Betty
Cocoa Bean
The real cocoa bean
Early morning fishing
On the way home
Fruit and veg topped up
Wed Aug 3 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 02.837S 168 22.301E
Run: 48.5nm (87.8km)
Sulua Bay - Emae Island.
Anchored here on our way to Epi. It was a fabulous sail of six hours with 15 to 20kn on a reach with the sumlog showing between 6 and 8 kn for most of the trip. This is a very pretty anchorage and easy to find your way into. We had an easterly wind which should have been perfect but once the tide came in it became rolly and too uncomfortable to spend another night.
This tiny island has 5 villages and was totally decimated in Cyclone Pam 18 months ago. Some of their crops are recovering but they are still struggling - apparently a new coconut tree takes 7 years to bear fruit. We swapped some veges in exchange for some tins of chicken, packets of beans and a solar phone charger. Yes, they all have mobile phones now that Digicel has installed towers on every island and infiltrated the country with cheap phones.
On our way back we met four young girls on their way home from school and gave them the four tennis balls I had in my backpack. They were very excited but our guide insisted that they needed to bring back a gift for us the following morning. We've found the trading to be quite difficult and are never sure how much to trade and whether we're taking the food out of their mouths. Promptly at 7am the next morning, however, the girls turned up with a paw paw, bananas and some sugar cane in the company of Sophia's mother who had heard about the solar chargers and was also keen to own one. Our self-appointed guide, Esso, also ended up with a solar charger. Thanks to Kris and Darren for passing on these perfect gifts left over from their trip her last year.
Emae Island
Emae fruit
Mon Aug 1 17:57 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 44.801S 168 18.812E
Havannah Harbour, Efate
Anchored in Havannah Harbour ready for the trip north to Emae Is tomorrow.
Sat Jul 30 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 44.801S 168 18.812E
Run: 0.2nm (0.4km)
Mele Bay - Efate.
We moved from Port Vila to Mele Bay to celebrate Vanuatu's Independence Day long weekend. It seems that music is the go for this weekend and we've been anchored in a beautiful bay surrounded by music from both the Beach Bar and Hideaway Island Resort as well as from the locals who are rightly proud of their 36th anniversary of independence and had a HUGE amplified sound system over which VERY LOUD music of all types from rap to gospel blasted on and off for 3 days, nights and early mornings. We commenced the weekend ourselves by joining Warren and Debbie on Friday night for an evening of Fire Dancing.
Independence Day has been very big here. Sadly we missed the flag raising on Sat morning because we didn't know it was on, but everyone was out in their finest with many, including Geoff dressed in Vanuatu shirts and carrying Vanuatu flags. It was quite infectious and we joined in where we could.
Jacinta in her Vanuatu colours
Happy Independence Day
Children at Ifira Island
Hideaway Island (Mele)
Posting cards to our grandchildren
Reasonable coral with a wide variety of fish
Warren - valet parking at Hideaway Is
Fri Jul 29 23:05 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 44.601S 168 18.812E
Mt Yasur Volcano - Tanna Island.
A must see experience. We wanted to sail to Tanna but the winds were not favourable and we ended up in Port Vila which is very nice, but - no volcano. Since I have never seen a volcano, I really wanted to go to Tanna. We discovered that there is a regular flight from Vila to Tanna taking in the volcano tour with an overnight stop. And yes, it was expensive but worth every cent. We departed on a 'flying coffin' otherwise known as an Islander twin engine aircraft (seats 10). Fortunately Dave, our Kiwi pilot, was very competent and quickly put us at ease. Di scored the jockey seat beside the pilot on the return trip and hasn't stopped raving about what an incredible experience that was (no she did not fiddle with the instruments).
Only 1 hour from Vila and we were flying over Mt Yasur, the Tanna volcano which was quite spectacular, before landing at Tanna airport. The airport is on the west side of the island though, a 1.5 hour bumpy 4WD ride to the volcano. The first glimpse of the volcano is through the ash plains on the leeward side which stretched for miles and to our surprise the route to the Volcano is across the Ash plains - no sign posts. At the base of the mountain we were entertained with a traditional island dance and the obligatory safety talk which is summarised as 'You be careful!' Then another 20 minute 4WD climb up the mountain bouncing around like kids in the tray of a twin cab ute.
The base camp is a short climb to the rim of the caldera & the first glimpses of the erupting volcano were breathtaking. The first thing we noticed was the eruption shock wave followed by a deep rumble and then the fiery eruption which was just spectacular. The tour guides took us to 3 vantage points offering a different perspective of the volcano but the best spot was kept till last when we stood on the southern rim peering into the 'gates of hell'. It's easy to see where the idea of Hades came from as we were treated to one eruption after the other for over 2 hours, each becoming subsequently larger until we wondered where it would end. At no time did it feel really unsafe even though at times we were showered with small flakes of ash. The experience was both mesmerising and awesome in every sense of the word. If you come to Vanuatu and don't see this, you will have really missed out!!!!
The crater of Mt Yasur
Mt Yasur - ash plain
Traditional dance - Mt Yasur
We ran into Scott & Jasmin there...
First, the climb!
First glimpse - wow!
Geoff - out on a limb
2 tubes erupting at once
The Gates of Hell
I sat up front beside the pilot
Geoff squished in the back seat
Wed Jul 27 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 44.601S 168 18.812E
Port Vila - Efate
Our week in Port Vila has been fun. We remained moored to the wharf and on Sunday took a trip around the island with Warren and Debbie and guided by our waiter Stuart, who we met at the Waterfront Bar and Grill on Friday night. Because Monday was a holiday for Children's Day Stuart brought his wife and two beautiful daughters aged 3 and 1 with him for our tour. We jumped by rope into the lovely water of the Blue Lagoon, saw traditional dancing at Taka village, listened to a talk by the eccentric proprietor of the World War 2 museum and had an enjoyable day whilst learning a lot from Stuart's wide knowledge of the island. After such a hectic day we spent the Monday public holiday lazing around the pools at Iririki Resort and testing their cuisine, together with, it seemed, most of the families in Port Vila.
In general, we've stocked up our fruit and vegetables from the best market we've ever seen, chatted to people, taken it easy, eaten out once or twice and had an altogether good time.
Geoff walking the plank - it got harder after a dinner out...
How did they know we'd had no bread for 2 weeks?
Geoff swinging rope into the Blue Lagoon
With Warren & Debbie at the Blue Hole
The big chief of Taka village
The little chiefs of Taka village
Jacinta
Children's day
Welcome to Taka Village
Headhunters
Living it up at Iririki Resort
Sat Jul 23 23:22 2016 NZST
GPS: 17 44.601S 168 18.812E
Run: 232.8nm (421.4km)
Port Vila - Efate.
We arrived in Port Vila, Vanuatu at 6.30am yesterday after a 37 hour trip from Ouvea. The winds stayed between 15 and 20 knots for the length of the trip and in spite of regular mild squalls, we managed with slightly reefed sails to have an easy trip.
We arrived here to find that Warren and Debbie on 'Phase 2' had arrived the day before. Then Scott and Jasmin on 'Equanimity' arrived about 2 hours after us. Once we finalised our entry formalities with Customs and Quarantine, we moved over to a berth and 'Med moored' up to the wharf in front of the Waterfront Bar and Grill, an institution in Vila which serves good meals, drink and live entertainment every night. With Warren & Debbie and Scott & Jasmin we made the most of Vanuatu's laid back version of light-hearted civilisation mixed with excellent food and service.
We had a top night and it was fascinating listening to the conversation from three groups of people cruising in very different circumstances. Warren and Debbie sail a very nice, new Seawind catamaran and enjoy comfortable sailing with many modern conveniences. We sail a 46 ft 30 year old, cruising mono-hull with traditional lines but the convenience of in mast furling and a well protected covered centre cockpit. Scott and Jasmin sail a gorgeous 32 ft New Zealand designed and built yacht, with minimal mod cons and limited space, but good speed. They are also much younger than we are. So, who was having the most fun? Well, of course we all were. By the end of the night it was obvious that it's not the boat itself that makes the trip, but more importantly your attitude, the wonderful places you visit and the people you sail with and meet along the way.
This place has a vibrant and energetic vibe and I'm writing this to a background of ABBA mixed with numerous laughs and cheers; and looking forward to whatever tomorrow brings.
Commuting Vanuatu style
Equanimity - An Oh-oh moment...
Scott & Jasmin - you don't need a motor to have fun
Tue Jul 19 14:10 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 24.598S 166 08.087E
Run: 29.7nm (53.8km)
Ile Beautemps-Beaupre - Loyalty Islands
After our failure to check out of New Caledonia because of the Bastille Day holidays, we found ourselves with 3 extra days and no plan to do anything with them. Geoff suggested we visit the Daguera group of small islands on the northern reef of Ouvea which we'd heard have a good anchorage and excellent snorkelling. Oh dear, the wind and sea came up and as we approached the anchorage the waves were crashing onto the rocks at the entrance to the small bay so we couldn't be certain of the exact entrance. It was a case of, if we get this wrong, it would be very wrong and we both agreed to pass this potentially lovely anchorage and beat on for another couple of hours to Ile Beautemps-Beaupre which has an entrance on the Western side and should be more protected. The devastating thing was that above and behind the rocky cliffs we could see the perfectly still mast of a yacht already anchored in this elusive anchorage.
The entrance to the small lagoon at Beautemps-Beaupre is guarded by a motley row of large coral bommies which, as we sailed around the island appeared to be one large coral headland. By now the sun was shining weakly from behind the clouds but the wind was still quite strong and I was half way up the mast wearing a walkie talkie headset and my polaroid sunglasses ready to find our way through the bommies and into the anchorage. I imagined that once we rounded this headland, we'd find the bommies and all would become clear, but when Geoff said: 'I think we have to go through the headland - they are the bommies', my first response was a shocked 'You've got to be kidding!!', but no, he was not and he was right.
I couldn't see a potential track all the way through and had to ask whether he was sure he could back the boat up following our track on the plotter before I agreed to keep going. And so we wove our way amongst the breakers using my directions from up the mast (the plotter showed the whole lagoon as being on land), and we entered a beautiful, picture perfect lagoon with a white sandy beach, just large enough for 2 boats to anchor comfortably. There was just us though, so we had it all to ourselves. We spent the afternoon snorkelling and then next morning when the winds dropped it was back up the mast to take some photos of the entrance as it's supposed to look. Thanks to Bastille Day and the unexpected additional holiday, we've had an amazing bonus and have found our new favourite anchorage - for now.
We returned to Fayouwe on Ouvea on and Geoff flew to Noumea, staying overnigh Monday to clear Customs and Immigration.
Departed for Vanuatu on Wednesday and because of the predicted Easterly winds expect to arrive in Port Vila instead of Tanna on Friday morning.
The bommie entry without wind and waves
Lovely beach
Anchored in the clear waters of Beautemps-Beaupre
View from the top of the mast
Beautemps-Beaupre
Off to the interior
We soon lost one of those oars
Beautemps-Beaupre
Joined by a second boat - sunset
Tue Jul 19 14:08 2016 NZST
No position sent.
After our failure to check out of New Caledonia because of the Bastille Day holidays, we found ourselves with 3 extra days and no plan to do anything with them. Geoff suggested we visit the Daguera group of small islands on the northern reef of Ouvea which we’d heard have a good anchorage and excellent snorkelling. Oh dear, the wind and sea came up and as we approached the anchorage the waves were crashing onto the rocks at the entrance to the small bay so we couldn’t be certain of the exact entrance. It was a case of, if we get this wrong, it would be very wrong and we both agreed to pass this potentially lovely anchorage and beat on for another couple of hours to Ile Beautemps-Beaupre which has an entrance on the Western side and should be more protected. The devastating thing was that above and behind the rocky cliffs we could see the perfectly still mast of a yacht already anchored in this elusive anchorage.
The entrance to the small lagoon at Beautemps-Beaupre is guarded by a motley row of large coral bommies which, as we sailed around the island appeared to be one large coral headland. By now the sun was shining weakly from behind the clouds but the wind was still quite strong and I was half way up the mast wearing a walkie talkie headset and my polaroid sunglasses ready to find our way through the bommies and into the anchorage. I imagined that once we rounded this headland, we’d find the bommies and all would become clear, but when Geoff said: ‘I think we have to go through the headland – they are the bommies’, my first response was a shocked ‘You’ve got to be kidding!!’, but no, he was not and he was right.
I couldn’t see a potential track all the way through and had to ask whether he was sure he could back the boat up following our track on the plotter before I agreed to keep going. And so we wove our way amongst the breakers using my directions from up the mast (the plotter showed the whole lagoon as being on land), and we entered a beautiful, picture perfect lagoon with a white sandy beach, just large enough for 2 boats to anchor comfortably. There was just us though, so we had it all to ourselves. We spent the afternoon snorkelling and then next morning when the winds dropped it was back up the mast to take some photos of the entrance as it’s supposed to look. Thanks to Bastille Day and the unexpected additional holiday, we’ve had an amazing bonus and have found our new favourite anchorage – for now…
We expect to leave for Vanuatu on Wednesday and because of the predicted Easterly winds we expect to arrive in Port Vila instead of Tanna on Friday morning.
Tue Jul 19 14:07 2016 NZST
No position sent.
After our failure to check out of New Caledonia because of the Bastille Day holidays, we found ourselves with 3 extra days and no plan to do anything with them. Geoff suggested we visit the Daguera group of small islands on the northern reef of Ouvea which we’d heard have a good anchorage and excellent snorkelling. Oh dear, the wind and sea came up and as we approached the anchorage the waves were crashing onto the rocks at the entrance to the small bay so we couldn’t be certain of the exact entrance. It was a case of, if we get this wrong, it would be very wrong and we both agreed to pass this potentially lovely anchorage and beat on for another couple of hours to Ile Beautemps-Beaupre which has an entrance on the Western side and should be more protected. The devastating thing was that above and behind the rocky cliffs we could see the perfectly still mast of a yacht already anchored in this elusive anchorage.
The entrance to the small lagoon at Beautemps-Beaupre is guarded by a motley row of large coral bommies which, as we sailed around the island appeared to be one large coral headland. By now the sun was shining weakly from behind the clouds but the wind was still quite strong and I was half way up the mast wearing a walkie talkie headset and my polaroid sunglasses ready to find our way through the bommies and into the anchorage. I imagined that once we rounded this headland, we’d find the bommies and all would become clear, but when Geoff said: ‘I think we have to go through the headland – they are the bommies’, my first response was a shocked ‘You’ve got to be kidding!!’, but no, he was not and he was right.
I couldn’t see a potential track all the way through and had to ask whether he was sure he could back the boat up following our track on the plotter before I agreed to keep going. And so we wove our way amongst the breakers using my directions from up the mast (the plotter showed the whole lagoon as being on land), and we entered a beautiful, picture perfect lagoon with a white sandy beach, just large enough for 2 boats to anchor comfortably. There was just us though, so we had it all to ourselves. We spent the afternoon snorkelling and then next morning when the winds dropped it was back up the mast to take some photos of the entrance as it’s supposed to look. Thanks to Bastille Day and the unexpected additional holiday, we’ve had an amazing bonus and have found our new favourite anchorage – for now…
We expect to leave for Vanuatu on Wednesday and because of the predicted Easterly winds we expect to arrive in Port Vila instead of Tanna on Friday morning.
Thu Jul 14 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 37.811S 166 32.680E
Run: 12.6nm (22.8km)
St Joseph - Ouvea - Loyalty Islands.
The village of St Joseph is very traditional and most of the dwellings are made from thatch in either a round (Polynesian) or rectangular (Melanesian) configuration. In the centre of the village , with a beautiful view across the lagoon, is the Renaissance cathedral style painted stone church of St Joseph with its impressive spire.
We've been made very welcome here and decided that I would stay with the boat while Geoff flew back to Noumea to check us out with Customs and Immigration before we leave for Vanuatu. Geoff left for the airport this morning by the usual method here - hitch hiking. It took 2 hours to travel the 19 km so it's just as well he left at 10am for his 2pm flight. As he was congratulating himself of getting there and on time, he received a text message from a friend in Noumea advising that Customs and Immigration will both be closed today and tomorrow and wouldn't open again until Monday. After the initial shock he discovered that they're having an additional day's holiday for Bastille Day which is today. (You wont find this advice anywhere in Noonsite or cruising guides).
What to do? Return flights booked. Hotel booked. Grovel, beg and plead... He's managed to have his non refundable flights transferred and is still waiting on the outcome with the hotel. So we're both on the boat again and plan to up anchor in the morning and visit a secluded group of islands in the reef 2 hours north west from here for the weekend. Then we'll try it all again on Monday........ah, the pleasures of cruising.
Gorgeous outlook
St Joseph - traditional thatched housing
Even traditional houses have TV
Free range dinner
Tue Jul 12 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 37.743S 166 32.689E
Run: 0.1nm (0.2km)
Weather: Winds SE 8kn
Fayouwe - Ouvea - Loyalty Islands.
Yesterday we moved further up the long beach at Ouvea and anchored off Fayouwe, a very spread out village which wore us out trying to find a system in its layout. Whilst we didn't find most of the things we were looking for, we did stumble across the 'yacht club'. Beside this very orange, modern building, a group of budding sailors were putting their Optimists, wind surfers and small cats through their paces. They were having a ball and we've never seen a group of children so comfortable with their boats - check out the photo of the 2 young boys standing on their gunwales as they sail their boat to shore.
Sailing Ouvea style
Bright orange 'yacht club'
Sun Jul 10 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 42.188S 166 26.683E
Run: 44nm (79.6km)
Avg: 12.4knts
24hr: 297.5nm
Avg: 12.4knts
24hr: 297.5nm
Baie de Mouly - Ouvea - Loyalty Islands.
As we sailed around the corner we were greeted by miles of perfect white sandy beach. We anchored in front of Hotel Paradis, which it really was and couldn't wait to put our feet on the sand. First, though we had to catch up on the news of the world so had a cup of coffee at the hotel cafe and used the free wifi. Once up to date we passed a young girl playing happily with a dog on the beach. Geoff, the inveterate dog lover, took one glance at the happy pooch and he left the girl stranded and came with us. How embarrassing.
Mouly beach
Geoff steals a dog
Catching up on the news - Hotel Paradis
Hotel Paradis
Sat Jul 9 22:27 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 55.476s 167 05.015e
Weather: 0 knots
Drueulu - Lifou - Loyalty Islands.
Our friend Robert Stead from the yacht Aurora visited the village of Drueulu on Lifou in 2012 and was fortunate enough to be invited to a local wedding. Nearly 4 years later we arrived in the village of Drueulu with the aim of delivering Rob's photos of that wedding to his host, Jean. We searched the village using Rob's Google Earth instructions and eventually, after struggling with a discussion in French mixed with local dialect we found his house with its traditional round house in the back. Sadly though it was all closed up with no one at home. We returned again that night with no better luck. With fears of failing in this important mission but with water tanks and pantry running low we up-anchored and moved to the larger village of Chepenehe on the opposite side of the bay to restock, intending to return on the weekend when we hoped Jean would be home. On Friday night, four years to the day after Rob's visit we re-anchored at Drueulu, launched the dinghy and again walked up to Jean's house. After speaking to his sister in law Lizzie, his son Jacob and his nephew, we were introduced to Jean himself and received a very warm welcome. We were immediately asked to join them for their dinner of soup, chicken and rice cooked to perfection by the wonderful Lizzie. As it turned out, there was a wedding this weekend as well and although we weren't able to attend this one, it was exciting to see a village in wedding mode. The wedding was attended by 1000 guests in a village of only 500 residents yet it doesn't seem to have stretched the capacity of the village at all as every house also has its traditional round house which sleeps around 20 people on colourful mats. We've enjoyed this pretty village, crystal clear water and lovely sandy beach, but mostly we've felt welcome amongst the friendly villagers with their ready waves an d happy smiles.
Jean and Geoff in Jean's roundhouse
Stylopora anchored in front of Jean's roundhouse
Sat Jul 9 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 20 47.147S 167 8.822E
Run: 71.9nm (130.1km)
Chepenehe - Lifou - Loyalty Islands.
Anchored here for a few days to stock up on groceries before returning to Drueleu. The northern beach in Chepenehe is stunning - a long sandy beach overlooked by a massive church with spires on the top of a huge headland and beneath, miles of gorgeous coral. On the beach itself, long bamboo structures set up for selling trinkets when the cruise ships arrive - sigh!
The dinghy landing area at Chepenehe itself is a tiny natural harbour protected on all sides and entered by a narrow channel. The only negative is that a bit of a surge can run through there but all in all, it's just amazing.
Baie de Santal - overlooking Chepenehe
Carvings guard the bay
Amazing natural dinghy anchorage
Curious tree and rock formations
Mon Jul 4 21:03 2016 NZST
GPS: 21 35.296s 167 51.441e
Run: 78.7nm (142.4km)
Weather: 12 knots SE winds
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Baie de Pede - Mare - Loyalty Islands.
We've finally arrived at the first of the Loyalty Islands after a long and bumpy overnight sail from the Isle of Pines with 2 other boats for company. The weather is overcast and drizzly and we ended up heaving-to to wait for a short break in the cloud cover so we could make our way safely amongst the coral and into our small, quiet haven. The Loyalties are operated via traditional methods and yachties are expected to go ashore, meet the chief and offer a small gift in exchange for being allowed to anchor in their bay and visit their sights. We've been prepared for this for some time and were looking forward to parting with our gift of some traditional fabric before visiting a natural aquarium and grotto. Sadly we walked for an hour unable to find any traditional owners to pass our gift on to. Our boat is loaded down with gifts for villagers both here and in Vanuatu so we hope it will be easier to pass them on in the other islands.
Arriving in Pede, Mare
Baie de Pede, Mare
Sat Jul 2 21:12 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 39.587S 167 26.446E
Run: 47.7nm (86.3km)
Baie de Kuto - Isles des Pins.
Upon returning to Noumea from Australia we attended to an annoying leak in the circulation pump which threatened to keep us harbour bound it pays to carry spares (thank you to Don and Robyn & Tony and Val for the refurbished spare parts). A half day and we were all good to go. Prior to departing we had sundowners with Debbie and Warren Kerswill on Phase 2 before they headed north and we went south. Weve spent the last week or so sailing from Noumea to the Isle of Pines via Amedee Lighthouse and some beautiful and rugged bays on the mainland.
Since leaving Noumea the weather's been a little less than perfect with winds over our usual 10 knots and some rain, although not enough to bring out a raincoat. Geoff and I have both caught some New Cal winter bug so we've taken it easy bunkered down in Baie de Kuto at Isle des Pins. We still can't believe that we're here and having a ball.
Here we are at a lovely anchorage at Baie de Kuto with only three other boats when we arrived. The weather blew up from the west and it was a bit bumpy for a night before the winds returned to the South and South East but there's good holding and good access to shore facilities such as they are. This is a great bay for the trade winds with a long white sandy beach. Hotel Kou-Bugny only seems to open from Thursdays in this low season but provides cool drinks, and all other resort facilities including wifi at a cost of $10 per week. A better but less convenient option is a beer or coffee at Hotel Tera Oure in the adjacent Baie de Kanumera which offers free wifi, great meals and great service. We hired bikes from Hotel Oure and a car from Hotel Kou-Bugny. The staff at both are very friendly but it does pay to brush up on your French. With the bikes we travelled to Vao, 6k away, and tried to get a local SIM card - forget it! It's just too hard! Better to use the hotel wifi! With the car we toured the whole island in under a day and visited all the other bays that seemed to be good anchorages.
The highlight was that we were able to visit two of the three cavernous grottos on this land without the accompaniment of a bus load of tourists! Another highlight was Baie d'Oro with its piscine tidal pool and the hotel Meridian (best on the island). This is low season and we have not sighted a cruise ship while we've been here but we understand they get four per week in the warmer high season - lucky us! Another definite highlight was the tour of Baie d'Upi on a traditional Pirogue - outrigger canoe which are still made in the traditional way (plus a Yamaha outboard), followed by a hike to Pic Nga (the highest point on the island). Great photo opportunities!!
Kuto
Go fetch - with coconuts
Got it!
We thought it would be a short bike ride
Grotto
Grotto
Tree roots in the cave
Baie de Kuto
If I were you, I'd tack here mate...
Sailing
There are no galley duties for me here...
Pirogues
Pirogues
At anchor
Mon Jun 27 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 09.294S 166 55.849E
Run: 13.1nm (23.7km)
Yate.
Anchored near the bridge at Yate, a very protected anchorage on the south western side of New Caledonia.
Testing the new coconut knife
Sun Jun 26 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 21.122S 166 57.349E
Run: 8.5nm (15.4km)
Port du Boise.
A lovely secluded Bay well sheltered from most winds with plenty of fresh water streams at the northwest end. Having so much water Geoff decided to wash this morning (not just himself but all the linen as well) - a large amount to do by hand. No doubt we'll get used to it - or not. Once the boat was strung all over with washing, the clouds came across with drizzly rain so it was all moved into the cockpit. With the boat looking like a laundry we let out another 15m of chain and went out for lunch at Kanua Tera eco lodge, a ten minutes wet dinghy ride in full wet weather gear, on the east side of the bay. Bonus - they have free wifi. Also good service, lovely meals and nice premises - a lovely way to spend a wet afternoon!
When it came time to leave the next morning the washing was still wet so it had to be moved again to the only safe place whilst sailing - the cabin. We're discussing the merits of disposing with clothes.
Port du Boise
Creek entrance
Resort at Port du Boise
Perfect way to spend a rainy afternoon
Pine trees at sunset
Sun Jun 26 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 20.573S 166 57.584E
Run: 0.7nm (1.3km)
Port de Boise North. A very protected anchorage in most conditions, but when the wind changed to SW, we moved to the western side of the bay. This bay has you covered in all conditions.
Sat Jun 25 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 19.260S 166 49.663E
Run: 2.2nm (4km)
Baie de Prony.
Prony Township is the remnants of the 19th century penal settlement/old logging station and well worth the visit. Whilst returning to our boat in our dinghy we encountered two humpback whales who lazed within 20m of our dinghy for about 15 minutes. Amazing!
Anchored at Prony
View from the hill
Whales - from our dinghy Prony
Whales - from our dinghy
Whales - from our dinghy
Moving logs - the old logging station
Fri Jun 24 22:16 2016 NZST
Speed: 0.0
knts GPS: 22 18.161s 166 51.333e
Run: 7.6nm (13.8km)
Weather: 0 knots wind
Baie du Carenage East
We visited the not so hot natural springs and waterfalls at Le Carenage in the upper reaches of the bay after working our way through the shallows in an attempt to find a route deep enough for the dinghy to reach the landing stage.
Baie du Carenage East
Entry to the springs at Baie du Carenage East
The clear but not so hot springs
One of our resident Remoras - sucker fish
Wed Jun 22 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 20.652S 166 44.769E
Run: 20.3nm (36.7km)
Baie d'Ui
We tucked ourselves away at Baie d'Ui because the winds made the coral islands untenable for anchoring and we've had a surprisingly good time. The water was flat, calm and very well protected. We filled our water containers from a fresh water creek just beside the beach. The bays along the mainland south of Nourmea are long and deep, surrounded by high hills. Fortunately there were no bullets blowing down from the hills, at least while we were there. It's quite beautiful country with small waterfalls making their way down most of the valleys. The soil is orange and we managed to get it everywhere even though we had a bucket on the back of the boat for foot washing and washed everything before getting into the dinghy. The anchor brought up masses of it as well and we were still washing it off at the Loyalties.
Small beside the mountains
Red hills at Baie d'Ui
Clean drinking water at Baie d'Ui
Kayaking the river at Baie d'Ui
Lunch in a small creek off the river
What made this?
Mangrove patterns
Superb view
Tue Jun 21 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 28.643S 166 27.737E
Run: 15.3nm (27.7km)
Amedee Island
Amedee lighthouse is quite a structure and really appealed to the engineer in Geoff. At Amedee we enjoyed sundowners with the crew from Shellac who turned out to be long time sailing friends of Chris and Mike Vincent.
Amedee Lighthouse
Amedee Lighthouse
The lead light at Amedee
Amedee at sunrise
Lovely beach at Amedee
Another snake track
Mon Jun 20 13:39 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 15.34940S 166 27.03146E
Run: 1.6nm (2.9km)
Back in Noumea
We had a wonderful two weeks in Australia playing with our grandchildren, going to birthday parties and catching up with Inge and Herbert from Austria.
We're now back in Noumea ready to continue our holiday and have just checked into Port Moselle Marina for a day or so for Geoff to replace the fresh water pump in the engine which had begun to leak some coolant into the bilge. Fortunately we had a spare and in spite of a few grumbles down below during installation, it seems to be working fine. Fingers Crossed. We?ll leave the leaking one here for refurbishment and collect it when we check out in about a month's time.
Berths in the marina here are hard to get so I was particularly happy to get this one because it's so close to the cafe that we can get wifi on the boat and to date we've had to take our computer up to the cafe and buy food or drink while we type. Geoff has been working on the engine - a no go area for me, while I sit in the cockpit in comfort looking at the cafe and considering going for a coffee anyway...
Last night after dinner we were discussing the things we've learned so far and this is what we came up with.
1. Checking in. On arrival in Noumea by boat you must check in at Port Moselle Marina. Don't worry if they don't have a berth for you though, or if you just prefer to anchor out as it's quite feasible to anchor in Baie D'Orphelinat around the corner from Port Moselle Marina and dinghy around to the marina for check in purposes. We also visited Customs, Immigration and Quarantine ourselves. None of them wanted to come to the boat so we went to them by dinghy. We were advised to leave someone with the dinghy - thank you Steve. They are all within a reasonable walking distance.
2. Port Moselle Marina is always busy so it's hard to get a berth for more than a day or two. Their prices are around $40Aud per day. Pontoons are all timber and have no pile at the end of each berth. The berths are all much shorter than the boats and we wouldn't want to sit out a cyclone here.
3. Tender Pass. We anchored out, because we could still get a Tender Pass for Port Moselle Marina for $6Aus per day which gave us access to the showers, Wifi and somewhere to tie up our dinghy. We've been locking our dinghy because everyone else does but we haven't actually heard of any incidents of theft. There's nowhere in Baie D'Orphelinat that seems safe for us to go ashore so the dinghy pass was great.
4. Dinghy mooring. It's a long walk from the Port Moselle Marina to either Baie des Citrons or Anse Vata in the south though and we eventually found that we could tie our dinghy to the inside pontoon at the Pacific Fuel Wharf adjacent to CNC for $3Aus per day.
5. CNC. We tried to visit CNC using our RQYS membership but were told in no uncertain terms by the Capitaine that the CNC has no relationship with any foreign yacht club, so we returned to our rightful place at the fuel wharf.
6. Twenty9 Surf and Skate Shop. Our new friend Stephen was a great help when it came to leaving Stylopora here during our trip back to Australia. We would definitely recommend his Skate and Surf shop in the Hilton complex at Anse Vata or website www.twenty9.nc Good light wetsuits for snorkelling as well.
7. Marina Pontoons. When you do come into Port Moselle Marina, the pontoons are usually MUCH shorter than your boat and have only one normal cleat at the bow. Both middle and stern cleats are actually an upside down U shaped piece of tubing bolted to the pontoon at each end - sort of like an upside down toilet roll holder. You need to thread your line through this and take it back to the boat; or at least push it through doubled to tie on quickly and then change it. It totally destroyed my instructions to 'Tie it off quickly'...
8. Shore Power. There is no such thing as an adapter which can be used on our Australian cables for shore power. After asking all around for an 'adapteur' (is there any such word?), Geoff found out that you just go to the marina office and ask for a plug. You then have to cut the end off your existing cable and rewire it from the wiring diagram on the pontoon. The easier way would be to come with a short lead rather than have to cut down your extension cable.
9. LP Gas. In spite of information otherwise, it seems that it is possible to obtain LP Gas in Noumea. There is a yacht agent named Herve who is in the second shop/building on the left at Port Moselle Marina. Herve apparently feels sorry for all of the Australian boats who can't refill their gas and will fill them for you personally and very slowly. Our empty bottle has been with him for two days now but hopefully we'll have it back on Tuesday. If not we may have to amend No. 9.
10. Boat Shopping. For chandlery and any other boat bits and pieces, Geoff is recommending Marine Corail at Nouville Plaissance. It seems they have just about everything you need, although you do need to go from one shop to the next and ask for what you need - preferably in French, although he has managed to find everything that he's needed in English. Please don't ask him about the prices.
11. Markets. The prices here are expensive, even the markets because a lot of the fruit and veges are imported resulting in very little for less than $7Aus per kilo. Some local produce is between $3 and $4 per kilo but there's not much in that range. Yams though, are VERY expensive and we can't afford to eat them - it's cheaper to buy imported potatoes. The markets are also dangerous - I was stabbed by a pumpkin on Friday morning! The store holder put my pumpkin into a small plastic bag with handles before I had a chance to put it straight into my environmentally friendly string bag; and unfortunately one handle broke straight away. Before I realised what was happening a piece of stalk off the top of the pumpkin went straight down behind my fingernail. Very ouch, but after a couple of days of home grown medical treatment it's coming good and I can even type with it.
12. Wifi. We've discovered how often we used to just pick up a phone to Google something and we're struggling to find answers without it. Wifi at Port Moselle Marina is fine although very slow especially if you think of sending photos. Apparently the wifi at the markets is faster but we haven't tried it.
Gosh, we've learned a lot already - just imagine how much we'll know by the time we get home...
Berth at Port Moselle Marina
Mon May 30 2:00 2016 NZST
Speed: 0
knts GPS: 22 16.605S 166 26.400E
Run: 1.4nm (2.5km)
Port Moselle Marina - Noumea
The trip back to Noumea was as good as the one north, although with fewer stops. The highlight for us was Isle Ndukue.
We've left our poor boat alone at Port Moselle Marina in Noumea and are back on the Sunshine Coast now for first birthday parties for our grandchildren, Amber and Alexander, as well as to welcome Austrian visitors. A holiday from our holiday no less, but we'll be back to explore the lagoon south of Noumea on 14th June.
Noumea from Fort Tereka
Wed May 25 21:31 2016 NZST
Speed: 0.0
knts GPS: 22 17.796s 166 26.148e
Run: 24.5nm (44.3km)
Weather: 0 knots wind
Baie des Citrons.
Our last stop before returning to Noumea was Baie des Citrons, another pretty sandy beach, but this one has cafes, restaurants and bars all along so we finally found our bar on the waterfront that made cocktails and then treated ourselves to dinner out.
Stylopora in the background.
Back to civilization
Wed May 25 9:23 2016 NZST
Speed: 0.0
knts GPS: 22 06.038s 166 07.057e
Weather: 10 knots W winds
Anse Kuendu - Ile Nou. A short walk to Fort Tereka.
We were looking forward to our stay in Anse Kuendu on Nou Island, close to Noumea. The anchorage was as beautiful as we expected but very small with reef and shallow water all around. Coming into anchor was totally nerve wracking and we almost left rather than risk staying. In the end we anchored slightly out from the other boat already there, a steel boat called Ui with a German family of four who were very encouraging as we tried to find enough space and depth to drop our anchor.
A resort sits at the end of the bay looking beautiful with bungalows perched on stilts over the water but when we looked closer they were very dilapidated and beginning to collapse. There went our hopes of watching the sunset on their deck with a Margarita each, so Plan B was put into action - Geoff makes a mean Margarita...
We attempted another walk and this time eventually found not one but numerous tracks, but somehow found our way to the top of the hill and Fort Tereka with its cannon that have guarded the entrance to Noumea since the 1800's.
Anse Kuendu anchorage - surrounded by coral
Anse Kuendu anchorage
Anse Kuendu Resort
Fort Tereka
Fort Tereka
Fort Tereka
Fort Tereka
Sun May 22 22:36 2016 NZST
Speed: 0.0
knts GPS: 22 06.047s 166 07.055e
Run: 12.5nm (22.6km)
Weather: 12knots SE winds
Ile Ndukue
With its beautiful circular bay, its rocky hill that we climbed and its unexpectedly beautiful snorkeling beside the rocky northern beach is one of ur favourites. We followed the advice of the guide book which promised walks through the island with lovely views at the top, and while the view was indeed lovely, the walk was a case of trailblazing. The intrepid Steve led the way through the spider webs and made enough noise to warn off any snakes that may have been snoozing in the long grass. At the top we found a navigation mark lying on the ground so we were very pleased to have been following our Garmin plotter rather than navigating by sight. Although all of the islands we visited were stunning, we usually had to share them, but we stayed at this one for a couple of days and saw no sign of civilization at all. No lights. No planes. No sound at all except for small waves breaking on the rocky wall as the tide came in; and the thousands of birds that lived there.
Ile Ndukue anchorage
Colourful coal at Ile Ndukue
Coloured coral
Great reef to the north of Ile Ndukue
Relaxing and reading 'The 100 year old man who climbed out the Window'
Fallen navigation marker
Sun May 22 0:02 2016 NZST
Speed: 0.0
knts GPS: 21 57.841s 165 59.466e
Run: 7.5nm (13.6km)
Weather: 10 knots SE winds
Ile Lepredour
We anchored beside the deer sanctuary where our guide book said we should be able to see deer. Unfortunately they were all hiding, assuming they are still there, so we didn't see any. A beautiful full moon though.
Beautiful full moon
Sat May 21 8:32 2016 NZST
Speed: 0.0
knts GPS: 22 00.153s 165 66.034e
Run: 8.7nm (15.7km)
Weather: 5 knots NE winds
Ile Tenia - Passes des St Vincent
Wow! We've been incredibly lucky to have had such perfect weather. The winds have been light and the sun's been shining except for some stunning clouds providing the most amazing sunsets; and we've been anchored beside beautiful sandy islands surrounded by spectacular coral reefs. We left Noumea a week ago to visit the islands to the north, many of which are surrounded by coral, and whilst the coral makes for more challenging anchoring techniques, we've sat down to dinner in the cockpit each night surrounded by the most incredible views and very few people. Remember the advertisement that went something like: 'Tahiti please James!'? That explains a little of how we are feeling. Every evening we discuss the day's anchorage and activities, examine the guide book and charts; and then decide whether to stay for another day or carry on to another piece of paradise. Yesterday we chatted with a young French woman who was kite surfing across the lagoon at Ilot Tenia, a small island on the inside of the outer reef at Passe de St Vincente. She told us she was born in France but was living in Noumea because it was Paradise. Well said. We'd been snorkelling in the lagoon when we met her and have been impressed by the variety of fish and coral there and at most of the places we've stopped.
Have there been any challenges? Well, internet in any meaningful form is pretty much non-existent, I'm learning to wash our clothes in buckets on the back of the boat, and Geoff and Steve are learning the hunter and gathering skills of harvesting oysters. We won't mention the lack of suicidal fish jumping onto our fishing lines... We're at the end of our fruit and veges now and the tinned food is starting to look good so we're making our way back to Noumea via some more islands in paradise.
Ilot Tenia in the outer reef
Lovely cloud formation and sunset
Elusive squid
Sunset footprints
First footprints
Sea snake track
Ooh. Hello!
Beautiful snorkeling
Scary big eel hiding in some coral
Scared little fish hiding in some coral
Found the snakes...
Geoff & Steve aid cute french girl
Fri May 20 21:24 2016 NZST
Speed: 0.0
knts GPS: 22 06.969s 166 09.582e
Run: 10.9nm (19.7km)
Weather: 5 knots variable winds
Ilot Moro.
A beautiful rocky island with a small sandy beach and good anchorage from the SW and SE. We launched the kayak, and Steve paddled out to investigate. He arrived back must faster than he left and the only thing he noticed was the number of sea snakes - Steve's not fond of snakes. Geoff and I thought we should check them out as well, but sadly, Steve must have scared them all away and we couldn't find one. The snorkeling was quite good here.
Rocky outcrops at Ilot Moro
Coral and rock
Crystal clear water - great reflections
Steve explores - finds sea snakes
We search for sea snakes - no luck
Wed May 18 23:53 2016 NZST
Speed: 0.0
knts GPS: 22 15.79s 166 13.188e
Run: 4.9nm (8.9km)
Weather: 14 knots ESE winds
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Ilot Mbe Kouen.
We had trouble believing it when we arrived at this absolutely stunning tiny island - beautiful white sandy beaches, lovely clear water, great snorkeling, an excellent anchorage - picture perfect!
Beautiful Ilot Mbe Kouen
Snorkeling
Are we relaxed yet?
Beautiful clear water
Coconut from the beach
Ilot Mbe Kouen
The end of a very short circumnavigation
Mon May 16 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 17.733S 166 17.323E
Run: 7.8nm (14.1km)
Ilot Signal. A pretty island whose main feature is a man made navigation aid built in the 1860's from locally sourced rocks and cement; and standing about 25m tall.
Steve discovered collecting coconuts here as they had floated up onto the beach and were lying there calling to him. Once back on the boat we discovered that he was no better at opening them than we were. Fortunately though, he was more persistent and he had us drinking coconut water and eating the lovely flesh in no time.
Learning about Ilot Signal
A very visible navigation aid
Stylopora anchored at Ilot Signal
Attacked by seagulls...
Thanks Steve
Mon May 16 2:00 2016 NZST
No position sent.
Anchored at historic Ilot Signal.
Old navigation mark
Anchored off Ilot Signal
Is anyone home?
Our first snorkel of the trip
Mon May 16 2:00 2016 NZST
No position sent.
Ilot Maitre - resort island
A walk before sundowners
Sundowners at the resort
Nice anchorage
Sun May 15 2:00 2016 NZST
GPS: 22 19.933S 166 24.207E
Run: 4.5nm (8.1km)
Ilot Maitre.
A lovely small island with a very nice resort, which of course we thought we should investigate. Their pool deck, where yachties are welcome is a top spot to have a drink and watch the sun set. To earn our drink though, we did circumnavigate the island on foot and snorkel over some quite nice coral.
Our first snorkel
Ilot Maitre resort
Sunset at Ilot Maitre resort
Thu May 12 2:00 2016 NZST
Speed: 0
knts GPS: 22 16.605S 166 26.405E
Run: 188.4nm (341km)
Avg: 13.4knts
24hr: 321.4nm
Avg: 13.4knts
24hr: 321.4nm
Anchored at Noumea
We cast off our lines at the Manly marina and were on our way to New Caledonia. Our previous trips have been restricted by time and we ended up fighting strong winds and large seas to the point where we joked that we never sailed with the wind - always against. This time we were waiting for the right weather window and after only a week's delay set off in light south easterly winds. First though, we organised for Australian Border Patrol to come to the boat, go through our paperwork, stamp our passports and clear us out of Australia. After their visit we were allowed 24 hours to depart the country.
Geoff, our friend Steve Lock and I were finally on our way and the trip to Noumea was fabulous. After the first two days of perfect light weather sailing we awoke to glassy seas and no wind, motoring for a solid four and a half days until we arrived in Noumea. Before the trip Steve and I had made enough frozen meals for ten days in case of bad weather, but with the light wind, cooking was easy and we managed bacon and eggs on the barbeque one morning, roast chicken one night, sundowners with champagne one evening and sundowners with a lovely red wine (thanks Min) on another. On two days the water was so glassy we stopped the motor, took down the token sail and jumped into beautiful clear water two miles deep. Fearing the nightmare of the boat sailing off without us, we kept one person on the boat but there was no sign of it sailing off anyway.
We sailed past the Amadee lighthouse and into Noumea at 5pm on Thursday, leaving us time to check into Noumea on Friday before an unexpected three day long weekend. Checking into Noumea involved individual dinghy rides to complete the paperwork for Customs, Quarantine, Immigration and Port Control after which we celebrated with lunch at the Bout du Monde cafe at Port Moselle marina before going back to our anchorage for a night of uninterrupted sleep without the usual 2 hourly night watch system.
Land ahoy!
Amadee lighthouse in the distance
Amadee lighthouse
Our French & quarantine flags
Jean-Marie Thibaou Cultural Centre
Jean-Marie Thibaou Cultural Centre
Cathedral St Joseph
Central Noumea
Dinner with Lozzie from Athos
Wed May 11 11:56 2016 NZST
Speed: 5.7
knts GPS: 23 46.645s 163 58.049e
Run: 308.2nm (557.8km)
Avg: 6.4knts
24hr: 153nm
Avg: 6.4knts
24hr: 153nm
Weather: 3 knots ENEwinds
650 miles down and 160 miles to go to Noumea - still motor sailing and waiting for new wind
Calm seas with bacon and eggs on the barbeque
Overboard for a quick dip
Eerie - swimming in 3 miles deep water
How calm can it get in the ocean?
Geoff searching for the wind
Cruising dinner
Mon May 9 11:36 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.0
knts GPS: 24 53.455s 159 13.680e
Run: 124.8nm (225.9km)
Avg: 5.4knts
24hr: 129.2nm
Avg: 5.4knts
24hr: 129.2nm
Weather: 7 knots SE winds
Nice sailing through the day in sunny skies. 119 miles achieved less than previous as wind dropped out at night and we motored all night
Enjoying calm water
Easy conditions
Sun May 8 12:25 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.0
knts GPS: 25 28.222s 157 20.262e
Run: 136.7nm (247.4km)
Avg: 6.1knts
24hr: 147.3nm
Avg: 6.1knts
24hr: 147.3nm
Weather: 11 knots SE winds
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Great day with another 133 miles down, tummies settling and lovely weather. Have sighted whales
Stunning sunset
Sat May 7 14:09 2016 NZST
Speed: 6.4
knts GPS: 26 16.701s 155 19.901e
Run: 145.3nm (263km)
Avg: 5.7knts
24hr: 137.4nm
Avg: 5.7knts
24hr: 137.4nm
Weather: 12 knots SE winds, swell 1.5 m from SE, mostly sunny 35% cloud cover
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Good first day with 124 miles down, 12 knot SE winds,. Sailing and crew happy
Pre-prepared dinners - much appreciated
Fri May 6 12:46 2016 NZST
GPS: 27 19.630S 153 17.394E
Run: 10.6nm (19.2km)
Weather: Zero wind.
Yeh! We have been cleared out of Australia by the helpful and patient men from Australian Border Force; cast off our lines and are heading off into the sunrise. Well, that sounds good but it is actually a bit later than sunrise because the tides have given us a very civilised 9am start. Are we excited? You bet! The boat is loaded up and the waterline is way down, but we are moving; and the weather forecasters are predicting very light winds, some of which will actually take us the way we want to go. In most of the trips we have done, we been short of time and ended up beating into strong winds so we will be very impressed if we do get good conditions and; although of course, we will need some wind. We expect to arrive in Noumea in about a week.
Whilst we are away we can be contacted by: Email svstylopora@gmail.com Text via sat phone - +88 424 211981 and Blog www.yit.co.nz/yacht/svstylopora
Noumea - here we come!
Good-bye Manly
Mon May 2 20:53 2016 NZST
Speed: 0knts *(optional)*
knts GPS: 27 27.21S 153 11.54E
Run: 10.4nm (18.8km)
Weather: 0knts, calm seas, no clouds, 1022 baro
Berthed in Manly Marina.
We've ticked a lot more off our list and still hope to be ready to leave in the first week of May if the weather's good. Geoff's been inspecting the mast and its fittings, installing AIS, installing our Iridium Go satellite WIFI hub, building additional shelves in cupboards and repairing safety lines while I've been buying up enough food to stock a nuclear shelter, trying to stock the food without putting all the weight on one side of the boat, walking 5 minutes to put on a load of washing, making a new sun/rain awning and banking time with our grandchildren in an attempt to make up for the time I'll miss when we're away.
Are we enjoying it? So far - absolutely, although we're both looking forward to putting our feet up a bit more and heading out of the marina.
Stocking up with Ali and Amelie
All packed and ready
Rigging AOK
Where's Wally?
Fri Apr 15 19:59 2016 NZST
GPS: 27 27.9660s 153 1.4153e
Stylopora is a Savage designed Oceanic 46 based in Manly, Qld, Australia. Geoff and Di live aboard full time and hope to depart in early May for New Caledonia and then Vanuatu.
SV Stylopora - Change of Blog Setup
From now on we intend to include all of our blog entries on the left hand side of the main page where they require a step less to read and will hopefully be easier to find.
Internet access is definitely a challenge and the satellite phone connection expensive, so we'll add photos as and when we can.
Our resident Remora (sucker fish)
SV Stylopora - Exploring the north lagoon
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
SV Stylopora - SV Stylopora - 2403 Jun 2016
Anchored flat glassy conditions at Baie during Carenage. Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
SV Stylopora - SV Stylopora - 2202 Jun 2016
Anchored in 10m of beautiful clear water beside the Amedee Lighthouse. Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
SV Stylopora - Back to Noumea
The trip back to Noumea was as good as the one north, although with fewer stops. The highlight for us was Ile Ndukue with its beautiful circular bay, its rocky hill that we climbed and its unexpectedly beautiful snorkeling beside the rocky northern beach. We followed the advice of the guide book which promised walks through the island with lovely views at the top, and while the view was indeed lovely, the walk was a case of trailblazing. The intrepid Steve led the way through the spider webs Read more...
and made enough noise to warn off any snakes that may have been snoozing in the long grass. At the top we found a navigation mark lying on the ground so we were very pleased to have been following our Garmin plotter rather than navigating by sight. Although all of the islands we visited were stunning, we usually had to share them, but we stayed at this one for a couple of days and saw no sign of civilization at all. No lights. No planes. No sound at all except for small waves breaking on the rocky wall as the tide came in; and the thousands of birds that lived there.
We were looking forward to our stay in Anse Kuendu on Nou Island, close to Noumea. The anchorage was as beautiful as we expected but very small with reef and shallow water all around. Coming into anchor was totally nerve wracking and we almost left rather than risk staying. In the end we anchored slightly out from the other boat already there, a steel boat called Ui with a German family of four who were very encouraging as we tried to find enough space and depth to drop our anchor. A resort sits at the end of the bay looking beautiful with bungalows perched on stilts over the water but when we looked closer they were very dilapidated and beginning to collapse. There went our hopes of watching the sunset on their deck with a Margarita each, so Plan B was put into action - Geoff makes a mean Margarita... We attempted another walk and this time eventually found not one but numerous tracks, but somehow found our way to the top of the hill and Fort Tereka with its cannon that have guarded the entrance to Noumea since the 1800's.
Our last stop before returning to Nourmea was Baie des Citrons, another pretty sandy beach, but this one has cafes, restaurants and bars all along so we finally found our bar on the waterfront that made cocktails and then treated ourselves to dinner out.
We've left our poor boat alone at Port Moselle Marina in Noumea and are back on the Sunshine Coast now for first birthday parties for our grandchildren, Amber and Alexander, as well as to welcome Austrian visitors. A holiday from our holiday no less, but we'll be back to explore the lagoon south of Noumea on 14th June.
Ile Ndukue - quiet, protected anchorage
Ile Lepradour - a deer sanctuary but we couldn't find the deer
Ile Ndukue - the hunter gatherers collecting oysters
Ile Ndukue - more good snorkelling
Ile Ndukue - good snorkelling
Ile Ndukue - colourful coral
Ile Ndukue - coral reflections
Ile Ndukue - relaxing after all that snorkelling
Anse Kuendu - protected but very small anchorage
Anse Kuendu - room for about two boats
Anse Kuendu - resort
Fort Tereka
Fort Tereka
Fort Tereka
Noumea - from Fort Tereka
SV Stylopora - SV Stylopora - 2502 May 2016
Back to civilization. Lots of night life on the esplanade beside our anchorage. Restaurants, bars, even a casino.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
SV Stylopora - SV Stylopora - 2501 May 2016
Very pretty anchorage well sheltered from SE winds but open to the west. Great lookout but hotel is well past its prime and closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Heading back to Noumea today to Bae de Citrons Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
SV Stylopora - Exploring the north lagoon
Wow! We've been incredibly lucky to have had such perfect weather. The winds have been light and the sun has been shining except for some stunning clouds providing the most amazing sunsets; and we've been anchored beside beautiful sandy islands surrounded by spectacular coral reefs. We left Noumea a week ago to visit the islands to the north, many of which are surrounded by coral, and whilst the coral makes for more challenging anchoring techniques, we've sat down to dinner in the cockpit each Read more...
night surrounded by the most incredible views and very few people. Tonight we are the only boat anchored at Ile Ndukue and there are no lights or other evidence of civilisation in sight. The only thing we can hear is the distant sound of surf breaking on the outer reef about two miles away. Remember the advertisement that went something like: 'Tahiti please James!? That explains a little of how we are feeling. Every evening we discuss the day's anchorage and activities, examine the guide book and charts; and then decide whether to stay for another day or carry on to another piece of paradise. Yesterday we chatted with a young French woman who was kite surfing across the lagoon at Ilot Tenia, a small island on the inside of the outer reef at Passe de St Vincente. She told us she was born in France but was living in Noumea because it was Paradise. Well said. We'd been snorkelling in the lagoon when we met her and have been impressed by the variety of fish and coral there and at most of the places we've stopped.
Have there been any challenges? Well, internet in any meaningful form is pretty much non-existent, I'm learning to wash our clothes in buckets on the back of the boat, and Geoff and Steve are learning the hunter and gathering skills of harvesting oysters. We won't mention the lack of suicidal fish jumping onto our fishing lines... We're at the end of our fruit and veges now and the tinned food is starting to look good so we're making our way back to Noumea via some more islands in paradise.
Snorkelling at Ile Mbe Kouen
Sundowners at Ilot Maitre
Ilot Signal - an early navigational mark
Ilot Signal - more beautiful weather
Anchored at Ile Mbe Kouen
Ilot Mbe Kouen - are we feeling relaxed yet?
Ilot Mbe Kouen - beautiful clear water. No need to snorkel.
Ilot Mbe Kouen - coconuts from the beach
Ilot Moro - more clear water
Ilot Moro - rocky outcrops
Ilot Moro - Steve exploring by kayak
Ilot Tenia - part of the outer reef and a very interesting anchorage surrounded by coral
Ilot Tenia - elusive squid
Ilot Tenia - sea snake track
Ilot Tenia - Well, he seems friendly...
Ilot Tenia - amazing cloud formations
Ilot Tenia - snorkelling
Ilot Tenia - big scary eel
Ilot Tenia - more fish
SV Stylopora - SV Stylopora - 2202 May 2016
Very pretty anchorage well sheltered from SE winds. Looking forward to snorkeling the nearby reefs Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
SV Stylopora - SV Stylopora - 2202 May 2016
heading slowly back towards Noumea. Looking for other interesting anchorages along the way.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
SV Stylopora - SV Stylopora - 2002 May 2016
Another perfect anchorage. Oysters, crabs and sea snakes. A very different island. Thousands of fish to snorkel amongst . Nothing table size Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
SV Stylopora - Arrival in Noumea
We cast off our lines at the Manly marina and were on our way to New Caledonia. Our previous trips have been restricted by time and we ended up fighting strong winds and large seas to the point where we joked that we never sailed with the wind - always against. This time we were waiting for the right weather window and after only a week’s delay set off in light south easterly winds. First though, we organised for Australian Border Patrol to come to the boat, go through our paperwork, stamp Read more...
our passports and clear us out of Australia. After their visit we were allowed 24 hours to depart the country.
Geoff, our friend Steve Lock and I were finally on our way and the trip to Noumea was fabulous. After the first two days of perfect light weather sailing we awoke to glassy seas and no wind, motoring for a solid four and a half days until we arrived in Noumea. Before the trip Steve and I had made enough frozen meals for ten days in case of bad weather, but with the light wind, cooking was easy and we managed bacon and eggs on the barbeque one morning, roast chicken one night, sundowners with champagne one evening and sundowners with a lovely red wine (thanks Min) on another. On two days the water was so glassy we stopped the motor, took down the token sail and jumped into beautiful clear water two miles deep. Fearing the nightmare of the boat sailing off without us, we kept one person on the boat but there was no sign of it sailing off anyway.
We sailed past the Amadee lighthouse and into Noumea at 5pm on Thursday, leaving us time to check into Noumea on Friday before an unexpected three day long weekend. Checking into Noumea involved individual dinghy rides to complete the paperwork for Customs, Quarantine, Immigration and Port Control after which we celebrated with lunch at the Bout du Monde café at Port Moselle marina before going back to our anchorage for a night of uninterrupted sleep without the usual 2 hourly night watch system.
Jumping into the deep blue...
Hoping the boat doesn't sail off without us.
Where is that wind?
Beautiful conditions
Watching the sunset
A lovely evening
Calm weather and lovely meals
Bacon and egg breakie
Land ahoy!
Amadee Lighthouse on the way into Noumea
Quarantine and French flag flying in Noumea
SV Stylopora - SV Stylopora - 1101 May 2016
Third blog- In praise of diesel 650 miles from Brisbane surrounded by a totally flat sea, which of course is much better than a stormy sea. Seems like we asked for a calm passage and certainly got one. Thankfully we carry 500 litres of diesel. As we are approaching Noumea and seas are calm we are feasting and trying to consume our food stocks so we dont hand too much to quarantine on arrival. Its tough but some one has to do it. We stopped briefly yesterday in a particularly flat sea and Read more...
all got off (one at a time) and swam in the 1 mile deep sea. Amazing experience. Totally clear water, warm and eerily quiet. Other than flying fish and the odd seabird we have not sighted a living thing in the last 3 days. Steve likened it to a watery desert. Weather is quite stable so we expect calm conditions again today with the prospect of a bit more breeze tomorrow.
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SV Stylopora - SV Stylopora - 902 May 2016
Nearly half way 365 miles from Brisbane and nearly half way to Noumea. We will cross the half way point today and celebrate accordingly. Great sailing conditions so far but lighter winds are expected today and tomorrow so motor sailing at present. Had an unexpected visit from Dolly the booby (it's a seabird) who perched on the bow of our boat from dusk to dawn and enjoyed a free ride part way to Noumea. Crossed paths and made contact with Tony and Vicki on L'attitude this morning. They departed Read more...
Southport in their catamaran same day as us. All enjoying the voyage. Only incident so far is our radar is not cooperating. We suspect a flying fish who landed heavily on the dodger may be the culprit but he refused to make a statement. Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.
SV Stylopora - Leaving Manly.
Yeh! We have been cleared out of Australia by the helpful and patient men from Australian Border Force; cast off our lines and are heading off into the sunrise. Well, that sounds good but it is actually a bit later than sunrise because the tides have given us a very civilised 9am start. Are we excited? You bet! The boat is loaded up and the waterline is way down, but we are moving; and the weather forecasters are predicting very light winds, some of which will actually take us the way we want Read more...
to go. In most of the trips we have done, we been short of time and ended up beating into strong winds so we will be very impressed if we do get good conditions and; although of course, we will need some wind. We expect to arrive in Noumea in about a week.
Whilst we are away we can be contacted by: Email svstylopora@gmail.com Text via sat phone - +88 424 211981 and Blog www.yit.co.nz/yacht/svstylopora
Whilst we are away we can be contacted by: Email svstylopora@gmail.com Text via sat phone - +88 424 211981 and Blog www.yit.co.nz/yacht/svstylopora
Geoff, Di & Steve - Noumea, here we come!
Leaving Manly
Good bye Manly
SV Stylopora - Still in the marina - crossing jobs of our list.
We've ticked a lot more off our list and still hope to be ready to leave in the first week of May if the weather's good. Geoff's been inspecting the mast and its fittings, installing AIS, installing our Iridium Go satellite WIFI hub, building additional shelves in cupboards and repairing safety lines while I've been buying up enough food to stock a nuclear shelter, trying to stock the food without putting all the weight on one side of the boat, walking 5 minutes to put on a load of washing, making Read more...
a new sun/rain awning and banking time with our grandchildren in an attempt to make up for the time I'll miss when we're away.
Are we enjoying it? So far - absolutely, although we're both looking forward to putting our feet up a bit more and heading out of the marina.
All good on the mast
Where's Wa - Geoff?
My teeny-tiny sewing machine
Where will all this fit?
The new awning
SV Stylopora - RQYS Marina, Manly, Qld
Geoff and Di moved out of their house and onto their boat on 12th December 2015.
The house has now been sold and we're busy working on 'our home on the water' to make it comfortable for the gypsy life, for the next few years. Eventually we plan to live in our apartment at the Mirage at Alexandra Headland, Sunshine Coast, but in the meantime hope to leave Queensland at the end of April 2016 en route for New Caledonia, Vanuatu and perhaps other Pacific islands. The return date is sometime Read more...
Learning to cook great food in our small galley.
Practising for our new lifestyle.
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