Thought I should position Chameleon back in her berth at B42 Gulf Harbour as we have been running the net from Home for 2 months now!

Wow and cool. I am using the new iPad App and I don't even have to input the position as it finds me automatically.

Will likely stay in South Cove Kawau as it is not often you get such tranquil conditions here, hopefully the grey skies may keep the holidaying school kids on land today. We are the only anchored boat so a great marker for all those racing around in power boats towing skiers and other kid carrying contraptions!

back home and looking forward to meeting some new faces at kawau later in the week

Buenos Aries and at the dock after the slow trip up the river Plate overnight. It is shallow but again my chart does not give much detail. The boat Info screen said 20m but it looked less and the tide gave 1.8 m range although water seemed to be flowing out.

We walked into town wishing we had brought sweaters. It did not warm up. Lots of familiar monuments. We stopped by the hotel we were going to be staying in and found they had no record of us so a long walk back to ship to get booking details. Yes we are there. durr. Hard to get David back out today.

They really do tango in the street! The show we attended at night was unbeleivable. We also attended a wine tasting at Palermo and had the most exciting bus ride to get there. The driver needed to be in a F1 car . His judgment of where the bus finished and the next vehicle started was fractions of a mm! David decided we would taxi back! We ate magnificent steak every night which for Patricia was amazing. And the malbec wine was glorious. Wine from Grapes grown over 1500m seem to have no side affects. And we really tested that out.

just as we approached Montevideo Uruguay dock a squall came through with 60 kts so the port was closed and we got to hang about. Eventually we docked in 20kts and driving rain but as the electrical storm and heavy rain continued we decided to go to the gym. It was wonderfully empty for the first time. At this time, 10am it looks as if we will not be going a shore for quite a while. We have only a day here.

The weather did not stop Patricia from shopping.

There is over 1000nm from the Falklands to Montevideo Uruguay so we are sailing for two days at around 18-20 kts in pea soup. A good time to catch up on reading and gym work. There are various seminars to go to including cooking and management of Windows programs. Today was photo handling. The digital workshop has about 30 computers and the tutor is excellent. I should have been to more. Despite the increasing number of coughs and sniffles around us we are still healthy. Hygiene on this Holland America Line ship is the best we have ever experienced. Tomorrow we have a day ashore in Montevideo  then a day ashore in Buenos Aries before leaving the ship for a hotel and hopefully catching up on Internet work. And less eating! Fat chance as David us looking forward to the beef. Will update on YIT first. The slow and expensive ship internet connection makes us appreciate what the Falkland Islanders have to deal with.

There were a couple of sessions from the officers. The one given by the kiwi - on the right in the photo - was about navigation and weather.

Every night there was a new towel animal left on the turned down bed. Our favourite was the Yoda!

 The Fawklands Islands.An amazingly good day for our trip to the northern part of these very barren islands. Not a tree In sight and very rugged barren landscape. The very colourful houses in Port Stanley look attractive and with such good weather there was no problem getting the tender to shore. We had a Landrover with an ex marine driver guide who first arrived here during the war so we had a fantastic insight to the 82 days in 1982. The best land  trip we have had and we now have a very different appreciation of life here. Sheep are 6 acres to one sheep! The penguin colony was in the north of the island at 51 18.908S and 58 49.434W.

Most folk here have a 4 wheel drive of some sort and all are pressed into action when a ship arrives. There were various trip options. It is not free that the weather is s good and one time tourists got left onshore overnight as the ship had to leave the anchorage. They were accommodated in army barracks and homes. 

We approached Cape Horn at dawn and slowly approached in great conditions. A long 4m swell and about 25 kts wind. A little difficult to stand on the bow and take photos but we managed and it was indeed the highlight and raison d'être of the trip. We got very close and when we passed into the Pacific Ocean the ship sounded the horn, and again when we returned to the Atlantic.

currently circling the harbour in Ushuaia waiting for the wind to drop so we can pull along side the dock. We traveled through Glacier Alley this morning and although the low cloud stopped us seeing the peaks we got a good look at all the glaciers. It was not raining then. Passed at least three sail boats in the Beagle Channel going the opposite direction and not enjoying the squalls and head winds. Amazingly they did not have protection in the cockpit but they were from Europe so I guess used to conditions like this. We will wearing as much as possible when we go ashore but we are getting used to single digit temperatures. Later, the ship finally docked but it will be an interesting exercise getting it off later.

Well wrapped up we wandered around town and finally found an info desk. When we asked when the shops re opened after lunch we were reminded it was Sunday! We took some great photos of sail boats rigged for Tierra Del Fuego which we will post later. It was hard to stand up right on the dock as the wind was so strong. Amazingly they did not have cockpit protection but had really good lines on reels for tying to shore.

We finally found a hotel to change some money and found that my long stored Argentinian notes were no longer valid! There are about 15 Australs to the US dollar so easier to compute than In Chile where there were 670 pesos to the dollar.

 

Amazingly dry all day in Punta Arenas. Fairly calm for the start of the trip to Isla Magdalena to see a trillion little penguins. Then a walk around the town that made us happy we lived elsewhere. Not much to do if you lived here but eat and drink and maybe fish when it was not blowing an icy 40 kts as it was yesterday. Our cabin window was finally cleaned of the chemical scum that prevented any viewing so we will be able to see out tomorrow in glacier valley. We had offered to do it if they provided a rope for David to lower me from the deck above! Must have embarrassed them into action. 

Isla Magdalena is 52 55.170S and 70 34.434W

Stayed inside all day and went to a concert with a bandoneon. A South American accordion. Also the very good violinist and pianist. Also guitar and drums when needed. Mostly tango and related music. Spent a goodly time in the gym to counteract the calorie intake. Generally a relaxing day and gathering strength for the 2 hr ride in a ferry tomorrow with a forecast 40 kts. I hope the Penguins are worth it. We will be wearing as much as we can to keep warm. Sadly not too many pictures are worth while in these weather conditions. We are cruising Canal Sarmiento and very happy we are in a big ship.

 

noon position above. The weather has changed today more often than it does in Wellington. We entered Canal Messier at noon then went south then east to a huge glacier Tempanos. Very spectacular and the rain stopped to enable great photos including a large calving. Noisy and visually spectacular. Then back via a ship wreck then Into Canal Adalberto with a higher ceiling. Wind goes from nothing to 30 kts in minutes and we are thankful not to be sailing in Chameleon. Hats off to Ithaca crew. It is chilly in Chile and we have need of the odd Whisky for medicinal purposes! Internet is expensive so reports with photos will be delayed.

The poor light was evidently good for seeing the blue colour of the glacier. The ship came in quite close among the burgies . There are so many glaciers that the one chosen varies depending on weather. It changes quickly and the captain needs to chose what will give the best view. He would get a report from the ranger station at this one.

A beautiful early morning cruise up the fjord which is not charted well on the Navionics chart. Two sail boats were going out with the tide. Tide is more important than wind in this area as they can be up to 8 kts. We arrived at Chacabuco to find another cruise ship, Norwegian Sun, which may have Gary and Marion on board, going the reverse direction. Chacabuco is a very small town with what looks like a salmon processing plant. Will likely stay on board this morning and get some exercise in the gym. The weather is the best it has been and we really should be outside but the food intake needs attention.

Ps later. You know you are somewhere strange when the treadmill tv has a cricket game on - between Oman and Ireland!

position] 41 21.19s 72 56.2w

[weather] cloudy and drizzle most the of day but a little sun by 4pm . Little wind inside here

[status] anchored at P Montt and we went road touring with a very informative guide , Giraldo, who gave us a passionate review of the political and social history of Chile. We drove to P Varas which has a strong German influence then Lago Llanquihue and the falls. Onto Lago Todos Los Santos and Parque National Vicente Perez Rosales. We ate Murta berries at every opportunity. They are tiny and delicious . Ignea Molinari is the scientific name. We tried to find Ithaca and Westerly Serenade back in the rather seedy commercial port area of P Montt but there are three areas of sailboats behind Isla Tenglo and no boat had a courtesy flag so we gave up and went and ate an empanada carne instead. We will get a good view of the Chacao passage on the way out to sea at 6 pm. It is calm. No sign of the Andes due the low cloud and drizzle.

On route to P.Montt. Hard to use a treadmill with the swell. Have to use it to counteract the very good food. Positions will be noon positions. Ship library is amazing with lots of choice for all interests.

 

Positioned in Valparaiso, city of stray barking dogs, and awaiting the long, ship boarding process. I will attempt to add a picture but using an iPad for updates is not easy, Mike. We note Mirabilis is still AWOL. Later. Unlike other experiences the ship boarding was quick and painless.

We thought we had better reposition ourselves before boarding our temporary replacement for Chameleon on Sunday. Santiago is a fairly tired looking city but a good place to relax and regain energy after a long flight. We are staying in the Lastarria area which abounds with cafes and restaurants offering wonderful Pisco sours which David insists we must drink as we can quote get wine anywhere! We finally managed to buy ground coffee yesterday. Not many supermarkets have it as everyone drinks instant coffee. The heat takes a bit of getting used to and just when we are in fact used to it we will be heading south and needing warm clothes. We hope to see the Ithaca crew in P.Montt. 

Back at the dock and missing all this beautiful weather but there was lots to do. The new Gulf Harbour Radio antenna is now ready to hoist. And bags are almost packed to go to South America next week. See you all at the picnic when we get back.

Still Anchored in Whangaparapara Harbour Great Barrier Island. A wet day to catch up on indoor things. The walks have been great and my favourite is surprising - up Whanga hill. Yes there is a steady climb to 308m but the track is soft and through beautiful native growth including a lot of kauri. Much more interesting than the other tracks which have mostly manuka and fern. This track gives the only view of the Bay from the top, which is about 50min from the turn off. (not 1hr 10m as stated). For those with bad knees or hearts the short walk to the kauri falls is absolutely flat on a real tourist path including bridges over the meandering river. You start all walks by taking the road to the head of the bay and then walk through the gate on the left which is well sign posted. The walk to the hot springs is about 3.5hr return via the road. Witheys track is also nearly 3 hours as it is no longer a round trip. The pack track has been closed at the Tramline track end. The Old Mill track needs to be done at lowish tide to get through the sea inlet near the start.

Anchored in Whangaparapara Great Barrier Island enjoying a beutiful sunset. Will stay here until the remnants of TC Victor have passed.

The day walks from this anchorage are superb as you can tie the dinghy to the very good commercial dock and it is a short walk to the start of the tracks. The bush is quite varied and the views fantastic on a clear day. One of the shortest is up Mt Whangaparapara but the native vegetation is excellent and you are rewarded with the view to Little Barrier from a not very pleasant summit.

The pictures below include those from the Fitzroy anchorage when I walked up Mt Hobson. This is a long day but well worth the effort.

Back at dock to sit out the rain and get things done at the house. Sorry to have missed Maunie as judge was ready.

Kawau Is after a motor all the way. Does not seem to be any rain in the front . There has been quite an emptying out if boats as many have headed back for work tomorrow. We will return Friday with north winds.

Believe it or not we enjoyed being at the dock. Lots of entertainment with boats pouring in to escape the weather. We were able to go see Star Wars in 3D, have our neighbours in for the New Years dinner, and listen to the now casting with no fear of draggIng! It was amazing that for two full days Tiri had higher winds than Chanel island. Consistently peak winds of 47-51 with average 38-43. Home to a scene of devastation with tomato plants and leaves scattered around the deck. At least the forecast for Monday looks good and we are now squared away inside the boat with a list of what we need before sailing away.