on0passage, from Nuku Hiva (Marquesas Islands) to Radio Bay, Hawaii (Big island). Been out 5 days, all is well. The boat is sailing easily and well, ITCZ (ahead) doesn't look too bad. Expecting a 16 day passage. First world/'Murica, here we come!
Back in Taiohae, Nuku Hiva. Here for some repairs, reprovision, and then we hope on to Hawaii. Hope to only be here for a week or two, but it's always a nice place to be.
in the lagoon at Raroia. We've been working our way eastward, in preparation for sailing north back up to Nuku Hiva, in the Marquesas. About 420 n.m. to weather. also watching for a weather window, to do this. So far, winds unfavorable. The village at Raroia is charming, very small. There are a couple small magasin grocery stores, pearl farming seems to be the main employment. But very friendly, going to church is important. The lagoon and reef is beautiful, clear water mostly. This is the atoll where Kon Tiki made their crash landing/landfall. Anchoring is difficult, lots of coral, and deep. We're floating our chain with pearl farm floats, to make it snag on outcrops a bit less.
in the lagoon at Makemo, after a motor-sail crossing from Tahanea. anchored off a motu, called Punaruku. Good shelter, guys working ashore on coconuts I think. A beautiful spot, certainly. An old cemetery ashore, back in the bush. But recently swept, low walls of stacked coconut husks partly around.
at anchor in Raroia, off a motu on the east side. Very friendly folks in the town. We're about a mile from the spot where the Kon Tiki landed, after crossing from South America. weather is unsettled, rain and squalls this morning. We're waiting for a weather window to sail NNE to Nuku Hiva.
at anchor in Tahanea, just east of the middle pass. we've spent a few days here. it has no village, population seems to be one fisherman, and a caretaker. very nice, serene. mild weather, clearest water yet. high points? drift-snorkel diving the passes, with Paul and Kate from Iolea. one morning, saw a dozen large Mantas, just as close as you'd like to be. lots of beautiful coral. hunting lobsters on the reef, under an almost-full moon. tomorrow, planning an early departure, going to Mameko. approx. 52 n.m.
on a mooring, at the south end of the Fakarava lagoon. had a good run down inside, stayed overnight at Pakokota. very nice! at the south end, dove the pass three times. amazing dives. and suddenly fi-phone is getting usable (slow) wifi. they are bringing in a 5g fiberoptic undersea cable, we hear.
in the lagoon at Fakarava. on a mooring (free!) in 70' of water. very secure and serene. 8 boats in this mooring field, so on anchors. very clear water, ramoras under the boat, so . . . nice village ashore, fresh local vegetables available. pretty nice!
sorry, forgot to update the coordinates . . .
among the Tuamotus. don't hit any. should be in Fakarava soon, if we're guestimating the slack current at the pass right. All good . . . so far.
finally underway(!) From Hanemoanoa, Tahuata to Fakarava, in the Tuamotus. Approx 520 n.m., mostly SW. Finally an acceptable weather forecast(s). It's been light air, most of the way, so moving slowly but easily. Last night the exception, we crossed a trough between two systems (or somethin'). So squally all night, some rain, winds to 30's. But nothing bad happened, and today back to mild. I expect scattered squalls most of the rest of the way. First time in a long time we've dealt with that, I remember it used to be every night on our sail from Puerta Vallarta, and then west. Usually started just at dinner time. Looking forward to seeing friends in the Tuamotus! And diving!! With (big) SHARKS!!!3 17
Now back in HanaVave, on Fatu Hiva. R.L. Stevenson said it was the most beautiful bay in the South Pacific, I wouldn't say he was wrong. Waiting here now for a weather window to proceed to the Tuamotus, looking promising for Wednesday or Thursday, but it's forecast to be light winds. We sat in on the church service here this morning, very local, very nice. All conducted in Marquesan, which probably did not diminish how much I could understand very much. Saw a pod of dolphins here in the anchorage, whales are sometimes also seen here. It's a much darker anchorage than Hanemoanoa. We're here with Break Away (Yves and Martin) and Lola. Last time we were in here, there were a dozen boats or more. Now just us 3. A little rain right now . .
Back down in Hiva Oa. A tough sail down from Nuku Hiva, weather "deteriorated" to quite a bit worse than forecast (closer to the nose, stronger wind. lotsa rain, bigger seas). We were expecting to be as close to the wind as possible, and then motor into it when we came in to the lee of Hiva Oa. That still worked, just tougher. But only 20 hours. Anchored outside at Fahauku bay, where we can even get a little (weak) wifi! Into town, provisioning, etc. Topping up on diesel and outboard gas, a last fix of internet access? We're hoping to move on soon, on towards the Tuamotus, and diving!
We've moved! Around the island (Nuku Hiva) to Anaho bay, at the east end of the north coast. No town here, no cellular, no wifi. There is a church camp for Marquesan youth, and a vegetable farm. Very steep, very tall mountains around. Land access is by a dirt road. But the water is clear, it's a good, and safe, place to snorkel and dive. Well sheltered, very serene. A few goats visible, far up on the mountain sides. Two other boats here, one has friends we know already, on it. Brian 'n Mizzy
We're still in the anchorage at Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva. Mostly, I'm just correcting a typo in the latitude I had entered. Hope all of your are having a good Sunday morning. A fun evening last, a community dinner ashore with drums and dancing. Brian 'n Mizzy
We're in the anchorage at Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva. Had an easy overnight passage from Tahuata. Chilling here, working on the boat. Some of the usual troublemakers (watermaker), some first-timers (solar controllers). But we have real wifi available, we just completed the paperwork for our 12 month visa here, so life is good! This is a great anchorage, yuge, with good holding. Generally well protected, a bit rolly. Incredible rock formations, a wild landscape. A spot on the pilgrimage route for sailors, for many generations now. It's good to see the couple dozen boats in the anchorage, from all over the world. Mostly smaller and older, few of the newer, million dollar/50+ foot ones. Different from some places we've been. And we're here with our memories of previous stops here, and the people we were with then. Very nice! Brian 'n Mizzy
We're in the anchorage, Hana Vave, at the island of Fatu Hiva. The famous Bay of Virgins/Bay of Phalluses. All very good. A spectacular bay, last night watched a drum and dance session at the local community center/park. Very much by locals, for locals. Amazing, they sure can shake it. We were unable to get here last time we were in French Polynesia, to hard a beat to weather. This time we made it. A deep anchorage, about 10 boats here, 4 are ones we know from farther back. Working today on the solar controller, anchor windlass, and outboard motor. And perhaps a hike to the waterfall. Brian 'n Mizzy
on-passage, Isla de la Plata, Ecuador to Hiva Oa, Marquesas. A bit past half way, all's well. Finally feels like real trade wind sailing; bright sun, some clouds, fresh steady breeze from ESE. Offshore swell, 2 meter, "rolling down the trades". Running right now deep, under just the working genoa. Somewhere out here Bob and Lesley on Moon Rebel, and Toby and Juliet on Sunflower. We may see 'em? Mizzy just made bread!
We're in the anchorage, Baie Tahauku, near Atuona, on Hiva Oa, in the Marquesas archipelago. Our passage was about 23.5 days, All in all very good. Hiva Oa seems amazing, awesome scenery and fine people. A few changes since we were last here, there's now a better dingy dock, and a yacht service yard with haul out. Our needs are pretty simple. Anchored inside the harbor now. We're properly checked in, easy and no charge. We plan/hope to go on to Fatu Hiva on Sunday, after the Bastile Day celebration here. Tamare dance competition! All is good! Brian 'n Mizzy
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