we actually arrived quite a while ago (11 Dec) after a 16 day passage from Taihae, Nuku Hiva. A challenging, and tiring passage, but overall good. We're here in Radio Bay, Hilo, Big Island Hawaii. We're working on the boat of course, shopping, and spending time with Mizzy's family. All good! We expect to be here in Hawaii for a few months. Peace and Joy to all, at this holiday season.
on0passage, from Nuku Hiva (Marquesas Islands) to Radio Bay, Hawaii (Big island). Been out 5 days, all is well. The boat is sailing easily and well, ITCZ (ahead) doesn't look too bad. Expecting a 16 day passage. First world/'Murica, here we come!
Back in Taiohae, Nuku Hiva. Here for some repairs, reprovision, and then we hope on to Hawaii. Hope to only be here for a week or two, but it's always a nice place to be.
in the lagoon at Raroia. We've been working our way eastward, in preparation for sailing north back up to Nuku Hiva, in the Marquesas. About 420 n.m. to weather. also watching for a weather window, to do this. So far, winds unfavorable. The village at Raroia is charming, very small. There are a couple small magasin grocery stores, pearl farming seems to be the main employment. But very friendly, going to church is important. The lagoon and reef is beautiful, clear water mostly. This is the atoll where Kon Tiki made their crash landing/landfall. Anchoring is difficult, lots of coral, and deep. We're floating our chain with pearl farm floats, to make it snag on outcrops a bit less.
at anchor in Raroia, off a motu on the east side. Very friendly folks in the town. We're about a mile from the spot where the Kon Tiki landed, after crossing from South America. weather is unsettled, rain and squalls this morning. We're waiting for a weather window to sail NNE to Nuku Hiva.
in the lagoon at Makemo, after a motor-sail crossing from Tahanea. anchored off a motu, called Punaruku. Good shelter, guys working ashore on coconuts I think. A beautiful spot, certainly. An old cemetery ashore, back in the bush. But recently swept, low walls of stacked coconut husks partly around.
at anchor in Tahanea, just east of the middle pass. we've spent a few days here. it has no village, population seems to be one fisherman, and a caretaker. very nice, serene. mild weather, clearest water yet. high points? drift-snorkel diving the passes, with Paul and Kate from Iolea. one morning, saw a dozen large Mantas, just as close as you'd like to be. lots of beautiful coral. hunting lobsters on the reef, under an almost-full moon. tomorrow, planning an early departure, going to Mameko. approx. 52 n.m.
on a mooring, at the south end of the Fakarava lagoon. had a good run down inside, stayed overnight at Pakokota. very nice! at the south end, dove the pass three times. amazing dives. and suddenly fi-phone is getting usable (slow) wifi. they are bringing in a 5g fiberoptic undersea cable, we hear.
in the lagoon at Fakarava. on a mooring (free!) in 70' of water. very secure and serene. 8 boats in this mooring field, so on anchors. very clear water, ramoras under the boat, so . . . nice village ashore, fresh local vegetables available. pretty nice!
sorry, forgot to update the coordinates . . .
among the Tuamotus. don't hit any. should be in Fakarava soon, if we're guestimating the slack current at the pass right. All good . . . so far.
finally underway(!) From Hanemoanoa, Tahuata to Fakarava, in the Tuamotus. Approx 520 n.m., mostly SW. Finally an acceptable weather forecast(s). It's been light air, most of the way, so moving slowly but easily. Last night the exception, we crossed a trough between two systems (or somethin'). So squally all night, some rain, winds to 30's. But nothing bad happened, and today back to mild. I expect scattered squalls most of the rest of the way. First time in a long time we've dealt with that, I remember it used to be every night on our sail from Puerta Vallarta, and then west. Usually started just at dinner time. Looking forward to seeing friends in the Tuamotus! And diving!! With (big) SHARKS!!!3 17
Now back in HanaVave, on Fatu Hiva. R.L. Stevenson said it was the most beautiful bay in the South Pacific, I wouldn't say he was wrong. Waiting here now for a weather window to proceed to the Tuamotus, looking promising for Wednesday or Thursday, but it's forecast to be light winds. We sat in on the church service here this morning, very local, very nice. All conducted in Marquesan, which probably did not diminish how much I could understand very much. Saw a pod of dolphins here in the anchorage, whales are sometimes also seen here. It's a much darker anchorage than Hanemoanoa. We're here with Break Away (Yves and Martin) and Lola. Last time we were in here, there were a dozen boats or more. Now just us 3. A little rain right now . .
Back down in Hiva Oa. A tough sail down from Nuku Hiva, weather "deteriorated" to quite a bit worse than forecast (closer to the nose, stronger wind. lotsa rain, bigger seas). We were expecting to be as close to the wind as possible, and then motor into it when we came in to the lee of Hiva Oa. That still worked, just tougher. But only 20 hours. Anchored outside at Fahauku bay, where we can even get a little (weak) wifi! Into town, provisioning, etc. Topping up on diesel and outboard gas, a last fix of internet access? We're hoping to move on soon, on towards the Tuamotus, and diving!
We've moved! Around the island (Nuku Hiva) to Anaho bay, at the east end of the north coast. No town here, no cellular, no wifi. There is a church camp for Marquesan youth, and a vegetable farm. Very steep, very tall mountains around. Land access is by a dirt road. But the water is clear, it's a good, and safe, place to snorkel and dive. Well sheltered, very serene. A few goats visible, far up on the mountain sides. Two other boats here, one has friends we know already, on it. Brian 'n Mizzy
We're still in the anchorage at Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva. Mostly, I'm just correcting a typo in the latitude I had entered. Hope all of your are having a good Sunday morning. A fun evening last, a community dinner ashore with drums and dancing. Brian 'n Mizzy
We're in the anchorage at Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva. Had an easy overnight passage from Tahuata. Chilling here, working on the boat. Some of the usual troublemakers (watermaker), some first-timers (solar controllers). But we have real wifi available, we just completed the paperwork for our 12 month visa here, so life is good! This is a great anchorage, yuge, with good holding. Generally well protected, a bit rolly. Incredible rock formations, a wild landscape. A spot on the pilgrimage route for sailors, for many generations now. It's good to see the couple dozen boats in the anchorage, from all over the world. Mostly smaller and older, few of the newer, million dollar/50+ foot ones. Different from some places we've been. And we're here with our memories of previous stops here, and the people we were with then. Very nice! Brian 'n Mizzy
We're in the anchorage, Hana Vave, at the island of Fatu Hiva. The famous Bay of Virgins/Bay of Phalluses. All very good. A spectacular bay, last night watched a drum and dance session at the local community center/park. Very much by locals, for locals. Amazing, they sure can shake it. We were unable to get here last time we were in French Polynesia, to hard a beat to weather. This time we made it. A deep anchorage, about 10 boats here, 4 are ones we know from farther back. Working today on the solar controller, anchor windlass, and outboard motor. And perhaps a hike to the waterfall. Brian 'n Mizzy
We're in the anchorage, Baie Tahauku, near Atuona, on Hiva Oa, in the Marquesas archipelago. Our passage was about 23.5 days, All in all very good. Hiva Oa seems amazing, awesome scenery and fine people. A few changes since we were last here, there's now a better dingy dock, and a yacht service yard with haul out. Our needs are pretty simple. Anchored inside the harbor now. We're properly checked in, easy and no charge. We plan/hope to go on to Fatu Hiva on Sunday, after the Bastile Day celebration here. Tamare dance competition! All is good! Brian 'n Mizzy
on-passage, Isla de la Plata, Ecuador to Hiva Oa, Marquesas. A bit past half way, all's well. Finally feels like real trade wind sailing; bright sun, some clouds, fresh steady breeze from ESE. Offshore swell, 2 meter, "rolling down the trades". Running right now deep, under just the working genoa. Somewhere out here Bob and Lesley on Moon Rebel, and Toby and Juliet on Sunflower. We may see 'em? Mizzy just made bread!
Well, we are in Bonaire. It's been so long since we made a passage of more than one day. This one was from Martinique, about 470 n.m. We did it in 71 hours, almost all under sail. This boat is quicker than Alegria. And, generally, easier to sail and more comfortable. We had two days of dead down wind in light conditions, so played with learning to use the whisker pole. Unfortunately, it's a Forespar line-adjustable, and collapsed to it's shortest length. A bit of subsequent research discloses that Forespar doesn't recommend it for long downwind passages, and anyway, it's only recommended for boats to 46'. I guess our rig company missed that too. But Forespar is sending me the parts at no charge, I'll learn how to disassemble and repair. Some things don't change . . .
We both like Bonaire. It's heritage is Dutch, that is the primary language, along with a local creole and of course english. Good local supermarket, not too expensive, everything labeled in Dutch. Fresh fruit and some vegies come up on a picturesque boat, from Venezuela. It's lived up to its reputation as a great place to snorkel and scuba, there's hundreds of marked sites. The hurricanes are going by to the north of us, as we'd hoped. And there's a shipping service for stuff from the US, we're hoping that will work out well for us. We also have a replacement watermaker membrane on the way, (see ?some things don?t change?, above), as a warrantee/customer service freebie from Spectra. Planning to linger for a few more weeks here, then on to Curacao, perhaps for a haulout.
on the anchor, in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia. Quite a ways down into the southeast Caribbean. Finally got away from the Virgin Islands, after watermaker problems, fuel injection problems and mosquito-borne illness problems. But all better now. Had great sails down, Virgin Gorda to Dominica. Got there in time for =E2=80=9CYachtie Appreciation Week=E2=80=9D, free moorings and parties! 365 rivers on Dominica, most with waterfalls. And a volcano, currently not too active. Joined there by Steve and Ronnie Finn, they sailed with us for a couple weeks. On to Marinique. Very cool, French wine! And caught Carnival there, pretty wild. Thousands of people, in the streets, very peaceful. And now St. Lucia. All good!
on a mooring, Kelly Cove, Norman=E2=80=99s Cay, BVI=E2=80=99s. Off and cruising again!
on the wharf, Hampton Public Pier. final prep for our run to British Virgin Islands. carousing with the Salty Dawgs
on the anchor in Indian Creek, VA. Here to see Hank and Seale. Onward tomorrow.
on the anchor in Solomon=E2=80=99s Island. Overnight here, then south. Quite a bash getting here, but then a good sail
on a mooring at Oxford, MD, at the Tren Avon YC. Saw Wayne and Sue, now on to Solomon=E2=80=99s Island, MD this a.m.
on a mooring at Annapolis. watermaker fixed (finally). SSB working, too. so onward! planning to go to Oxford yet this afternoon.
finally back in the water, finishing up the painting was delayed by rain associated with Matthew. SSB is better, still waiting on watermaker work. But all is good, expecting to be in Hampton, VA on schedule (26 October).
now hauled out at the Oak Harbor yard. Bottom painted, prop adjusted and greased, ready to go back in the water this afternoon or tomorrow a.m. Weather permitting, still the bottom paint touch-up to be done. =20
anchorred off Oak Harbor Marina/Yard, in Pasadena, Maryland. we=E2=80=99ll haul out the boat on Monday, to paint the bottom, and a =E2=80=9Cfew other things=E2=80=9D (it=E2=80=99s a boat, after all). some friends are still here, and others are coming to visit. optimistic about the yard, etc. expect/hope to be back in the water in less than a week. all good!
anchorred in the middle of the Sassafras River, Maryland again I think. after a run up and through the Delaware/Chesapeake canal, and down to here. very calm and quiet this eve. tomorrow=E2=80=99s travels should get us to the haulout yard, etc.
an un-dramatic run down along New Jersey, and now about half way up the Delaware Bay. at anchor in Cohansey River mouth, just down stream from a nuclear power plant installation. should be a good place to catch 3-eyed fish.
anchorred off Sandy Hook, New Jersey, near Atlantic Highlands. Had a good run down through the city, pretty impressive. We were there for the high-security following the recent explosions. the west side of the East River was closed off, so we were held back a bit from the city. But many awesome and iconic sights and names. NYC has been a force in our pop culture for generations. lots I recognize from Monopoly and Mad magazine. an easy run through Hell Gate, we caught it at slack water. Down the Jersey coast tomorrow, looks like very mild conditions, afraid we=E2=80=99ll be motoring again.
on a mooring (free!) in Manhassett Bay, NYC. Just a few miles from the entrance to the East River, and NYC. Grocery store accessible!
in Lloyd=E2=80=99s, Huntington Harbor, New York (Long Island). On the anchor
in New Haven, Connecticut. Anchored just inside the breakwater. Peaceful evening.
in Mystic, Connecticut. On a mooring, and spent two days at the Mystic Seaport Village museum. Always love that stuff. Now on, further west! Long Island Sound to NYC.
anchorred outside at Cuttyhunk, Massachusetts. Nice small town, got a plate of the local oysters from the Raw Bar/Dock.
finally away from New Bedford. final score: teeth fixed, one pulled. watermaker working better, but some still to go. no success with having the engine checked, but it=E2=80=99s doing OK. no problems, and minimal inconvenience, from Hermine. and we had a good time! crossed over through Woods Hole (fierce currents) to Vineyard Haven, on Martha=E2=80=99s Vineyard island. anchored here as a cold front passes. a very fun spot!
finally away from New Bedford. final score: teeth fixed, one pulled. watermaker working better, some still to go. no success with having the engine checked, but it=E2=80=99s doing OK. no problems, and minimal inconvenience, from Hermine. and we had a good time! crossed over through Woods Hole (fierce currents) to Vineyard Haven, on Martha=E2=80=99s Vineyard island. anchored here as a cold front passes. a very fun spot!
on a mooring, New Bedford, Massachusetts. came here to get our watermaker fixed by the local Spectra reps. also found that acceleration is slow on the diesel, probably the turbo. so we=E2=80=99ll have that looked at, too. also hurricane/now tropical storm Hermine is nearby, so we=E2=80=99re waiting on its passing. and getting some long-delayed dental work done. etc. New Bedford is a working waterfront, dominated by the fishing fleet. has an amazing whaling museum, more scrimshaw than I ever imagined. rum featured in the local taverns, also craft brews. and quahogs! probably here through Wednesday . . .
on a mooring, Mattapoisette, Massachusetts. feels like we escaped the coming cold in Maine just in time. here mostly to get our watermaker fixed. and also found that thereâs a compass adjuster who lives and works here, heâll be aboard later today to do this. finally found the mysterious leak in the aft head area yesterday. the joys of boat life! and also found, and I think understood, 3 more in the engine bay! and itâs Sunday, so some boat cleaning. All good!
on a mooring, Provincetown Harbor, Massachusetts
anchored for a night or two, inner harbor, Gloucester, MA
on a mooring at Portland Yacht Club, into the weekend
lingering here on the anchor. Starting south on Thursday, heading towards the Chesapeake
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