Second Wind

Fri Aug 23 15:30 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 38.502S 151 25.869W
Run: 8.7nm (15.7km)
Weather: Wind E 12k. Sea E 0.1m. Baro 1019mb and steady. Cloud 10%.

We heard the best poisson cru in the Leeward Islands is at Snack Mac China in Haamene Bay, so we made a side trip there for lunch; well worth it! Now we're anchored near the reef at Motu Mahaea.


Thu Aug 22 16:09 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 36.203S 151 33.416W
Run: 17.3nm (31.3km)
Weather: Wind NE 12k. Sea NE 0.3m. Baro 1020mb, a increase of 2mb in the last 12 hours. Cloud 20%.

Before we leave this lagoon for the last time, we had to return to Motu Tautau and swim with all the fish in the Coral River one more time. What a delight!


Wed Aug 21 15:21 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 48.697S 151 24.710W
Run: 12.5nm (22.6km)
Weather: Wind NE 8k. Sea NE 0.2m. Baro 1018mb, a increase of 3mb in the last 24 hours. Cloud 100%, light rain.

We moved to Faaroa Bay on the east side of Raiatea for a brief rendezvous with some new friends. It's still not swimming weather, but a plus: the rain is washing the salt from yesterday's passage off our deck and windows.


Tue Aug 20 17:09 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 39.608S 151 30.907W
Run: 19.8nm (35.8km)
Weather: Wind ENE 20k . Sea NE 2m. Baro 1015mb, a decrease of 5mb in the last 24 hours. Cloud 30%.

We punched our way back to Taha'a and found a calm anchorage in Patii Bay. Conditions below are outside the lagoon.


Sun Aug 18 15:12 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 31.015S 151 46.405W
Run: 1.5nm (2.7km)
Weather: Wind E 18k with frequent gusts 20-25. Sea ENE 0.3m. Baro 1022mb, a slight increase. Cloud 30%.

We are ready to leave Bora Bora but are on a mooring in the lee of Motu Toopua, waiting for more favorable wind and swell conditions outside the lagoon. (Why head into a 3m washing machine if we don't have to?)


Fri Aug 16 15:57 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 30.047S 151 45.492W
Run: 2.1nm (3.8km)
Weather: Wind E 13k. Sea ENE 0.2m. Baro 1019mb and steady. Cloud 20%.

Bora Bora is our turn-around point, so we are back at Vaitape to reprovision and start heading east. Of note: Anchoring is now strongly discouraged at BB. Moorings have been installed in the popular anchorages and a single company is overseeing all of them (including the ones formerly associated with BBYC, Mai Kai, and Bloody Mary's). The commercialization is a disappointment, but given the exponential increase in cruising and particularly charter boats here, the change is understandable.


Wed Aug 14 14:39 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 31.559S 151 44.497W
Run: 2.2nm (4km)
Weather: Wind ENE 16k. Sea ENE 0.2m. Baro 1019mb and steady. Cloud 10%.

The Taurere anchorage was comfortable in stronger winds, and when the wind eased we had fun swimming with rays. Now we're on a mooring near Bloody Mary's, where we will celebrate our 45th anniversary (a few days early).


Wed Aug 7 15:09 2019 NZST
GPS: 16 31.807S 151 42.536W
Run: 2.6nm (4.7km)

We moved to Taurere, an excellent anchorage. It is reasonably well protected from the trades, with less current and less traffic than the other anchorages


Mon Aug 5 15:54 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 29.525S 151 42.256W
Run: 3.7nm (6.7km)
Weather: Wind E 6k. Sea calm in the lagoon. Baro 1019mb and steady. Cloud 10%.

After completing some errands in Vaitape, we moved around to the east side of Bora Bora and are anchored near Motu Tupe. It was a tricky entrance (shallow with lots of bommies) and there is small boat traffic to/from the nearby resorts, but it is a pretty and pleasant anchorage.


Sat Aug 3 14:21 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 29.432S 151 45.629W
Run: 1.7nm (3.1km)
Weather: Wind E 10-15k. Sea E 0.1m. Baro 1018 and steady. Cloud 50%.

Winds have eased so we moved to a mooring at the Bora Bora Yacht Club, where we can walk into town for errands and internet.


Tue Jul 30 6:00 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 30.790S 151 46.175W
Run: 18.6nm (33.7km)
Weather: Outside the lagoon winds are ESE 22k and waves ESE 2.5m, but the water in this anchorage is calm; wind is S 8, 15k in squalls. Baro 1020mb, a slight increase. Cloud 95% with frequent squalls.

In current weather we had 3 options at Taha'a: 1) endure wind bullets in a bay anchorage, 2) endure rough fetch in a reef anchorage, 3) sail to Bora Bora. We chose Door #3. We're anchored in the lee of Motu Toopoa, where we feel blissfully secure.


Sat Jul 27 14:45 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 38.776S 151 31.500W
Run: 3.6nm (6.5km)
Weather: Outside the bay winds are SE 20k and waves 0.5m, but the water in the anchorage is calm; wind is ENE 8 with occasional gusts. Baro 1017mb, a slight decrease. Cloud 70%.

After one last fabulous float at the Coral River, we relocated to Hurepiti Bay. It's a bit shallower and feels calmer than Tapuamu Bay, where many other boats are headed. During these next few windy days, Art will do some rewiring of the watermaker, and we hope to take a long hike.


Fri Jul 26 14:54 2019 NZST
GPS: 16 36.216S 151 33.392W
Run: 13.2nm (23.9km)

With stronger winds predicted in a couple of days, we wanted to be on the leeward side of an island; so we sailed back to Taha'a. We're anchored at Motu Tautau, near the Coral Garden


Thu Jul 25 14:36 2019 NZST
GPS: 16 44.826S 151 25.557W
Run: 5nm (9.1km)

Anchored at Motu Taoru, where we had a terrific snorkel in the pass. We saw several fishes we'd never seen before (after all this time, even one new species is a delightful surprise), and a very large eel


Mon Jul 22 15:24 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 49.119S 151 24.952W
Run: 3.3nm (6km)
Weather: Wind NE 12k. Sea NE 0.2m. Baro 1017mb and steady. Cloud 80%.

We're anchored at Faaroa Bay, where there is a fun dinghy river trip. We're on the windward side of Raiatea, but this is a secure anchorage (35', mud).


Sat Jul 20 14:45 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 49.827S 151 22.008W
Run: 19nm (34.4km)
Weather: Wind ESE 16k. Sea ESE 0.2m. Baro 1017mb and steady. Cloud 70%.

At Opoa Bay on Raiatea to visit the impressive Taputapuatea Marae. It's not a good anchorage (very deep until right next to shore) and one of their two moorings is nearly chafed through. We'll move on tomorrow, but the marae was worth the white knuckles!


Tue Jul 16 10:03 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 36.868S 151 32.725W
Run: 4.9nm (8.9km)
Weather: Wind SE 10k. Sea SE 0.2m. Baro 1018, rising slightly. Cloud 10%.

Heiva dances, performed by all the island's villages, were terrific! Mooring buoys at Patio had disappeared since our last visit, but we've moved on to Tapuamu and their 3 moorings are still intact.


Sun Jul 14 13:51 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 34.687S 151 28.955W
Run: 5.6nm (10.1km)
Weather: Wind E 8k. Sea rippled in the lagoon. Baro 1015 and steady. Cloud 40%.

Snorkeling around the motu was fantastic! We moved on to Patio for the last 2 days of their Heiva festival (dancing and food). The moorings are gone so we anchored east of town.


Sat Jul 13 15:15 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 16 38.455S 151 25.728W
Run: 121.4nm (219.7km)
Weather: Wind S 8k. Sea S 1m outside the reef, rippled in the lagoon. Baro 1016, decreasing slightly. Cloud 10%.

After a delightfully laid back stay at Moorea, we had a calm overnight passage to Taha'a. We're anchored near Motu Mahaea.


Sun Jul 7 15:54 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 17 28.894S 149 48.893W
Run: 16.9nm (30.6km)
Weather: Wind light and variable. Sea 1.5m mixed outside the reef, with slight waves in the anchorage. Baro 1016mb, decreasing slightly. Cloud 90%.

Strong winds and reports of crowded anchorages at Moorea kept us in Papeete an extra week. (After being hit by a vessel dragging anchor last year, we had no desire to get into a similar situation!) We finally made the short trip to Cook's Bay (Moorea) today, where the backdrop scenery is truly awesome.


Tue Jun 25 14:54 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 17 33.378S 149 34.221W
Run: 3.6nm (6.5km)
Weather: Wind light and variable. Sea nil. Baro 1022mb, increasing slightly. Cloud 15%.

We moved to the Marina de Papeete, right downtown. We now have our carte de sejeour in hand, so our long stay visa is now official! Plans are to stay through their Autonomy Day celebrations this weekend, then sail to nearby Moorea early next week.


Sat Jun 15 15:27 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 17 34.524S 149 37.290W
Run: 116.4nm (210.7km)
Avg: 4.7knts
24hr: 112nm
Weather: Wind SE 5k. Sea NE 1m outside the reef, rippled inside. Baro 1018mb, decreasing slightly. Cloud 40%.

Papeete is much more crowded than when we were here 4 years ago! Both marinas are full and vessels are anchored all along the inner channel. We found a spot to drop the hook south of downtown; inconvenient, but it will have to do for now. Since we have to finalize the paperwork for our long-stay visa here, we will probably be in Papeete for a while. No chance of getting bored, though; we passed up museums, gardens, etc. our first time around, so there is plenty to see while we're waiting.


Fri Jun 14 14:30 2019 NZST
Speed:
5.5k
knts
GPS: 19 12.2S 149 09.9W
Run: 179.4nm (324.7km)
Avg: 7.4knts
24hr: 178.3nm
Weather: Wind E 20k. Sea E 2.6m. Baro 1021mb, a slight decrease. Cloud 60% with occasional squalls.

We have great wind for our course, and are having to reduce sail in order to make our final approach to Tahiti in daylight tomorrow. Is that a hot shower I hear calling?


Thu Jun 13 14:21 2019 NZST
Speed:
7k
knts
GPS: 21 41.2S 148 21.5W
Run: 149.9nm (271.3km)
Avg: 6.4knts
24hr: 152.8nm
Weather: Wind E 17k. Sea E 3m. Baro 1023mb and steady. Cloud 80%.

Easterlies filled in late yesterday afternoon and we've been at a gallop ever since. We had a Rainbow Morning: numerous rain showers in the vicinity, but enough sunshine to light them up with colors.


Wed Jun 12 14:48 2019 NZST
Speed:
4k
knts
GPS: 23 46.0S 147 41.6W
Run: 6.8nm (12.3km)
Weather: Wind ENE 7k. Sea ENE 1m waves over SW 3.8m swells. Baro 1024mb, decreasing slowly. Cloud 95% with light squalls.

We thoroughly enjoyed Raivavae, particularly our long walks around & over the island, and feasting on pamplemousse! Now it's time to move on; we departed for Papeete this morning.


Mon May 27 14:57 2019 NZST
Speed:
0k
knts
GPS: 23 51.932S 147 41.347W
Run: 115.2nm (208.5km)
Avg: 4.8knts
24hr: 114nm
Weather: Wind ESE 18k with frequent gusts to 25. Sea E .2m. Baro 1020mb and steady. Cloud 90%.

Landfall! Given yesterday's conditions we weren't sure we would arrive today, but overnight the wind became a consistent ESE 25-30k so we managed to make it. The anchorage is far from calm (see below) but we set an anchor alarm and took a very long nap! We're looking forward to exploring Raivavae and may stay here a couple of weeks; I'll file YIT reports again when we start sailing north to Tahiti.


Sun May 26 14:42 2019 NZST
Speed:
4k
knts
GPS: 25 27.7S 148 13.2W
Run: 145.5nm (263.4km)
Avg: 6knts
24hr: 142.8nm
Weather: Wind changing frequently, NNE through SE; average 12k with 25k in squalls. Sea mixed 3m. Baro 1020mb and steady. Cloud 100% with frequent squalls and rain.

Yesterday afternoon we encountered SE winds precisely on cue and we were able to execute Plan A (keep same direction with sails up, directly to Raivavae). Apparently one of the weather gods decided things were going too smoothly, as today has been a mess! No dependable wind speed or direction, messy seas, lots of rain (and lots of sail changes).


Sat May 25 14:15 2019 NZST
Speed:
4.7k
knts
GPS: 27 29.4S 148 51.0W
Run: 136.7nm (247.4km)
Avg: 6.1knts
24hr: 147.5nm
Weather: Wind light and variable. Sea SSW 3m. Baro 1021mb and steady. Cloud 95%.

Ugh, still motoring. We should reach the band of easterlies any time now...


Fri May 24 16:00 2019 NZST
Speed:
4.5k
knts
GPS: 29 21.9S 149 33.8W
Run: 129.7nm (234.8km)
Avg: 5.4knts
24hr: 128.6nm
Weather: Wind light and variable. Sea SSW 4m. Baro 1021mb and steady. Cloud 70%.

Gribs have been remarkably accurate on this passage, so we banked on being able to drive north in an upcoming calm. Sure enough, winds died as predicted; we fired up the engine and are heading slightly east of the rhumb line to Raivavae. Even with no wind for a while, the swells are still magnificent!


Thu May 23 15:48 2019 NZST
Speed:
6k
knts
GPS: 31 06.3S 150 22.7W
Run: 155.1nm (280.7km)
Avg: 6.5knts
24hr: 157.1nm
Weather: Wind SW 12k. Sea SSW 4m. Baro 1020mb, rising slightly. Cloud 35%.

Soon we'll need to turn more northerly, but for now winds are still taking us ENE rather than NE. Still moving well though, it's quite a fun sleigh ride downwind on these large swells! We've started to see a few seabirds again, a different species this time. It sounded like they were speaking French.


Wed May 22 16:06 2019 NZST
Speed:
5.5k
knts
GPS: 31 51.7S 152 51.3W
Run: 151.2nm (273.7km)
Avg: 6.1knts
24hr: 146.3nm
Weather: Wind SW 15k. Sea SSW 4m. Baro 1017mb and steady. Cloud 30%.

So far we had been able to sail the direction we wanted, but the most recent wind change meant we are having to head off a bit. That's called a passage, though, and so far we're still making progress, so no complaints on this ship!


Tue May 21 15:18 2019 NZST
Speed:
6.5k
knts
GPS: 32 29.7S 155 19.7W
Run: 180.7nm (327.1km)
Avg: 7.9knts
24hr: 188.6nm
Weather: Wind WSW 20k. Sea WSW 3.3m and building. Baro 1017mb and steady. Cloud 25%.

We're riding the periphery of a low and having a great run! It's a bit warmer as we work our way north, but there aren't nearly as many seabirds.


Mon May 20 16:18 2019 NZST
GPS: 34 01.3S 157 52.0W
Run: 142.1nm (257.2km)
Avg: 5.7knts
24hr: 137.5nm

Sailing was slow overnight but picked up briskly in the morning. Conventional advice for this passage is to wait until reaching 155W before turning north, but gribs showed turning earlier could be advantageous


Sun May 19 15:30 2019 NZST
GPS: 35 04.3S 160 00.8W
Run: 136.6nm (247.2km)
Avg: 5.7knts
24hr: 137.5nm

Yesterday afternoon's succession of strong squalls gave way to a mostly clear night with frequent gusts over 35k. The full moon on 4.5 m seas was a sight to behold! As the center of the high approached, winds calmed but seas are still large, so we're motorsailing for a while to keep from banging around so much. We're paying tribute to passing the halfway point (in terms of miles) by having a NZ breakfast and a FP dinner. (Not as exciting as it sounds


Sat May 18 15:39 2019 NZST
Speed:
6.5k
knts
GPS: 35 37.7S 162 20.3W
Run: 139.9nm (253.2km)
Weather: Wind SW22. Sea SW 4.5m. Baro 1011 mb, rising gradually. Cloud 99%.

Continuing to enjoy the seabirds and large waves, and making good easterly progress. Position reports are from noon and this was our "base rate"; we spent the afternoon running downwind in front of frequent heavy squalls.


Sat May 18 15:39 2019 NZST
Speed:
6.8k
knts
GPS: 35 45.6S 164 49.5W
Run: 169nm (305.9km)
Avg: 3.6knts
24hr: 86.3nm
Weather: Wind W22k. Sea WNW 4m. Baro 1007mb, decreasing gradually. Cloud 40% with light squalls.

Winds were 25-30k overnight with gusts and squalls of winds 35-40k. We were glad we'd dropped to 3rd reef before dark so the feisty night wasn't problematic. We're also grateful that the wind is behind us, and we're making good progress. *This report may not have been filed properly on 17 May so I'm sending it again on 18 May (NZ date).


Fri May 17 17:42 2019 NZST
Speed:
6.8k
knts
No position sent.
Weather: Wind W22k. Sea WNW 4m. Baro 1007mb, decreasing gradually. Cloud 40% with light squalls.

Winds were 25-30k overnight with gusts and squalls of winds 35-40k. We were glad we'd dropped to 3rd reef before dark so the feisty night wasn't problematic. We're also grateful that the wind is behind us, and we're making good progress.


Thu May 16 16:39 2019 NZST
Speed:
6k
knts
GPS: 35 58.5S 167 49.9W
Run: 115.7nm (209.4km)
Avg: 4.9knts
24hr: 118.7nm
Weather: Wind W20. Sea W 2.2m. Baro 1012mb, decreasing gradually. Cloud 30%.

We came a bit south to be ready for predicted westerlies, and are now on a downwind run with main on 2nd reef.


Wed May 15 17:15 2019 NZST
Speed:
4.5k
knts
GPS: 35 31.0S 169 48.9W
Run: 129.9nm (235.1km)
Avg: 5.3knts
24hr: 126.5nm
Weather: Wind light and variable. Sea S 3.4m. Baro 1018.5mb, a slight decrease. Cloud 30%.

Motoring in virtually no wind and beautiful swells. An albatross has visited a few times today, along with other seabirds; marvelous! Art was a carpenter at sea, repairing a hinge that broke on our companionway door.


Tue May 14 16:36 2019 NZST
Speed:
6.5k
knts
GPS: 35 42.6S 172 06.9W
Run: 133.4nm (241.5km)
Avg: 5.6knts
24hr: 133.7nm
Weather: Wind SSE 22k. Sea S 3m. Baro 1020, rising gradually. Cloud 70%.

Squalls with 35-40k winds and heavy rain appeared overnight, but the old gals were primed for the event and came through in style (Second Wind down to just inner foresail, crew in foulies). Wind is backing, seas are getting rougher; it's a frisky ride but not a bad one.


Mon May 13 16:39 2019 NZST
GPS: 36 03.7S 174 27.5W
Run: 151.9nm (274.9km)
Avg: 6.3knts
24hr: 151nm

The low pressure system arrived punctually at midnight, at which point we were very glad that 1)we are members of the Reef Early, Reef Deep Club, and 2)we weren't any closer to the center of the low. Right know we're just trying to keep Second Wind at the most advantageous angle to the waves. (And sadly


Sun May 12 16:30 2019 NZST
GPS: 35 59.9S 177 10.5W
Run: 153.5nm (277.8km)
Avg: 6.4knts
24hr: 153.5nm

Still making good time, and trying to best position ourselves for the low pressure system soon to arrive. Ideally we'll end up near the top of it, not down in it! We were intrigued by a small land bird that found its way into our cockpit, at least 400 miles from home. When it flew away we were concerned it would perish, but a couple hours later it returned


Sat May 11 16:30 2019 NZST
Speed:
5.5k
knts
GPS: 35 59.7S 179 55.2W
Run: 149.1nm (269.9km)
Avg: 6.2knts
24hr: 147.9nm
Weather: Wind WNW 12k. Sea WNW 1.2 m. Baro 1028 and steady. Cloud 10%.

The strategy was to sail ESE but since the wind backed, we're able to head east at best. But no complaints, we're moving nicely (and the fortune cookie said this heading may put us in a better position for the incoming low).


Fri May 10 16:18 2019 NZST
Speed:
6.2k
knts
GPS: 36 06.9S 177 24.9E
Run: 174.5nm (315.8km)
Weather: Wind N 10k. Sea N 1m. Baro 1027, an increase of 2 mb over the last 24 hours. Cloud 40%.

We've had breezes of 10-20k and mostly sunny skies; what a great start on our passage to Raivavae!


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