Second Wind is now at a slip in Ala Wai Boat Harbor, and we felt an update about marina conditions would be appropriate. Contrary to information found online, there is no longer a fuel dock in the harbor, nor are there pumpout or laundry facilities. Shower keys require a $100 deposit per gender and don't always work. As of November 2019, moorage rates increased considerably; in addition, they charge $10 per person per day as a liveaboard fee. On the upside, many people found these conditions onerous and have left the marina, so there is no longer a shortage of available slips. We will stay here for the time being since the location is ideal, but are likely to look for alternatives after the first of the year.

We docked at Ala Wai Harbor in Honolulu at 0900, after a very boisterous final 120 miles. The Customs officer said the weather was unusually windy (good to know we weren't imagining the challenges). But here we are, officially back in the USA. We don't plan on making another YIT post until the next time the boat changes location, which is likely to be March 2020.

After a restful afternoon & night, we set sail early this morning and are on the final sprint into Honolulu

After a restful afternoon & night, we set sail early this morning and are on the final sprint into Honolulu

We were welcomed to the state of Hawaii by our first clear night sky and the northern hemisphere stars. We dropped our sails around noon & are bobbing along in the lee of the Big Island, trying to time our arrival in Honolulu by daylight and figuring this would be the calmest place between here and there to hang out. It's giving us a chance to tidy up ourselves & the boat so we'll be presentable to Customs officials.

Every night of this passage has been squally, and last night's were particularly intense

A little more sun + a little less wind = a more pleasant day. Wind is on the aft starboard quarter, just where we wanted it, and we have about 400 miles left.

After a week of seeing nothing but gray by day & black by night, we were treated to some patches of blue around midday. With fewer squalls and not so much downwind, the jib is flying again

We dropped to second reef late yesterday afternoon, then in a strong and prolonged squall last night decided to furl in the jib. Since we're not racing anyone to Hawaii and the gribs show conditions building rather than abating, we're sticking with the reduced sail plan for now.

It's Thanksgiving Day in the USA, and we have much to be thankful for. In addition to this precious planet and our loving family & friends, we have under 900 miles to go and will have freshly caught tuna for our feast!

Light wind + large waves overnight meant motoring again, but we got back into wind around 10N; that was our turning point. Our strategy was to head north until past the ITCZ, then head NW and more or less sail the rhumb line to Oahu. Theoretically that would give us a more favorable wind angle for the last long leg (wind at least on the beam, if not slightly aft, the whole way). We'll see how those best laid plans play out...

A wet night, then a wet & wild morning; we've never had this much torrential rain on a passage before! But at least there's plenty of wind; with sustained gusts over 30k, we're reefed and still making good progress through the large sloppy waves.

We're in the ITCZ, but it has its advantages: the rain is washing salt off the decks & solar panels, and having the engine on has allowed us to make water.

It's a bit calmer today, which we welcomed. We're not quite able to make our desired course but are happy to be sailing rather than driving in this latitude. Fun to watch flying fish & seabirds by day, bioluminescence by night.

Yesterday afternoon Art noticed a problem with the gooseneck & we decided to drop the main until we could fix the problem. Fortunately the wind moved SE, so with jib alone we were able to keep on course with a slight loss of speed. This morning a little ingenuity and a big hammer resolved the issue (though with this wind angle, we're staying with just the jib anyway).

We crossed the equator last night and are now in the northern hemisphere! Second Wind was in the South Pacific almost exactly 4 1/2 years...We then made a slight course change to NNW and the wind clocked, so we had a delightful downwind day.

I had made an error in plotting one of the intermediary waypoints on our route (fortunately not one we're headed for yet). When I corrected it, the overall route was shortened by about 100 miles. Despite things going well, that was good news!

Though we're a little more upwind today, the wind strength and waves are a little lighter. We're a bit slower but more comfortable

Conditions are stronger than predicted, but winds are favorable & we're making excellent progress.

Off to a great start on our passage to Hawaii!

The fuel line problem appears to be fixed; whew! We're stocking food & fuel, and watching the weather forecasts. Early next week is looking promising, but of course it's too soon to tell.

After our record slowest passage in terms of average daily distance made good, we chose landfall at Daniel's Bay to rest in its slightly less rolly location and stretch our legs on the long walk to the waterfall. Missions accomplished, this morning we moved around to Taiohae. There is a long list of tasks to complete prior to our departure for Hawai'i, most important of which is figuring out how air is getting into the fuel lines. Of note: this is our last anchorage in the South Pacific! (Ouch, that hurts.)

What a passage! Instead of a final run with predicted E16 winds, we clawed our way in to Hakatea (Daniel's Bay) with 20k headwinds and big seas. As an added bonus, we have a fuel problem that is causing the engine to stop

Last night we made our last long tack toward our destination. We're still close hauled but at least all the miles under the keel are distance made good.

Yesterday we bashed upwind with minimal progress toward our destination. With a slight change of wind angle and speed, we're having to bash harder, but we're able to make necessary easting. A big plus: we got to watch a pod of dolphins play at the bow!

We finally crossed out of the wide swath of light air into latitudes with more wind predicted. It's a relief to finally do some good sailing, though with all the tacking necessary, landfall will be at least a full day later than we'd hoped.

Today is Halloween, and it's been a day of tricks & treats. Treats: spells of enough wind to do some good sailing, and sighting a group of whales in the distance. Tricks: longer spells of little wind, sometimes ghosting and sometimes burning fuel. No costumes for us tonight, but we'll have chili for dinner (a long family tradition

Winds here are often lighter & more NE this time of year, so we were expecting a slow passage

Shortly before noon we exited our final pass in the Dangerous Archipelago

Kamoka turned out well; Albert, its lone resident, brought us freshly husked coconuts yesterday and we had him over for coffee this morning. After maneuvering around more pearl nets and bommies, we're now anchored near the NE corner of the atoll by Chez Raita. Tonight we'll have our first meal off the boat in over a month, mmmmm!

We had a nice time in the village then waited for a day with good visibility before navigating to our next anchorage

Dropped anchor outside the village of Tenukupara in Ahe at 0830. We're in the small inner lagoon, apparently a favorite of Bernard Moitessier; it's fun to know he anchored here! In the next couple of days we'll play in the school and look for some black pearls.

En route to Ahe, unfortunately under power (no wind in the forecast for days, and we need to be making gradual progress toward Nuku Hiva). At least it's a nice day for a drive, and we're enjoying reading our books...

We completed our circumnavigation of Tikehau by sailing back to the pass, anchored at Motu Teonai. Depending on the weather forecast, tomorrow we'll either do some fishing and swimming here, or push on to Ahe.

We wanted to check out Motu Hiraumaine; turns out it's just a coral spit with a few bushes. There's no wind protection and minimal protection from fetch. That said, Shore Explores on the spit and the nearby reef motu are fascinating!

Yesterday we had some good snorkeling at Motu Mauu, then anchored off of Tavania Islet for the night. Today we had a beautiful sail up the atoll to Motu Puarua, which is a bird sanctuary. The sight and sound of hundreds? thousands? of terns and frigates is quite something!

The wind finally shifted and so did we. After some delightful experiences in Tuherahera village, we moved a short distance up the atoll to Motu Aua.

A short overnight passage brought us to Tikehau, where we anchored near the wharf at Tuherahera village shortly before the weather deteriorated. Haven't gone ashore yet, but this looks like a good place to be stuck for a few days.

Makatea is a rare raised coral atoll, with no pass, no lagoon, and high steep vertical cliffs. Though it was worth the side trip to see it, we can't recommend it as a stopover. The two moorings are in very good condition, but they are alarmingly close to big surf breaking on rocks.

Had an easy exit from Tehere Pass at one hour after low tide, and are now en route to Makatea.

Anchored at Roto Ava, a mile from Tehere Pass; still no inhabitants or vessels in sight. Plan A is to snorkel the pass tomorrow, then depart for Makatea the next day.

Yesterday we ghosted up the eastern side of the atoll and anchored at Point Teonemahina, the NE corner. This is a magical place, protected by miles of uninhabited motu; we are alone in a blue paradise! For cruisers: the route is free of hazards, as long as one stays on the shore side of the pearl floats. Navionics accurately charts the location of all shallows, though depths are inaccurate ("16 ft" was actually awash).

Correction! Last post said 14 36S but that was a typo; we were at 15 36S, Apataki atoll. Sorry! Yesterday we moved up the atoll to Motu Omiro, where we enjoyed exploring coral spits; today we went to the next motu and are anchored in front of the Apataki Careenage at Tamaro. Assam's Pearl Farm is gone; Assam retired and his son & grandson built an impressive shipyard

We arrived at Apataki's Pakaka Pass 3 hours after our intended transit, but we made it through on a 2k incoming current with no problems. Whew! Now we're anchored near Motu Rua Vahine; not much protection, but not much needed for the next day or so.

Left Papeete yesterday around noon, bound for Apataki. Predicted E15 winds turned out to be NE20's; they've eased but are still from the direction we want to go. We recall that one definition of sailing is going slowly in the wrong direction! That said, it's a lovely day to be out on the ocean.

We moved to Marina de Papeete for pre-departure errands, only to discover that the facilities are under construction and there are no showers, laundry or internet. Bummer!

We've arrived back in Papeete, completing what turned out to be a wonderful 9-week loop through the Society Islands. We expect to be in this area for a couple of weeks, preparing to sail to the Tuamotus. Right now we're anchored near Marina Taina

After we saw the underwater tikis and fed the stingrays (wow!), we skedaddled back to the more protected anchorage at the NE entrance to Opunohu Bay, then moved this morning to the NE entrance of Cook's Bay. Conditions are predicted to be calm in a couple of days, so we'll head back to Papeete then.

Opunohu Bay was as secure as it was beautiful, and hiking in the valley was excellent. We finally moved back to an outer anchorage, this time slightly west of the village of Papetoai. This anchorage is frequented because it's close to snorkeling destinations (sting ray feeding, underwater tikis), but we're not keen on it; it's exposed and too close to shallows with lots of bombies. Once we've seen the underwater attractions, we'll move somewhere more protected.

With fairly strong winds predicted for the next few days, we anchored at the head of Opunohu Bay. We'll probably get wind bullets here but we're in 20' of water with a good holding on a mud bottom. We would have had to move anyway, as work is being started to place moorings where we had been anchored; also, it's not snorkeling weather for a while. In this anchorage we have access to hiking trails and a shrimp farm (ooh, I can make a shrimp dinner for my birthday!).

We were sorry to leave Huahine so soon, but it was a good choice: rather than (the normal) hard upwind beat back to Moorea, we had a calm overnight sail with winds mostly behind us. We're anchored near the entrance to Opunohu Bay and expect to be in Moorea for at least a week.

We expected to stay at Huahine for longer, but incoming winds will give us a much easier sail back to Moorea

On a mooring at the head of Port Bourayne, where there is a rarity of rarities in FP: 1) a sand beach, that 2) is public. Picnic on a beach towel, woo-hoo!

Had a pleasant light upwind sail to Huahine, where we're on a mooring at lovely Avea Bay (anchoring discouraged here also). We plan to spend several days at this island, exploring anchorages we bypassed 4 years ago.

We heard the best poisson cru in the Leeward Islands is at Snack Mac China in Haamene Bay, so we made a side trip there for lunch; well worth it! Now we're anchored near the reef at Motu Mahaea.

Before we leave this lagoon for the last time, we had to return to Motu Tautau and swim with all the fish in the Coral River one more time. What a delight!

We moved to Faaroa Bay on the east side of Raiatea for a brief rendezvous with some new friends. It's still not swimming weather, but a plus: the rain is washing the salt from yesterday's passage off our deck and windows.

We punched our way back to Taha'a and found a calm anchorage in Patii Bay. Conditions below are outside the lagoon.

We are ready to leave Bora Bora but are on a mooring in the lee of Motu Toopua, waiting for more favorable wind and swell conditions outside the lagoon. (Why head into a 3m washing machine if we don't have to?)

Bora Bora is our turn-around point, so we are back at Vaitape to reprovision and start heading east. Of note: Anchoring is now strongly discouraged at BB. Moorings have been installed in the popular anchorages and a single company is overseeing all of them (including the ones formerly associated with BBYC, Mai Kai, and Bloody Mary's). The commercialization is a disappointment, but given the exponential increase in cruising and particularly charter boats here, the change is understandable.

The Taurere anchorage was comfortable in stronger winds, and when the wind eased we had fun swimming with rays. Now we're on a mooring near Bloody Mary's, where we will celebrate our 45th anniversary (a few days early).

We moved to Taurere, an excellent anchorage. It is reasonably well protected from the trades, with less current and less traffic than the other anchorages

After completing some errands in Vaitape, we moved around to the east side of Bora Bora and are anchored near Motu Tupe. It was a tricky entrance (shallow with lots of bommies) and there is small boat traffic to/from the nearby resorts, but it is a pretty and pleasant anchorage.

Winds have eased so we moved to a mooring at the Bora Bora Yacht Club, where we can walk into town for errands and internet.

In current weather we had 3 options at Taha'a: 1) endure wind bullets in a bay anchorage, 2) endure rough fetch in a reef anchorage, 3) sail to Bora Bora. We chose Door #3. We're anchored in the lee of Motu Toopoa, where we feel blissfully secure.

After one last fabulous float at the Coral River, we relocated to Hurepiti Bay. It's a bit shallower and feels calmer than Tapuamu Bay, where many other boats are headed. During these next few windy days, Art will do some rewiring of the watermaker, and we hope to take a long hike.

With stronger winds predicted in a couple of days, we wanted to be on the leeward side of an island; so we sailed back to Taha'a. We're anchored at Motu Tautau, near the Coral Garden

Anchored at Motu Taoru, where we had a terrific snorkel in the pass. We saw several fishes we'd never seen before (after all this time, even one new species is a delightful surprise), and a very large eel

We're anchored at Faaroa Bay, where there is a fun dinghy river trip. We're on the windward side of Raiatea, but this is a secure anchorage (35', mud).

At Opoa Bay on Raiatea to visit the impressive Taputapuatea Marae. It's not a good anchorage (very deep until right next to shore) and one of their two moorings is nearly chafed through. We'll move on tomorrow, but the marae was worth the white knuckles!

Heiva dances, performed by all the island's villages, were terrific! Mooring buoys at Patio had disappeared since our last visit, but we've moved on to Tapuamu and their 3 moorings are still intact.

Snorkeling around the motu was fantastic! We moved on to Patio for the last 2 days of their Heiva festival (dancing and food). The moorings are gone so we anchored east of town.

After a delightfully laid back stay at Moorea, we had a calm overnight passage to Taha'a. We're anchored near Motu Mahaea.

Strong winds and reports of crowded anchorages at Moorea kept us in Papeete an extra week. (After being hit by a vessel dragging anchor last year, we had no desire to get into a similar situation!) We finally made the short trip to Cook's Bay (Moorea) today, where the backdrop scenery is truly awesome.

We moved to the Marina de Papeete, right downtown. We now have our carte de sejeour in hand, so our long stay visa is now official! Plans are to stay through their Autonomy Day celebrations this weekend, then sail to nearby Moorea early next week.

Papeete is much more crowded than when we were here 4 years ago! Both marinas are full and vessels are anchored all along the inner channel. We found a spot to drop the hook south of downtown; inconvenient, but it will have to do for now. Since we have to finalize the paperwork for our long-stay visa here, we will probably be in Papeete for a while. No chance of getting bored, though; we passed up museums, gardens, etc. our first time around, so there is plenty to see while we're waiting.

We have great wind for our course, and are having to reduce sail in order to make our final approach to Tahiti in daylight tomorrow. Is that a hot shower I hear calling?

Easterlies filled in late yesterday afternoon and we've been at a gallop ever since. We had a Rainbow Morning: numerous rain showers in the vicinity, but enough sunshine to light them up with colors.

We thoroughly enjoyed Raivavae, particularly our long walks around & over the island, and feasting on pamplemousse! Now it's time to move on; we departed for Papeete this morning.

Landfall! Given yesterday's conditions we weren't sure we would arrive today, but overnight the wind became a consistent ESE 25-30k so we managed to make it. The anchorage is far from calm (see below) but we set an anchor alarm and took a very long nap! We're looking forward to exploring Raivavae and may stay here a couple of weeks; I'll file YIT reports again when we start sailing north to Tahiti.

Yesterday afternoon we encountered SE winds precisely on cue and we were able to execute Plan A (keep same direction with sails up, directly to Raivavae). Apparently one of the weather gods decided things were going too smoothly, as today has been a mess! No dependable wind speed or direction, messy seas, lots of rain (and lots of sail changes).

Ugh, still motoring. We should reach the band of easterlies any time now...

Gribs have been remarkably accurate on this passage, so we banked on being able to drive north in an upcoming calm. Sure enough, winds died as predicted; we fired up the engine and are heading slightly east of the rhumb line to Raivavae. Even with no wind for a while, the swells are still magnificent!

Soon we'll need to turn more northerly, but for now winds are still taking us ENE rather than NE. Still moving well though, it's quite a fun sleigh ride downwind on these large swells! We've started to see a few seabirds again, a different species this time. It sounded like they were speaking French.

So far we had been able to sail the direction we wanted, but the most recent wind change meant we are having to head off a bit. That's called a passage, though, and so far we're still making progress, so no complaints on this ship!

We're riding the periphery of a low and having a great run! It's a bit warmer as we work our way north, but there aren't nearly as many seabirds.

Sailing was slow overnight but picked up briskly in the morning. Conventional advice for this passage is to wait until reaching 155W before turning north, but gribs showed turning earlier could be advantageous

Yesterday afternoon's succession of strong squalls gave way to a mostly clear night with frequent gusts over 35k. The full moon on 4.5 m seas was a sight to behold! As the center of the high approached, winds calmed but seas are still large, so we're motorsailing for a while to keep from banging around so much. We're paying tribute to passing the halfway point (in terms of miles) by having a NZ breakfast and a FP dinner. (Not as exciting as it sounds

Continuing to enjoy the seabirds and large waves, and making good easterly progress. Position reports are from noon and this was our "base rate"; we spent the afternoon running downwind in front of frequent heavy squalls.

Winds were 25-30k overnight with gusts and squalls of winds 35-40k. We were glad we'd dropped to 3rd reef before dark so the feisty night wasn't problematic. We're also grateful that the wind is behind us, and we're making good progress. *This report may not have been filed properly on 17 May so I'm sending it again on 18 May (NZ date).

Winds were 25-30k overnight with gusts and squalls of winds 35-40k. We were glad we'd dropped to 3rd reef before dark so the feisty night wasn't problematic. We're also grateful that the wind is behind us, and we're making good progress.

We came a bit south to be ready for predicted westerlies, and are now on a downwind run with main on 2nd reef.

Motoring in virtually no wind and beautiful swells. An albatross has visited a few times today, along with other seabirds; marvelous! Art was a carpenter at sea, repairing a hinge that broke on our companionway door.

Squalls with 35-40k winds and heavy rain appeared overnight, but the old gals were primed for the event and came through in style (Second Wind down to just inner foresail, crew in foulies). Wind is backing, seas are getting rougher; it's a frisky ride but not a bad one.

The low pressure system arrived punctually at midnight, at which point we were very glad that 1)we are members of the Reef Early, Reef Deep Club, and 2)we weren't any closer to the center of the low. Right know we're just trying to keep Second Wind at the most advantageous angle to the waves. (And sadly

Still making good time, and trying to best position ourselves for the low pressure system soon to arrive. Ideally we'll end up near the top of it, not down in it! We were intrigued by a small land bird that found its way into our cockpit, at least 400 miles from home. When it flew away we were concerned it would perish, but a couple hours later it returned

The strategy was to sail ESE but since the wind backed, we're able to head east at best. But no complaints, we're moving nicely (and the fortune cookie said this heading may put us in a better position for the incoming low).

We've had breezes of 10-20k and mostly sunny skies; what a great start on our passage to Raivavae!

We anchored at Urquharts Bay last night so we could ride the rising current up the river to Whangarei this morning. It's great to be back at Riverside Drive Marina, our home away from home.

We are gradually making our way to Whangarei and are now anchored at Tutukaka. Unlike other recent anchorages, this one has good internet access: a blessing and a curse. I guess I'll have to get some work done rather than go hiking!

We had SW 35 two days ago, and NW 35 is forecast for tonight. In between gales we had a great time at Urupukapuka Island, with a great hike under sunny skies. We took the opportunity early this morning to scoot around Cape Brett and are now tucked into Whangamumu Harbour for the next few days.

We anchored briefly at Paihia for provisions and are now in Parorenui Bay. A Parade of Gales is forecast for the next several days, so we may shuttle between this anchorage

We left the protection and expense of the nice marina and headed out to Moturua Island. The small bay next to us is best situated for the strong incoming northerlies but it was full when we arrived, so we are hunkered down in Hahangarua Bay for the next few days.

We were tied to the Customs dock in Opua by 1000, almost but not quite 7 full days after we weighed anchor in Vanuatu. We enjoyed greeting people we've gotten to know in our several stops here, and are now looking forward to a good night's sleep! It was a fast trip but a wet one, so we'll spend a few days getting the boat and its contents dried & aired ouy, then head to anchorages in the Bay of Islands.

Wind and waves calmed considerably throughout the night. By morning we were sailing very slowly and slightly off course, but we aren't in a hurry and chose to simply enjoy a beautiful morning on the ocean. What a sweet sail! The engine went on after lunch, when the breeze dropped below 5k; we'll still make it to Opua by midday tomorrow. We've already been welcomed to NZ waters by 2 whales near the boat, and a green flash at sunset!

Morning had clouds and light rain, but by this noon report we had gray skies behind us and blue ahead. Surely we are going in the right direction!

And on the fifth day, we were resurrected: sky appeared and waves abated. We raised full sails, we are dry, and we are enjoying the ride!

So far this passage has been unappealing but efficient. Dousing waves, cloud cover and rain are balanced by being able to sail the rhumb line to NZ.

Much of last night saw winds in the 30's and rain. We eased off our course a bit to minimize bashing, and went from 2nd to 3rd reef at 0400. We went back to 2nd reef at midday, but will lower to 3rd again this evening since indications are we have another squally night ahead.

Conditions overnight were rowdy; we were relieved when the wind and waves backed a bit so the ride isn't quite as rough. Some excitement this morning: with a loud shattering sound followed by wild flogging of the foresail, the aft starboard winch broke! Looks like Art may get his wish for an electric winch this year after all...

Bound for Opua! We would have departed this morning regardless, since wind patterns for the overall passage looked favorable

We had a very good sail from Vila, and arrived at Aneityum just as the strong winds started to kick up. After a few last-minute chores like stowing the dinghy for a long-distance passage and pre-cooking some meals, we'll be ready for the Big Leap to NZ. Departure could be anywhere between a day and a week from now, depending on incoming weather.

We crammed a lot of tasks into a shortened time frame in Port Vila so we could take advantage of reasonable conditions to sail to Aneityum, >180 miles to windward. So far we've had excellent sailing!

On a mooring in Port Vila, getting ready for the passage to NZ. Depending on longer term forecasts, we're hoping to sail to Aneityum in a couple of days, then head to NZ from there.

Anchored in Mele Bay, gathering energy after our overnight sail from Epi. We'll move to a mooring in Port Vila harbor early tomorrow morning to start prepping for the upcoming passage back to NZ.

We'd planned to stay in Vanuatu for 6 weeks, but the early start to the cyclone season caused us to decide to depart earlier. We are now working our way back to Port Vila, with a pleasant stop at Lamen Bay on Epi Island.

(Our SSB was temporarily out of commission so this report is 2 days old.) When the wind and rain finally eased, we moved 5 miles north to Munvet Point. Aside from an uncomfortable WSW swell, the anchorage was wonderful: interesting beaches & caves, and outstanding snorkeling.

We had an excellent downwind sail overnight to Metenovor Bay on the southwest side of Malekula Island (also known, appropriately, as Southwest Bay). It's a large bay with many villages, and we are the only cruising boat anchored here. We plan to spend the next several days visiting places ashore while waiting out this spell of rainy wind/windy rain.

Conditions are stronger outside the harbor (winds 18-20k and seas 1.5m) but Sema Bay, inside Havannah Harbor, is calm

Anchored at Hideaway, just an hour outside of Port Vila. We'll watch the beach restaurant's Friday night fire show (from the boat; the dinghy is stowed for travel), then move around to Havannah Harbor tomorrow.

We arrived in Port Vila on Saturday but neglected to post anything

After a marvelous stay at Port Resolution, we had a spirited downwind run to Dillon Bay on Erromango Island. Open water conditions are feisty but the anchorage is relatively calm.

Made landfall at Port Resolution on Tanna at 1430 local time. It was an outstanding passage and we look forward to a few days of activities here, including a hike and a trip to the active volcano.

A perfect sailing day! We're glad Camden is getting a day of passage-making at its best. Okay, so no fish on the line yet...but everything else is ideal.

We had several hours of winds over 20k and seas up to 3m, so Camden's first night on an ocean passage was pretty boisterous! He's doing great and we're all enjoying the voyage.

An invigorating start to our passage to Vanuatu with Camden!

Moved back to Denarau, where we'll spend the next few days preparing for our son's arrival. We're excited about his visit, and about him coming with us on our passage to Vanuatu in about a week!

Playing hide and seek with the wind! Had a great sail back to the mainland, where we're riding out the northerlies at the north end of Nadi Bay. Tomorrow we'll move around to Saweni Bay, hopefully before the strong southerlies arrive.

We were headed for Manta Ray Pass but the predicted easterlies were bending south into that anchorage, so we diverted to Cuvu Bay on the south end of Naviti Island. We'll do some projects here for a couple of days, and with a bit of luck we might still be able to dinghy over to the pass for a swim.

With calmer conditions the Musket Cove anchorage felt better, and the shore facilities were attractive. However, with some strong winds predicted in a couple of days, we decided to move on. The Navadra anchorage is deep and rolly, but has gorgeous beaches and sunset views; a good stop!

It took us 3 seasons in Fiji to finally make it to Musket Cove! We're not sure why this place is so popular; the anchorage is windy, deep, close to reefs, and very crowded. We'll check out a bit of the shore scene tomorrow, but plan to move on soon.

Robinson Crusoe Island did indeed have a marvelous Dance & Fire Show! Now we're anchored in Saweni Bay, our home base for the next several days: we'll pick up the replacement stanchions shipped from the USA to Fiji, then put the boat back to pre-ferry collision condition. En route we stopped at Denarau and had a lovely evening with Gordon of S/V Ms Murphy and his friend Sue. It was fun to connect person to person, rather than boat to boat as we did on that fateful night in Suva!

Had a wonderful sail to Likuri Island, a.k.a. Robinson Crusoe Island. Many people have told us they have the best fire show anywhere, so we'll celebrate our 44th anniversary tomorrow night in flames!

Finally escaped Suva City! Happily anchored at Yanuca in Beqa Lagoon; we're the only ones here and hope it will warm up enough for a swim tomorrow.

We would love to have stayed at Namara indefinitely, but unfortunately business drew us back to Suva. We'll be here at least a week, for dentist visit(s) and trying (still) to get reimbursed for the ferry collision damage.

No overnight sail this time; just 3 nm to Namara. A beautiful sandy beach and snorkeling right off the boat beckon

We arrived at Draveuni in the Astrolabe Reef after another overnight sail, hoping to snorkel for a few days here. Some forecasts say it will be too windy for comfortable swimming, others say it will be okay. We're voting for okay.

An overnight sail brought us to Herald Bay on Gau. Sevusevu in the village of Saiweke was interesting; the elderly chief was listening to BBC news on his radio (no internet here) when we arrived. He is astute and up to date with current world events

Anchored in Paradise

We came to the south end of Rabi Island to look for manta rays. Didn't find mantas, but did find a lovely anchorage: Katherine Bay is safe, secluded, and very pretty.

Had a delightful sail to Albert Cove on Rabi Island. There are 7 other boats here; the first time in 4 weeks we haven't been by ourselves in an anchorage. Back to civilization? (Probably not; one of the boats is Midnight Sun...)

An overnight passage brought us to Qelelevu Lagoon, well off the beaten path. An exposed and rolly anchorage, but stunningly beautiful!

Anchored back at Vatudamu Point; had a nice dinghy trip up the Wainikoro River this afternoon. The next couple of days are likely to be rainy so we'll stay put. When that system passes, we plan to head east.

Given the stable weather pattern, we decided it was safe to anchor overnight out at the Great Sea Reef. Afternoon winds created waves too choppy for swimming, but morning snorkeling was fantastic!

Labasa was rowdy and fun! Now we're anchored at Vatudamu Point, very near a pass in the Great Sea Reef. If predictions hold, it will be calm enough to snorkel out there in the next couple of days.

Took advantage of calmer conditions and traveled upwind to Malau. It's basically just an open roadstead, but is the closest anchorage to Labasa. We look forward to taking a bus into town in the next few days, for both sights and fresh produce.

Anchored at Kia, outermost island in the Great Sea Reef. It's still a bit windy to be away from the protection of Vanua Levu, but prediction is for slightly calmer weather for a couple days so we figured it was now or never. The bottom is not ideal, sand and rock, but the scenery is gorgeous and the village of Daku extremely friendly.

Anchored at Kia, outermost island in the Great Sea Reef. It's still a bit windy to be away from the protection of Vanua Levu, but prediction is for slightly calmer weather for a couple days so we figured it was now or never. The bottom is not ideal, sand and rock, but the scenery is gorgeous and the village of Daku extremely friendly.

We had 20-30k winds for a couple of days, with a brief respite today before even stronger winds arrive over the weekend. We took the opportunity for a change of scenery and moved 5 miles up the coast to Nukubati. Gave our sevusevu in the village of Naqumu and played some music for them; a nice outing, since it's likely we'll be "boat-bound" for a while!

The enhanced winds predicted for the next several days looked a bit less strong to the east of us, so we moved a ways up the coast to Vunisinu Bay. It's a smaller version of Bua Bay (though still fairly large): surrounded by mangroves, shallow with a mud bottom, no villages.

Anchored in Naurore Bay, near the village of Naviqiri. We gave our sevusevu at the village this afternoon and are looking forward to a very placid night. Tomorrow we'll walk to the school, about 30 minutes away, to play some music for them.

We have reached the north coast of Vanua Levu, one of our primary destinations this season. It's fun to explore new places, especially ones off the beaten path! Koroinasolo Inlet is pretty but a chute for today's winds; fortunately it's shallow with a mud bottom, good holding. The next safe anchorage was too far to reach in good light today, so we'll move on tomorrow morning.

Anchored in large Bua Bay, expecting a windy night so we're glad we're in shallow water on a mud bottom. We plan to start heading around the north coast of Vanua Levu tomorrow morning.

Our stay in Savusavu was short and sweet; it's very easy to get errands done there. We didn't get to snorkel at Namena Reef when we passed through a few days ago and conditions were ideal today, so we made a return visit. Namena hasn't recovered from Cyclone Winston

We needed to stop in Savusavu for internet access, so we can follow up on ordering replacement parts. Close inspection of the rudder has revealed no damage, so we are hopeful that all we need to replace are the stanchions (w/their sockets), a furling lead block (already replaced), and some paint on the keel. As collisions go, that sure was a lucky one! It will be nice to spend a couple of days in Savusavu catching up with friends.

Namena Reef wasn't in the plans, but it was on the way so we decided to stop and check it out. Art caught a 4' wahoo this morning, so we'll feast for a while and have plenty to share with friends in Savusavu!

Our repairs from Princess Civa's collision could not be done in Suva and weather permitted an exit to the east, so we departed; sure were glad to leave Suva Harbor! We enjoyed a brief stop at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Levuka (Ovalau I.), and are now anchored at the north end of Makogai I.

We were one of the 5 vessels impacted

Anchored outside the Royal Suva Yacht Club at 0930; they facilitate all customs clearance formalities. Will go into town tomorrow to pick up the Fiji cruising permit & pay fees, and will move on to other islands as soon as weather permits.

A large squall in the night brought plenty of rain and wind; other than that, we've had constant motoring. Hoped-for breezes this afternoon did not materialize, but we're surrounded by beautiful blue and expect to arrive in Suva tomorrow morning, so all's well.

After driving all night, we were able to set sail in a light breeze this morning and are revelling in it! The band Great Big Sea's lyrics: "I've sailed the world over

Departed for Fiji this morning. This is the first time we've ever chosen to start a passage with no wind, but we've been in Minerva 1 1/2 weeks and there was no forecast for good sailing winds in sight, so we fired up the engines are are driving. Thank goodness for the new autopilot Art installed in Opua!

We were hoping to depart for Fiji today, but departed for the other side of the reef instead. 9 boats are tucked up on the ENE edge of the lagoon in preparation for this weekend's winds; we'll head out when this system passes.

Anchored in North Minerva Reef with 5 other boats. Wind & waves will increase, but we'd rather ride them out here than battle the nasties at sea between here and Fiji. Plus friends Dave & Wendy from Elysium just pulled in nearby; the Minerva Reef Yacht Club will be in full swing.

We are very close to North Minerva and expect to drop anchor in the early afternoon. It's been a great run from Opua! The reef anchorage will be a bit rough for a few days, but it will be nice to be off watch.

Had a boisterous overnight sail, clear sky and no squalls. Wind died for a bit in the morning so we motorsailed, and now are downwind with the full main up. A swell forecast indicated waves over 4M at South Minerva this weekend, so we will bypass that option and hope to reach North Minerva in good light tomorrow.

Reduced sail last evening in time to skirmish with an occasional nighttime squall. The edge of the large low pressure system crossing NZ is starting to catch up to us, so we are keeping 2nd reef + inner foresail, expecting winds & seas to build.

Another excellent passage day! One squall last night, but conditions today have been ideal.

Departed yesterday from Opua, bound for Minerva Reef. Best first-day wind and sea conditions we've ever had for a passage! We're pinching now so when the strong NW winds arrive, we'll have room to ease off. Position reports are from the noon sight.

Enjoying some of our favorite Bay of Islands anchorages while waiting for a weather window to sail north.

Anchored outside Bay of Islands Marina at Opua for final departure preparations.

We've been in various anchorages within Port Fitzroy, enjoying some nice walks for a few days then hunkering down during the NE gale. Hoping to head back across Hauraki Gulf tomorrow and arrive in Opua on Wednesday.

After lengthy diversions

Back at Riverside Drive Marina in Whangarei, our home away from home. Thanks to the Coast Guard folks for their assistance into Marsden 2 days ago, to Dave Berg for recommending that we become NZ Coast Guard members, and to Art for being able to repair transmissions!

Made an overnight run from Opua to Whangarei, but Hatea River Bridge closings and a transmission issue caused us to stop at Marsden Cove.

Moved to the Bay of Islands Marina so we could get some shore chores done. Post-passage fatigue when writing the last post made me neglect to mention that overall our passage from New Cal was very good, and we are happy to be back in NZ!

Cleared Customs in Opua and are now anchored across from the Bay of Islands Marina. We'll stay in this area for a few days to rest and renew acquaintances, then make our way down the coast to Whangarei.

An uneventful day; with conditions improving, we are making steady progress toward Opua and expect to make landfall tomorrow. It's been gray for 5 days

This morning's adventures included a large wave tossing a cascade down the companionway at the precise moment I had the hatch open to tether myself in; jury-rigging a fix for a broken reefing line; and finding clever solutions for the malfunctioning head. Just another day at sea! A good one, actually: making our two short-term goals of not arriving below 32S before the strongest part of the front passes ahead of us, and keeping the boat from bashing too much. We set sail yesterday afternoon, once the winds turned more northerly, and are making reasonable progress along the rhumb line to Opua.

We made great progress overnight but it looked like we were going to get within a couple degrees of NZ at the same time that area was getting the worst of the front, so we decided to heave to. Second Wind is glad to no longer be a submarine, and her crew is catching up on needed rest.

We're part of the New Cal group that's "parked" along the edge of the squash zone, hoping to avoid getting into the worst of the winds and squalls ahead. Wallowing in large seas has its moments; too bad we didn't get a video of Art chasing a hard boiled egg around the salon floor! (At least it was hard boiled.) Definitely looking forward to this system passing so we can get moving again.

We're part of the New Cal group that's "parked" along the edge of the squash zone, hoping to avoid getting into the worst of the winds and squalls ahead. Wallowing in large seas has its moments; too bad we didn't get a video of Art chasing a hard boiled egg around the salon floor! (At least it was hard boiled.) Definitely looking forward to this system passing so we can get moving again.

Motorsailing overnight brought us to the winds we wanted and we had a great morning run

Southeast wind and waves increased and this morning's gribs showed more favorable winds to the east, so we tacked. A bit of a diversion for now, but we're hoping to resume our course before too long. We've passed through different microsystems, with varying wind speeds and cloud cover, relatively close to each other.

We encountered the light NE at 24 50S and fired up the engine a short while later. Still making good headway and all is well on board. (1600 status update: since the noon report, skies have cleared a great deal, we have light southeasterlies and are sailing at 4k on a course of 170T.)

Bound for New Zealand! Having the best start to any passage ever: light upwind with sunny skies and no large waves to bash into. Who wouldn't want to cross oceans like this?

Had a lovely sail to the Isle of Pines! We're sharing the Kuto Bay anchorage with 12 other sailboats and one of the biggest cruise ships we've ever seen. Planning to enjoy the island while we're waiting for a weather window to depart for NZ.

Anchored at Baie Ire on Ile Ouen, en route to Ile des Pins.

Enjoyed a river walk in the upper reaches of Prony Bay yesterday before heading back to Noumea today. We were lucky to find a spot to anchor at Port Moselle; apparently two rallies are gathering here at the same time, so it's very crowded.

We stayed within Bay of Prony but moved to Ilot Casy in order to rendezvous with Paul & Chris of S/V Georgia. Had great hikes through dense scrub vegetation yesterday and a pine forest today.

A 24-hour passage brought us back to Grande Terre, where we are at a mooring at Anse Majic in Prony Bay. Tomorrow we plan to hike to the lighthouse for a panoramic view of the South Lagoon.

After some delightful snorkeling along the cliffs at Jokin, we sailed to the west side of Lifou Island and are now anchored near Drueulu.

We beat our way from Ouvea to Lifou all day today; we're now anchored near the cliffs in Jokin Bay.