Wishing those still on passage good conditions and a safe arrival in NZ.

Nestled in at the Lake House in Canada, been up the mountain a couple of times played in the snow, warm fire every night, big stores and all the first world benefits and drawbacks. As cruisers we are used to compromise so we will just have to persevere and enjoy the visit home. Fish are still rising on the lake, grouse, moose and deer behind the house, can't beat that.

All good here in Marsden, sea mode cleared away, and back in coastal mode, all gear desalted and cleaned up, rested and fed. Feels good to be back in the first world in many ways but crowded and busy and all that comes with that but bad to be gone fromTonga and the tropics and Pacific Island life and our friends. We will just have to endure for now, speaking of now! Now, where did we put that tequila again?

Currently rounding Bream Head, ETA Marsden Cove Marina, two hours. Nice sunrise and good viz, which is a relief. Much cooler than Tonga but Summer is on the way. Long pants, 'socks'! and fleece jackets for now! Made it in just in time....big winds forecast for later today and this evening as another front passes over NZ. Quite a different pace coming into a busy area, with lots of obstacles, nav lights and boat traffic to watch for. Just switched the AIS from Offshore to Coastal Mode, next digging out the fenders and lines for pulling up to the Customs Dock. Yellow Q Flag is raised. Next, dig out all of the foods that the Quarantine Officer will take, along with any garbage. With the exception of a long sleep, all is good on board.

Light air sailing then, motor sailing now,looks like we may be able to beat into SE the rest of the way but still making for a position to take advantage of the stronger SE forecasted, the SW still never materialized as forecast on gribs. Spotted lights from one yacht on a 180 true, 2 miles to port, no AIS ident, name. Arpox 260 to run to whagarei. All Good on Board.

Light air sailing then at 130 am lost the wind, motor sailing now, making for a position to take advantage of the SE in two days by staying west with any luck it will work out but the weather is ever changing. Gwen baked two loaves of focasia bread today and pulling off more galley miracles, we are eating well. All good on Board.

underway NZ, good night sail after struggling all day to eke out some miles, light winds but in the groove nicely and really moving considering nothing over 9.5 kts wind on the nose. Nice sea conditions finally but all that is about to change next 24 hours so we will leave the reef in the main for now and see how we go. Decision time as to remain east or move west to make the final approach to Whangarei as the front is due tomorrow early right on our course and it might mean more seriouis head winds so we need to pick an angle of attack which will provide the least bashing and best speeds to get off the sea. Definitely cooler at night now, still shorts and t shirt but waiting for the sun now. probably looking at pants tomorrow night, argghhh. Very dark all night, cloudy so it was black as!

Light air sailing milking the fluky winds, three different sea conditions and light air = a very sloppy night watch. Lots of food to eat yet before arrival, may have to heave too for a week,relax and pig out,,or not. All good on Board.

light copy

Light air sailing milking the fluky winds, three different sea conditions and light air = a very sloppy night watch. Lots of food to eat yet before arrival, may have to heave too for a week,relax and pig out,,or not. All good on Board.

Light air sailing since the dark wee hours this am, every light air sail and trick being employed as things change. Passed up the stop at Minerva in favor of pushing thru to find some SE winds and get the passage over with , now on rhomb line to Whangarei albiet hard on the wind heeled over and pushing hard. All good on Board.

Light air sailing and Motor sailing in light winds on the nose with a 0.5 M S swell Considering stop in minerva but will look at next weather file and listen to David before deciding, about 45 to run to North Minerva where we might wait out a day or so for favorable winds right down to Whangarei. All good on Board.

Departed Paingaimotu, 630 last night after a tough but quick goodbye session with our friends and adopted family. Really cool send off with horns and waves and radio calls by the 20 yachts there when we sailed off into the sunset, thanks for that folks! And yes the anchor did come up. Motor sailing moderately so far in very light winds with a 1.5 M SE swell and a wind ripple on top of that.

Wind SSE 6-8 goofy sea but slight. bar 1017, sky ,,dark. Underway NZ. Departed 630 pm from Big Mama's hapeart felt goodbyes but had to do it. Motorsailing the rhumb line a bit bouncy but that should settle down once away from land. The odd pound, all tough to get used too after so long at anchor. Ok updates underway later. Ned to hit send before internet escapes. AGOB.

SSE 10-15, 50%cloud cover bar 1015 up 2. Cooler and RH down to 85 ! Now 20 yachts here. Organized a big cruisers BBQ two nights ago, great fun event and party for all. Then last night we had a huge turkey cooked in the Umu and full turkey dinner with the family and staff of Big Mama's in honour of Gwens B Day. Gwen made the stuffing and a carrot cake c/w cream cheese frosting,,mmmmm goood. Turkey dinner in the tropics! Cool things just keep happening out here this season. Lots of chit chat about departures over the next several days, Big Mama YC birthday celebration is on Friday, should be another cool event. Going to be tough to raise anchor for the passage this time, love it here.

Se 10-15 calm overnight bar 1015 up 2 50% cloud cover. 20 yachts here now, had a big BBQ 2 nights back, awesome event, then we had a huge turkey dinner last night with all the family and staff of Big Mama's , baked in the Umu of course all in honour of Gwens B Day turkey dinner in the tropics, another first, Gwen made the stuffing and baked a carrot cake c/w cream cheese frosting, mmm good. Cool things continue to happen this season, going to be tough to raise anchor for the passage. Lots of talk of departures over the next several days. Big Mama year end birthday party on Friday, should be a hoot.

Wind NW 20 sunny and 1011. Exposed wind direction here and high tide approaching quite a ride here at anchor 13 yachts here now, one appears to have sustained damage on route here.

Wind SE 16, showers bar 1015 still muggy 12 yachts here now. Yes we did have a private visit with the The King of Tonga, His Royal Majesty King Tupou VI, yesterday on Pangaimotu, hard to believe Gwen was requested to bake for his afternoon tea, who does that? Wow we have been so fortunate.

Wind SE 15 100% cloud bar 1019. Leading edge of the high apparent. At least four we know of departing today, two gone already. We will wait to see how the head winds for the last half of the passage look later today then decide if we will stay or jog down to Minerva and catch the next high. Massive Cruise ship just docking now at the wharf. Always something going on out here.

Anchored Paingaimotu, Tonga, Back from the provisioning trip to town and the oh so cool market but it is hot as hell in there with little breeze and sunny sky. 30C and 70% humidity in the shaded cabin now at 2 pm. 13 yachts in the departure que today looking at Monday and there abouts for Minerva and direct to NZ depending on who you talk to. Going to miss the tropics and hoping over the side for a swim because it is so hot and humid you have to cool off and mould grows before your eyes when it is like this but still pretty nice to be able to stare at tropical islands and swaying palms and sun and sand and beautiful blue water. All good and enjoyable The people have all been very nice and tonite I have organized the BBQ for all the cruisers in the anchorage as a sort of farewell party. Bring your bbq preference and Mama supplies the salads and fixings and plating and barbecuing and clean up and all that for $20 TOP a head plus a happy hour. Pretty good deal. Sean and Sebina,from Chevaldy will be performing again which will be another treat and Mama is trying to get Bo over from the mainland, a very colourful local performer and character, so it should be a wonderful send off. Now to figure out how to put the sleep in the bank that we will need for the passage? Ah the challenges of social activity in the cruising world.

Anchored Paingaimotu, Tonga, Back from the provisioning trip to town and the oh so cool market but it is hot as hell in there with little breeze and sunny sky. 30C and 70% humidity in the shaded cabin now at 2 pm. 13 yachts in the departure que today looking at Monday and there abouts for Minerva and direct to NZ depending on who you talk to. Going to miss the tropics and hoping over the side for a swim because it is so hot and humid you have to cool off and mould grows before your eyes when it is like this but still pretty nice to be able to stare at tropical islands and swaying palms and sun and sand and beautiful blue water. All good and enjoyable The people have all been very nice and tonite I have organized the BBQ for all the cruisers in the anchorage as a sort of farewell party. Bring your bbq preference and Mama supplies the salads and fixings and plating and barbecuing and clean up and all that for $20 TOP a head plus a happy hour. Pretty good deal. Sean and Sebina,from Chevaldy will be performing again which will be another treat and Mama is trying to get Bo over from the mainland, a very colourful local performer and character, so it should be a wonderful send off. Now to figure out how to put the sleep in the bank that we will need for the passage? Ah the challenges of social activity in the cruising world.

SE4-6 clear sky bar 1015 up 3 overnight. Obvious scramble going on around th anchorage as folks prepare various things and complete checks and routines they have established prior to going to sea. Not hard to tell departures are imminent around here. 11 yachts in Tongatapu now. Many now looking at Monday with some stopping at Minerva and some not, depends what unfolds with weather along the route and who needs a break. We are looking at a non stop but that too can change. Organizing another big BBQ at Pangaimotu tonite as the last tropical beach activity before NZ and colder climes. Will post along the way as time permits.

SW 5 calm overnight clear sky bar 1015. Probably depart Sun for NZ on this next high.

Off to get fuel this am. Treated the family and staff of Big Mamas to a huge BBQ feast last night for being so good to us during our stay here. Wonderful time had by all. Same count of dogs before and after dinner, a good sign.

Wind NE 20 higher gusts, rain heavy at times overnight 100% cloud, menacing looking east thru north west. More rain on the way no doubt. Bar 1010. 11 yachts at anchor all facing NE. Feels like the worst of it may be yet to come although brighter sky to the West and South   

Wind gone NW here 5 kts, 30% cloud bar 1016 up 2. All set for the am start. 10 yachts here now more on the way from North. 

SE 6, band of thickening cloud to the E NE, 1017 steady, hot and sticky. Wonderful outing last night to a somewhat affluent family's reunion with cultural dancers from Tonga, Niue, Samoa and Fiji all performing for the family and one birthday girl. Spectacular, It just keeps getting better. We do not like the looks of Monday Tuesday's visit from that nasty little depression and what it will bring,, and no point departing before that either, could reach 40 kts here according to GRIBs ,,,but as with everything out here that too can change.

getting to be quite a gathering of yachts at Big mamas. Would that be a gaggle? Maybe a fleet. All waiting to depart for Minerva and south

Wind SE 5, 20% cloud, bar 1018 up 2, 25 in the cabin and 77% RH. 10 boats here now, one departing today for Minerva. More on the way down from Hapaai and Vavau, no fuel up there for yachts right now. Still absorbing the Queens visit. Off to town today to the market, great fresh market here, sort of spoils you a little.

Wow, yesterday we took Her Royal Majesty, the Queen Mother, former Queen of the Kingdom of Tonga and her entourage for a day sail. What a privilege bestowed upon us to be able to spend time with a true Monarch aboard our yacht. The entourage went fwd and left us alone with HRM in the cockpit to visit privately and get to know her. She is truly a Regal and Royal Lady!


There is lots to tell but that will have to go into the blog. 8 yachts here now, many looking at the next high for the passage to NZ, we will probably hang a while longer.

Still in Pangaimotu and languishing in the heat and humidity which we will have to enjoy while we can. Drip,drip drip, We will be spending time in winter soon enough. Over the side for a dip in a few minutes to cool off,,again. The Queen Mother is here for a few days ,,camping,,,at Pangaimotu to escape the heat in town no doubt. We will visit with her as special guests of Ana and Earl which will be quite a privilege.

For cruisers we have learned Marsden Cove, Town Basin and Bridge Control have changed channels to VHF 18 from the previous 64 and Coast Guard has moved to 05, please spread the word. Looking now for a passage window that will offer fast sailing down to NZ over the next couple of weeks.

Still here in Pangaimotu. Very hot and sticky. Need to enjoy it while we can as we will be enduring the cold soon enough so it's over the side for us to cool off. The Queen Mother is here for a couple of days,,,camping,,, at Pangaimotu so we will visit with her as guests of Ana and Earl, what a privilege. For cruisers, we have learned that Marsden Cove, Town Basin and Bridge control have changed to VHF ch 18 and Coast Guard to 05. Please spread the word.

Looking for a weather window to NZ that will allow a fast passage over the next couple of weeks.

Wind W 6, Bar 1011 And FOG ? In the tropics,,,who knew. Sky appears to be clear but can not tell. Oh that's why everything is soaked inside and out. 98% humidity and 27C in the cabin this morning. Another yachtie said their sheets were like sleeping in wet lettuce,,,warm wet lettuce,,,yuck. Thankfully our boat ventilates well and we can flip on the A/C which changes everything. 8 yachts here now.  That will probably grow pretty steady now. We will look for a window over the next couple of weeks or so. Cool, rain or snow and a fireplace don't sound too bad right now. Better be careful what we wish for, way out here.

with about 4 other boats waiting at pangaimotu.. hope the anchor comes up when the time comes.

Wind NW 8, 70% cloud, Bar1011, hot and sticky up here. One super yacht has come and gone c/w chopper which you do not usually see in Tonga. No petrol and rationed diesel in Vavau putting a real strain on locals and yachties and all things motorized. The King of Tonga was here at Pangaimotu the other day for a swim and hooka practice then a long chat with Earl on the beach in the shade, the two grew up together so have a little history. We are preparing a formal invite to their Magisties King and Queen of Tonga to visit us in Canada for a Western Rural cowboy country visit with time in the bush with the critters etc which Earl will present for us. We understand such a trip is on the Royal Bucket list. Whew what a guest group that would be.

Wind NW 8, 70% cloud Bar 1011, hot and very sticky.

One super yacht with c/w chopper has come and gone, not usual Tonga visitors the super yachts. No petrol at all and rationed fuel up in Vavau putting a strain on locals as well as yachts and all things motorized. The King of Tonga was here at Pangaimotu swimming and using a hooka and hanging out with Earl who grew up with him. We are working on the invitation for Their Majesties the King and Queen of Tonga to visit us in Canada which Earl will present for us. A western rural setting and some time in real cowboy country are reportedly on the Royal bucket list. What a guest group that would be.

Anchored Pangaimotu, wind WSW 5, 60% cloud, bar 1019 up one.

Five yachts here at the moment, all planning for NZ at some point. All good here in the warm, actually in the Hot.

Light winds and mostly sunny. Warmer past couple of days. Time to break out the shade gear. Looks like back to NZ for radar fix, not going to happen out here. Oh well a stop at Minerva might be in order.

Bar 1019, wind SE 8, 100% cloud very humid, got the glaze going pretty steady, several days of cloud and showers forecast looks like uv index zero. Caught a nice snapper and brought in to Big Mamas and they loved it. Said it had cucumber in its stomach when they cleaned it, vegitarian snapper, who knew? Where did that snapper get that cucumber?

Bar 1021 90% cloud wind light SE. Calm overnight, back on the radar quest we go.

Still in Tongatapu, learning to relax a little, and, A little more. Really nice day yesterday all chores caught up, perhaps shipping solution for radar will unfold this week. All quotes in the thousands so far. Not really keen on that. Oh, long weekend in the Americas, guess it is another day to wait, oh look, is that a palm tree, on a desert Island? All good on Board!

Anchored Pangaimotu, leading edge of the high definately arrived.

Wind SE 4, calm, 60% cloud, bar 1018, shift overnight from light NE to light SE very heavy dew and RH 92%. 9 yachts at Pangaimotu

Anchored Pangaimotu, Tonga, Some radar progress made and hopefully a solution this week, then wait this next weather system out and see if we can make some miles. It has been mostly cloudy for some time and not much sun coming. Nice spot to be sitting around.

Anchored Paingaimotu, Tonga, Somr radar progress made and hopefully a solution this week, then wait this next weather system out and see if we can make some miles. It has been mostly cloudy for some time and not much sun coming. Nice spot to be sitting around.

Tested YIT App not sure it is working, wind SE 10. 70%cloud cover bar 1021 23C RH 65 not bad.

Photo of last night's cloud formation, very cool.

Wind SE 10 -15, clear skies, couple small cumiies above us with a thick layer surrounding us around the horizon which is the blob moving off we hope. Bar 1021, up 2 overnight.

Wow brightness in the sky after a week of rain at times really heavy. Boat is as clean as it could get and water tanks overflowing. Looks like some clear weather but windy next several days. Forgot to mention a couple humpbacks meandered very slowly through the anchorage and right close to shore while we watched from shore at Big Mamas. Said to be a cow and bull looking for a place to deliver the new calf. They need shallow and warm clear water with sand bottom and this is it. Hope to have another visit with the new one prsent. Many maintenance items completed, radar still unresolved but working with a techy in NZ later today to try and diagnose it for sure before we decide how to proceed. All good in paradise.

Still at Pangaimotu, radar issue still not quite resolved so we will work on that but weather not quite suitable for the next leg at present so we will wait on that while we work on the radar and get it all sorted. More later

Will rest in Tongatapu for a few days before the next burst homeward.

Anchored Nukualofa after long upwind slog, but flat safe sleep tonight. AGOB! Many posts on route did not get through, will correct after 16 hours snoring.

What an Idiot! 20 27 S - 175 39 W. That's not Tonga! The more I looked and thought about it, the more I realized, you can't see Tonga from 30 miles away can you? The highest point of land is about 100 feet to the top of a palm. 100 feet over 30 miles, probably not. Calm Down Russ, it will be visible shortly. Wind now East 15-20.

Land HO!I can see Tonga, 21 27 S - 175 44 W. Sighed land just at daybreak under the clouds! Wind now dropped to south of east, pinching up hill in building breeze. Hope we get a land shadow for the seas.

Underway Tonga, 21 42 S - 175 53 W. SE wind came up to 20's and very squally most of the day, reefed down and made some progress, but wind has gone NE now right from Tonga. about 16 hours to go present conditions need to get thru the pass b about 3 or 4 latest. What an odd passage weather wise. Guess we have to take good with the bad out here.

Underway Tonga, 22 49 S - 176 48 W. After a very light night, the SE has arrived 12-20 moving well now. Should be in tomorrow. A little more to this windy stuff, actually have to pay attention. Passing by where we have caught big Mahi in an area of sea mounts so we are hoping for a Mahi or Tuna.

Underway Tonga, 23 34 S - 178 28 W. Wind sill light now finally SE quadrant, subtle reaching, tickling her along at times ghosting and only the surfs down swell, which is also in our favor finally, keep us moving along. Actually beginning to enjoy this super light stuff now, flat sailing, quiet and no stress, bright half moon to light the way and nice and warm. Time for some popcorn, and just watch the show. Pretty nice all round. Gwen has pulled a few magic tricks out of the galley and we are fat and happy out here. Meat line will go back out before dawn, no luck yet. Yesterday there was some large areas of convective activity ,,,,SQUALLS,,to the East but we seemed to skirt it all day., No free boat wash but it aint over yet.

Underway Tonga, 24 18 S - 178 01 W. Wind sill light and from behind, jibing down wind, very slowly. Meat line is out and we are hoping for tuna! Main radar display at nav stn went dark and it operates the pilot house unit so we are running blind at night to Tonga, need to find a fix on that one. Dont think percussive maintenance is an option here.

progress a bit slow for them but very pleasant sailing.

Underway Tonga, 25 16 S - 178 43 W. Wind gone light and from behind, jibing down wind, very slowly. I guess relaxed sailing is not so bad once you accept the pace. We are used to moving much faster but have relaxed now and are taking it easy. Code Zero or spinnaker tomorrow! Or maybe drag a meat line and sun tan. Saw first life since departing today, fishing vessel crossed 1/2 mile off bow, he did answer the call and changed course, close enough for us. Nice and warm on the night watch. AGOB!

Underway Tonga, 24 57 S - 178 23 W. Wind gone light and from behind, jibing down wind, very slowly.

Underway Tonga, 25 16 S - 178 43 W. Wind gone light and from behind, jibing down wind, very slowly. I guess relaxed sailing is not so bad once you accept the pace. We are used to moving much faster but have relaxed now and are taking it easy. Code Zero or spinnaker tomorrow! Or maybe drag a meat line and sun tan. Saw first life since departing today, fishing vessel crossed 1/2 mile off bow, he did answer the call and changed course, close enough for us. Nice and warm on the night watch. AGOB!

Underway Tonga, 25648 S - 179 37 W. Wind gone light and from behind, jibing down wind, very slowly. Need to save fuel for last leg and arrival. Looks like a slow couple of days coming up. AGOB!

all is well

Underway Tonga, 26 30 S - 179 55 W. It was a light wind night with a crappy wind/swell combination. This morning shows squalls all around. AGOB!

Underway Tonga, 27 38 S - 179 36 E. NW filled in really well like David said it would, steady 18 for hours now switching SW. Made some good tracks, 11.4 top speed on surfs, nite watch coming up. Large area of dark menacing stuff to the East, trying to keep west of it and head North, does not look inviting so we will give it a miss if we can. Pretty good going for now. AGOB!

all well

Underway Tonga, 28 52 S - 178 48 E Motor sailing in light winds,less squally now. sunrise this local, 640 am. Pushing a little to reach Tonga but might just shut engine down and sail a bit if we see steady 10+kts, it will be slower but quieter. Batteries and all electronic devises definitely fully charged. AGOB!

Underway Tonga, 30 20 S - 177 45 E Motor sailing in light winds, still a little sloppy but less crash bang repeat, definitely getting warmer, last squall had 24 kts WSW. Going to pay, yes PAY a visit to Total fuels in Tonga for a duty free top off after this leg. Motored nearly all the way so far, could have bobbed and got tossed around sailing and relaxed for a few bucks less but not our style to hang out mid ocean and see what happens. Pitter Patter, Big Mamas awaits. Radar is acting up and that is a bother but open waters out here. AGOB!

Underway Tonga wind never came W of N NE until just now, 1700 UTC ,been on the nose since departing, squally and sloppy cond with a good light show. Sea 2M but from all over the map, every once in a while a pot hole appears out front and we drop into it with a crash, can' see 'em coming, felt the fillings in my teeth rattle. I suppose it is better than gong to work.

Underway NZ to Tonga, Headwinds from every point of sail and a dirty sloppy sea with 5-7 kts all over the map, motorsailing, headed for 30S and organized conditions,,we hope. No wind and crap seas make progress a grind but we are covering ground.

Underway NZ to Tonga, departed noon today, Aug 8 with Carmina, Spirare and Tiger,,,guess who pulled away,,not us.. Tiger did a horizon job on us all. All good, lost a reef line out of the boom so will have to re reeve that in the daylight, who tied that knot? otherwise fine, Gwen asleep. Heard maritime radio call up a gale warning for Cape Brett, better push a bit harder to get N and E, need some northing to get under the headwinds in the am from that pesky little low off Cape Rianga. Should be light to moderate winds after that.

Today is the day! 4 yachts departing Marsden Cove today, should be the last of the flock, GHR will be glad to see the back of us,,,for now!

Still in Whangarei, still looking for a suitable window, may have to look a little harder, visas are getting close to expiring. Steve and Linda Dashew were over for a visit a week ago, in town to shake down their latest creation, the 78 foot FPB. hull #1. At least two more on order along with a host of other lengths in the que. about two years wait if you order now but WOW, ! Surfing at 22 knots on a power boat. On purpose! In control! They continue to get things right! We are invited to visit and cheek her out so that will be fun. This is not a great photo but you get the idea. She was named Cochise. Homeless our friends on the red boat are headed for and about to arrive in Vanuatu by now.

And still we wait! Has not been a suitable window for us yet. May have gone on one or two openings by they provided for a glimpse of decent conditions then a heap of crap. Window? More like a peep hole. We are not in that kind of a rush but anytime soon would be nice.

Looks like there may be a window next week. All projects complete and boat is in great shape for passage. Some provisioning then stage down at Marsden Cove. Will be nice to be at sea again.

Still here in Whangarei, no window so far and not for a week or so by the look of things. Frost on the docks this morning. All boat chores completed, we are in great shape and can even socialize a little while we wait and provision. Huge grocery store very near by makes it an easy provision job. Photo of frost on the docks. The red boat is SV Homeless a 27 footer sailed from Finland by a 30 year old couple over the past few years. We met them in Tonga and have crossed paths several times in the past year and a half and finally had them over for happies and appies this week. They are headed to Asia when weather permits. Cool people as with most we meet out here.

Just about finished everything on the list thanks to a spell of nice weather. Shifting in to window shopping mode next few days. Weather window that is. No rush by the look of what's coming. A casual provisioning pace will be nice. Dark and rain today with a good breeze to make it real winter.

Haul out done, now in Town Basin Marina, finishing up and about to start provisioning up for the winter. All good. May be a couple more weeks before departure, good thing we have a great heating system.

Still in Marsden Cove Marina. Many projects complete, weather has been wet and windy, most yachts have departed for the warm. We are a couple more weeks then look for a suitable window.

A-TRAIN crew back aboard preparations underway for departure to the tropics. Glad to be back in NZ but it is getting colder.