Brrrrrrrr......

Back on our mooring off the Quarantine dock at Opua. Another Oyster clearing in this morning, 2 yesterday, stacks in the marina. Great to see so many of these awesome vessels around. Sonya starts work on Wednesday, back to the real world.

arrived at midnight. To a new government.

An annoying night as the forecast SE change happened at 5 am not before midnight as expected. Had 15-20 SSW(straight out of Opua) till then. Away again now and it is the first time on the whole trip we have not been close hauled!! Feels good despite the lumpy seas. 80 miles to go, should be arriving Opua early hours tomorrow morning. All well on board.

On starboard tack at present. Actually had some ok sailing from dark last night, not in the direction we wanna go but...

Motorsailing right now, will head in towards North Cape when the SE starts later today. When we near the cape the wind looks like it will go SW. If weather stays as our charts say should be in late fri- sat morning. All good on board.

Wind went round to the south about midnight last night but slackened off. There ended our 5 days of great sailing which we covered 800 miles. We are motoring the rhumb line while we can but will tack to the East when the wind rises later today. This last 250 to BOI might keep us busy till Friday night because of the wind direction. All good on board.

Finallly found problem with modem, had no weather files or mail on passage till last night. Been hard on wind for 4.5 days, done about or just over 150M each day. 360M to BOI so getting close but about to get head winds.

eta around 19-20Oct assuming some tacking!

AWOB

strong winds on departure but things have settled down now. Will be SE thru tomorrow then ESE so all good for a few days.

Have departed Vuda Marina heading for home!! Expect to be headed on approach to NZ so looking at arrival around 20th/21st.

Hauled out at Vuda Marina yesterday to antifoul. Feels like the holiday is over as we now start packing up boat for passage to NZ.

Back on the mooring at Musket Cove. Flat today so first day off surfing in a while. Got a few more days here before heading into Vuda area to start getting ready for the trip home.

At Musket cove on a mooring. Been here right through the regatta. Been lots of boats anchored so had a mooring as we have been going out to Nomotu surfing a lot in the mornings. 20 kt plus winds built during the day so windsurfing in the afternoons as well. Regatta was fun, really great final event last night at Dicks place, great pig on a spit meal and an excellent band.

At Musket Cove.

Still anchored Saweni bay, moving today.

Anchored at Saweni bay. Spend yesterday working on various repairs on the boat.

Were aboard Blowing Bubbles having drinks last night and had the the local hindus celebrating the end of their Ganesh Chaturthi festival on the beach. They then took a fairly large statue of the elephant god ganesh out into the bay by boat and threw it in. We had ringside seats....

Anchored off wailola, near Nadi Airport. Going to market today..

At Anchor off the airport at Nadi bay. Had a meal ashore last night with Chantelle crew Kelly and Leslie'(also from Nelson). Tarns last day, shes off to the airport soon.

Anchored at Momi Bay. Nice sail yesterday from Likuri with Patrick on Eagle Dancer. Anchored near him now.

Still anchored at Likuri Island, South West Viti Levu. Great snorkel yesterday, wind went down so we could dive outside the reef. Tarn saw her first shark, 4 turtles, a humphead wrass and a pretty big Walu. We dinghied up the nearby river and down a small tributary out to Natadola Bay for the afternoon.

Anchored at Likuri Island South West Viti Levu. Went in for dinner and the fire dancing last night at the resort. Dolphins escorted us into the harbour yesterday. Heading out for a look outside the reef today. Enjoying Tanias company on board.

At Musket cove. Great day snorkelling yesterday with Tania. Heading south to Likuri Island today for a couple of days.

Back at Musket enjoying the warm weather.

Had the morning at Nomotu island before coming into Denarau to drop off Tena, Scruff, Lara and Conner.

Daryls cousin Tania arrives tomorrow and is with us for a week.

Had the morning at Nomotu island before coming into Denarau to drop off Tena, Scruff, Lara and Conner.

Daryls cousin Tania arrives tomorrow and is with us for a week.

At musket cove, Lara making pancakes for breakfast, great to have crew on board. More snorkelling today and back to Denarau tomorrow night.

Keeping busy with our guest on board. Currently at Musket Cove.

Moored at Denarau Marina as guests arriving this evening.

Still at Likuri Harbour. Went for a dive outside the reef yesterday as the wind and swell were right down. Loads of turtles, got a big surprise to spend 5 minutes with a pretty big solitary manta. Also shot a nice 6 kg waloo for dinner. We had been planning yesterday on moving but spent another day on the beach instead. Moving towards Denarau today as we have visitors arriving Thursday.

Still anchored at Likuri Harbour, South West Viti Levu. Pretty windy yesterday so spent the day at the beach. 40 minutes to walk right around the island. Going to explore big creek flowing into the lagoon today, looks like we can follow it a long way..

Anchored off Likuri Island, South West Viti Levu. Stayed most of yesterday at Natadola beach before moving here yesterday afternoon. Sonya even went for a surf on the longboard at Natadola, one of the only places in Fiji the surfing is not on a coral bottom. Loads of kiwis were staying at the resort.

Had a drink in at the Likuri Island resort bar last night, the Barmaid remembered us from a previous visit 4 years ago. The resort has new owners since we were here but the original guy who set it up is visiting right now and we had a beer with him. He also set up Captain Cook Cruises.

Anchored off the huge Intercontinental Hotel at Natadola Harbour, south west Viti Levu. Nice sail along the coast yesterday.

Anchored at Vunanuiu Bay, Coral Coast of Viti Levu. Had good breeze yesterday as we left beqa but it died to about 5 knots from behind before we left the lagoon. Checked out the Pipes surf beak on Viti levu but was not working so motored on to this bay. Three Humpbacks were feeding in the entrance to the pass, could see the blows even after we anchored. Went for a big paddleboard up a river here in the lagoon last evening. Will carry on west today but very light again so might not get all the way around. Three surf breaks at the pass here so might have a quick surf before we move on.

Have departed Beqa Lagoon and sailing west at 5.8kts . Aiming for Momi Bay but may stop before there as wind lighter than forecast.

We have moved to Malumu Bay for the higher winds in the next couple of days. Did not want to leave Yanuutha island, another great dive there yesterday before we came down here last evening. 2 other boats in this bay which is generally pretty calm in strong winds but does get strong downflow gusts. We have been here before.

Spent most of yesterday in water, great clarity.

Ancored at Yanutha Island is Western part of Beqa lagoon. Little wind when we left yesterday so headed to Beqa as it was closest. Escorted by a pretty big group of dolphins (spinner?) for a while. Only boat here but there were a few daytrip dive/snorkel boats from Pacific Harbour here for an hour or 2 in the afternoon. Great snorkelling out at the reef and very user friendly as the dive companies have moorings on the good ones. Only 5 miles from the famous Frigates surf beak so going out for a look today.

Have had a great relaxed time in Suva, even made it to the movies yesterday evening. Were rushing around so much when we checked in here on arrival so we could leave to get out to the Lau group - was nice to not be rushed this time. Chores done, water topped off, fridge full so will leave soon this morning and in keeping with our life philosophy of "Indecision is the key to flexibility" will put the sails up and see what happens... Benga? Kandavu? Leluvia?

Made the most of a rare fine day in Suva yesterday and got all the laundry done. Rewarded with a few hours surfing afterwards. Surf break out at the entrance to the harbour is very good in favorable conditions.

Stopped at Moala but anchorage wasn't good in stronger winds so decided to keep going and sailed overnight to Suva. Just anchored. Had a good sail. Guess it was time to re-provision!! Will have a city fix during the stronger winds this week.

hove to waiting to go through the pass

Moved on from Yangasa Yesterday. Now anchored at Komo Island. Did Sevu Sevu yesterday, big village, 55 families. Small but pretty island with nice beaces. Sushi for dinner last night, got a good yellowfin tuna on the way.

Spent yesterday snorkeling and paddleboarding around this island. Went out to the inside edge of the barrier reef for a dive but the coral and fish life pretty poor in all the places we tried. Time to move on. Heading to Komo Island for a night or two.

Moved yesterday to another island in the Yangasa Group called Navutu-i-loma. Very pretty with a couple of nice beaches in a bay that's a little bit too shallow to go right into. Super yacht Big Fish and 2 other yachts came in after we moved here but with the southerly winds its pretty much the only sheltered spot in Yangasa. Villomee is right behind us. The diving is surprisingly not that flash around the islands, lots of blank rock, little coral and not so many fish. Did see whales inside the lagoon the day we arrived though. Will head out to the barrier reef for a look tomorrow.

Anchored off the west side of Yangasa Levu. Had a paddle around at Ongea yesterday morning before motoring in light winds to the Yangasa cluster of islands. 4 largish islands inside a barrier reef. Actually sailed as far as Fulanga before giving up but watched a huge Superyacht go in the pass there as we sailed past. A bit later we had a group of pilot whales right close to the boat so shut the engine down and sailed with them for a while.

Two other boats here but they are on the other side of one of the other islands and we cant see them. We are anchored off the cliffs near a Booby colony (gannets in trees??) Also hundreds of Frigates came in to roost just on dark last night right near us. Lightish winds today we hope as I plan on spending most of the day in the water. The water is incredibly clear and these islands are uninhabited so it should be good. No beaches this side of the island but a very scenic spot 100 meters off steep wooded cliffs.

Anchored at Ongea Levu Island. We finally dragged ourselves away from Fulanga. Had the last couple of nights back at Berras island so we could say our goodbyes. The government ship was hove too outside the entrance as we were leaving. The cheifs from each village and island headman were picked up, they are going to Suva for a big meeting. Tui navindavu (the navindavu cheif) is going to stay with his brother on Malalo island after the meeting so we have arranged to go visit him. The village he's staying in is near Musket cove and we will be there in a few weeks.

It was a nice 1 hour sail here yesterday from Fulanga. This place is very like Fulanga with the little mushroom islands. There is no atoll like barrier island though and we have a bit of movement at High tide. Will explore more tomorrow and if we like what we find might stay another day or two. Plan is to island hop back through the Southern Lau towards Gau and then around the south coast of Viti Levu towards Nadi.

Back at Berras island. Came down to navindavu for Sunday lunch with Sai and Poolo and the Ica boats had finally moved so we are "home"again. Good to see 2 of the boats I fixed from Mauni-i ra in the water. Wind is up so will do some chores on the boat today.

We have moved a couple of times in the last few days and are back at the sandspit. Our quiet little hideaway in the pacific started looking like Port Fitzroy on new years eve so we we reluctantly moved. We moved into the Mushroom islands near there, once again, incredible anchorage and blissfully alone. Spent the day before yesterday on the boat doing chores. Serviced the engine and we cleaned out a couple of lockers. The waste oil has gone to the village, they have 4 chainsaws and they use it as bar oil. The vesi trees are few and far between here now so a few guys at a time go over to Yangasa Cluster about 20 miles away and cut and rough shape the carvings. They stay there about 3 days then bring the rough cut(by chainsaw and they are incredibly skilled with these) Tanoa bowls back here for finishing. We went for a dive Wednesday no wind, clear skies and sooo close to my trophy tuna. Everything just right so let fly on a real big one to just miss and have it turn and swim 2 meters past me. I swear they know when the gun is not loaded.

However everything happens for a reason. We went to another spot and had been in the water a while when Sonya said she heard a blow. We looked up and there were two humpbacks which dived less than 150 meters from us. Part of a small group feeding right off the reef. Awesome. Days like this make it hard to leave pardise.

Anchored off Berras island. Went to a party in Navindavu on Friday. They put up a pretty large lean to building with poles and corrugated iron attached to Seta's house. His daughter was turning 21 and they celebrate this with a big party. Had a nice meal, they killed a pig and cooked a Lovo. Got home well after dark but the Kava drinkers were still going strong when we left. They actually started to run out so Lendua and Temo did a run across to the neighboring island of Ongea for more. There is no Kava left on Fulanga and the monthly supply ship doesn't come till Tuesday. Been diving most days, the swell came up a bit and had quite a good surf near the pass yesterday morning too. Our nice quiet anchorage changed when 5 yachts came and anchored here within an hour yesterday!!! I was out sailing on the windsurfer so it was a bit late to move by the time I came back. Most of them (ICA)are gone so hoping the rest will follow today so we don't need to move. This lagoon is huge and has so many stunning anchorages there seems little need to anchor next to another boat by itself.

Anchored off Berras island. Another typical day here yesterday. Was cloudy at first so did a few jobs. Did a bit of machine work on the shaft of a weed eater and it is now entering a new stage of life as a spear for a spear gun. Rigged it with line and Lendua and I are going out for a dive this morning. One ratty old gun in Navindavu so good that I can get it going again. Not too sure of the details but we are getting fish for a birthday party we are invited to this afternoon and evening.

The sun came out about mid day so we went out for snorkel at a nearby island, then I rigged up the windsurfer for the afternoon. Nowhere near as good here as the sandspit anchorage, choppy water and the islands here are higher so the wind not as constant. Once ICA leave we will go back up the other end when its windy.

Got another big day tomorrow. The boat that I fixed is coming around from the village on the other side and we are having a picnic on Berras island. They are going to put down a lovo as a thank you for the work I did. Think they are going to spend the night and we will do some cleanup in the small plantation here. Loving being back here, we are part of the village but being anchored way out here (berras is about 1.5 miles from Navindavu) we are not right in their faces as you often are anchored right off the village.

Still at Berras island. Stack of boats in the lagoon now as ICA have turned up. most still down the southern end but a few up this end now. Can actually see a few boats, (well masts) from where we are which is unusual.

The great weather continues and we have been out and dived the pass the last 2 days on the turn of the tide. Thats when the tuna are there. We had been diving the turn at high and not seen them but the low turn is when they are there in force. Haven't got one yet but just missed on a solid one yesterday. Would have been a village feeder!!! Tricky to get near as they are schooling and deep. The locals do not shoot them, they dont have they gear.

Well done to David on the cloud band moving in. We were interested to see how his models compared with the "Fulanga model". I saw a spotted eagle ray jump clear of the surface 3 times in a row about 100 meters from calypso the day before yesterday and was told by a friend in the village that this meant the weather will be good. However we now have 100% overcast and just had a shower go through. Perhaps the Eagle ray jumping model is only good for 24hrs, in which case it was right on the money...

I went in to Navindavu on Tuesday to fix a hole in a fibreglass water tank and ended up going to Muani-i-ra village to repair a hole in the bottom of Sai's niece's long boat. There are three longboats in the village, and all were turned turtle on land with holes in them. very dry, they had been there for weeks. They now have an operating fleet again thanks to fact we carry a small chandlery aboard.

Still at Berras island. The big boat left the day before yesterday and we have the place to ourselves, paradise. Moved in a little closer to the beach , we had initially anchored a ways out because the other boat was here. The wind has been up a bit but we went out for a shoot day before yesterday to get fish for Poolo to cook for Sunday lunch. I took the chance to get some fish we don't normally have. One was Boxfish, a crazy looking thing that I would never think to get for our meal. I knew they call them sea chicken and was keen to try it. No internal bones but the bones are like a shell that is rectangular. Anyway she curried it and you would swear it was chicken. Delicious. Also got one of Poolos favorites, Yellow unicorn fish, also really delicious cooked in Lolo(coconut milk.) Rest of the meal simple but delicious out of the Lovo (fijian Hangi) casava, kumala... Spent most of yesterday in the village with Sai and Poolo.

The google guys huge superyacht Dragonfly has been anchored at Onegea which is the closest island to here, just 6 miles SE. They have had a floatplane visit a couple of times, guess they have not run out of fresh food like us...Cant see it on AIS this morning so they might have left.

Moved the boat and now anchored at Berras Island near Navindavu village. Really pretty anchorage, we spent a lot of time here last visit. Wonderful beach and we we are at the western end of our own magic sliver of sandspit beach between a couple of mushrooms islands that disapears at high tide. There used to be a nice old man live here alone (Berra), Sai's brother in law but he passed away two years ago and the islands now uninhabited. We will go over to Navindavu and do Sevu Sevu this afternoon and Sai asked me to get fish for tomorrows lunch. The other boat is still here, a 70 foot luxury charter boat from NZ that is on an extended charter to Tonga Fiji and Vanuatu with one couple as customers!!!

Same same here. Still at sandspit but don't have the place to ourselves any more. 3 big beneteaus near us now, ICA boats starting to turn up. About 10 boats are now in this anchorage. time to move... Another nice dive at the pass yesterday, not sure if it changing tides but saw lots of Dogtooth Tuna yesterday of course, it was the first time I didn't have the gun. In the afternoon I went for a big sail on the board down to Navindavu village. Great to see Sai and Lendua. They were pretty surprised to see me. There is still a boat anchored at Beras island, we have been waiting for them to leave but we are thinking of going down today anyway as we are invited to the village for lunch and a kava session on Sat and Sunday. My sail back was interesting, almost 4 miles directly to windward on a slalom board with no centerboard, took over an hour. Very scenic though as tacked right across the lagoon through all the mushroom islands 4 times.

Great to be back here in Fulanga, it really is amazing. Went for a big ride in the dinghy day before yesterday around the SE corner of the outer lagoon, snorkelling at bommies along the way. Then went out the pass and had a short dive outside the reef. Daryl then spent the afternoon windsurfing around through all the little islands. Saturday we did sevu sevu at the village. Did not do it Sunday as they would have been busy with church and family. Yesterday was spent celebrating with the other Kiwi yachts in the anchorage along with some more snorkelling and windsurfing!!!

OOPS, We have crossed the date line 5 times in the last three weeks and now I am just getting confused!!!Arrived off Fulanga about 11am this morning after a rainy overnight trip with light head winds most of the way. Thought we were going to be tasked with heading down to a small island 100 miles south of Matuku by NZ rescue co ordination center just as we were about to leave yesterday but they sent Villomee who were on passage near Matuku instead. They got about 1/3 of the way there before being stood down and we both arrived here at the same time this morning. Had to wait a couple of hours for the tide to slacken to get in the pass as we were a bit earlier than we planned. Have anchored somewhere we dont normally anchor. This is the sandspit anchorage and is normally too crowded for our liking but just two of us here tonight. FreebirdII from Opua anchored not to far away too. Got a Mahi Mahi this morning.

Arrived off Fulanga about 11am this morning after a rainy overnight trip with light head winds most of the way. Thought we were going to be tasked with heading down to a small island 100 miles south of Matuku by NZ rescue co ordination center just as we were about to leave yesterday but they sent Villomee who were on passage near Matuku instead. They got about 1/3 of the way there before being stood down and we both arrived here at the same time this morning. Had to wait a couple of hours for the tide to slacken to get in the pass as we were a bit earlier than we planned. Have anchored somewhere we dont normally anchor. This is the sandspit anchorage and is normally too crowded for our liking but just two of us here tonight. FreebirdII from Opua anchored not to far away too. Got a Mahi Mahi this morning.

Will likely meet up with Villamee at the Fuluga Pass!

Last day at Lomanchi, most likely heading to Fulanga overnight tonight. Went out for a shoot yesterday afternoon with Jesse, modified one of my old spears and got his gun going again.

Still anchored inside the crater at Lomanchi village. Spent all yesterday in the water. Surfed in the morning then checked out about a 2 mile stretch of the western side outer reef. some really interesting terrain here. Only saw one big pelagic, a tuna. Still good numbers of the giant Humphead wrasse, saw my largest yet up real close. Heaps of turtles. Bought Jesse and his youngest Paul to the boat for afternoon tea, we are trying to get his old speargun going again.

Wind eased so we did not need to move. Spent a couple of hours surfing so getting fitter. wind down today so waves should be better.

Wind has swung into east and had a night with not much sleep. Will have to move to another part of harbour as really strong bullets hitting us here. Forecast also changed so our nice sail now might be a motor into the wind. Damn, might change our plans. Went for a dive yesterday, still loads of good sized fish here but didnt see any Tuna or Walu. Lots more spearfishing here now and they are using torches at night so will start to take its toll. we had a nice trout for dinner last night.

Still at Matuku. Had a great surf day before yesterday. The irony is in western fiji you are always trying to get the breaks to yourself. Here I wish there was someone to surf with. Amazing waves but scary. The big left hander in front of Makudru is awesome. I didnt go in by myself. Mainly surfing the short right hander north side of the pass. We had Sunday lunch in the village yesterday. No surfing as they don't do anything on Sunday so we do the same. Heading out surfing today and also to see if there are still Tuna at my favorite spearfishing spot. We finally started getting the strong winds that were forecast night before last, had really only had moderate trades previous few days. Looks good for a nice easy sail the last hundred to Fulanga in a couple of days.

Couple of heavy showers overnight and yesterday afternoon. Sevu Sevu yesterday and caught up with Jaycee. Think we are going around to the school village in the longboat this morning to see his son Johnny, hes on school camp. We are the first yacht in here this season.

Departed Totoya yesterday morning and shaped up on Fulunga as the wind looked less and more to the South than forecast. Was about 15 knots in the open water but would still have been tacking to get there so cracked off and had a great sail to Matuku. Got a Mahi Mahi for the village and a nice tuna for us on the way. Crossed the date line again as Matuku a bit West of Totoya. Had forgotten how amazing this island is. Big clean waves peeling on both sides of the pass in had one of the crew very excited... Chico the chief (well his brother is chief but lives in Suva) spent a couple of hours on the boat with us catching us up on all the gossip. The ferry arrived in last evening, comes twice a month now,and will be unloading at first light. It left Moala yeterday first light , we passed it coming in the pass at Totoya. Long trip for the passengers to Suva!!! Anchorage very protected so not sure what wind like outside.

Matuku. Absolutely lovely and great catching up with folk they met last time

Spent most of yesterday in the water. Nice surf out at the pass, punchy little left hander. Then checked out the reefs. Nice coral in this bay but obviously fished harder the neighboring island of Matuku. Great to be in warm clear water again.

Still anchored on west side Totoya Island. Went in to the village yesterday. Approx 2 mile walk. Village on inside of crater. 4 villages on the island. Anchored at a beautiful beach.

Going ashore today at Totoia which is beautiful. had a little roll until the wind backed a bit

S Lau Totoia

Anchored on west side Totoya Island. Really nice overnight sail in 20 knot Southerly. Only snag was engine a no go when we got here. Hove to and found the fuel stop solenoid is fried. Got a spare so will change here. Beautiful anchorage.

Went to the market this morning to stock up on kava and vege's. Trade winds coming in day after tomorrow so going to sail overnight to Totoya Is in the Moala Group. Will be there until winds favourable to sail to Falanga.

Have refueled so are all ready to go!!! Enjoying being back in Suva. Have the usual 153m oil tanker anchored next to us as well as a few cruising yachts. We had a good trip from Minerva and was great to finally stretch Calypso's legs with a bit of breeze.

Just about to anchor in Suva harbour

Postion at 6am. Slow progress in DDW conditions. We are going to check in at Suva and have about 150 to run.

slow now but had a good sail from yesterday afternoon

Moved anchorage before the front. It passed us at midnight. Got in the water outside the reef yesterday, wow...Huge fish. Might build a house here, oh hang on....

a big group at S Minerva so very social, They arrived yesterday afternoon

Safely anchored at Sth Minerva. Enjoying the quiet after all that motoring. Still have plenty of diesel though so thinking of auctioning it off to the highest bidder. Will stay here until favourable winds to Savusavu. Currently 17 boats anchored at Sth Minerva

going into S Minerva today

booming signal today. Radio conditions good

all well. Hard to hear Sonya today as no short skip.

Sailed all day yesterday but had to put the motor on last night when the wind went light. All OK.

Underway to Savu Savu Fiji. Good first night , had a hot meal and both slept well. can see 3 sails this morning.

Back on our mooring. Ready for departure for Fiji tomorrow morning.

Anchored at Honeymoon Bay.

Anchored at Paradise Bay.

Anchored at Pipi Bay. Too much uncertainty with the lows to the north to leave yesterday. Hanging in the Bay for the next opportunity.

All ready to go, but still not happy with the weather.

Anchored at Otaio Bay. All ready to go, just waiting for weather to head to Fiji.

Testing our Sailmail updates to make sure we remember how it all works!!

Anchored Otaio Bay

Have both finished work as of yesterday so now into full boat preparation mode. Hoping to be away mid-May.